'69 124 Spider with a hard starting issue

[GP69124SPORT]

the first batch of ignitions is coming in Friday, so I'll be waiting by the phone
Just out of curiosity, have you taken a compression test? Since you say it runs well after starting I doubt the compression is low, but I'm interested to hear what it is

I'll try to get down to the hanger today and see if I can get the starter to engage, then do the compression test. I'll post the findings as soon as I can get the test done.

[GP69124SPORT]

Are the advance weights and springs rotating like they should in the distributor? If not, it might behave like you are saying: You are changing the advance as you rotate the distributor back and forth, The internal weights and springs should do that automatically. Check to see that they aren't rusted in one fixed position.

Alvon

I wondered about that myself. They move freely, but what i was suspicious about was how hard the rotor screwed down into place. I know. Square hole, round hole, so I didn't put it on incorrectly, it just seem to fit a bit snug. Could be interferring with the weight and spring movements. That's another thing I'll need to check today if I get time. I have a used distributor on it's way from Calif. Should be here today or tomorrow I would think. If the starter was working, I could possibly solve this mystery soon.

[majicwrench]

Wow.

Opening your book would be a good first start. Then.....

Get it cranking, first things first.

See if it has spark at spark plugs

If it does, align all marks, books are good for this.

Check for fuel in carb, spraying when moving throttle.

It should now run.

I WOULD NOT recommend taking the "replace everything" approach.

Your distributor weights are NOT the problem.

Might be intereesting to see what compression is, but is totally a waste of time IF you don't have spark, fuel, and timing marks all lined up. First things first,

Get it cranking

See if it has spark...

This is not rocket science.

[GP69124SPORT]

Wow.

Opening your book would be a good first start. Then.....

Get it cranking, first things first.

See if it has spark at spark plugs

If it does, align all marks, books are good for this.

Check for fuel in carb, spraying when moving throttle.

It should now run.

I WOULD NOT recommend taking the "replace everything" approach.

Your distributor weights are NOT the problem.

Might be intereesting to see what compression is, but is totally a waste of time IF you don't have spark, fuel, and timing marks all lined up. First things first,

Get it cranking

See if it has spark...

This is not rocket science.

WOW, Seriously? Did you even read ANYTHING I've written? Reading what someone's written before offering advice would be a good start. I totally retimed an 1800 and had it running... and btw, it was sitting on a pallet. I think I understand it's not rocket science. Oh, and I did it without opening the book...

[greaseguncutts]

Hello all, I am Mike, I am new here. I have taken over the 69 Spider. I now have it in my garage. It now starts pretty quickly as long as i operate the choke proplery. What i had to do is bypass the ballast resistor. After i did that the Engine started and ran just fine. Now I just need to get it on some new tires and renew all the suspension bushings. Just figured i would let all of you that offered advise the info.

[ventura ace]

Thanks for the feedback, Mike. We were wondering the outcome, so now we know. Isn't it great to work on an engine devoid of all the modern electronics and computers?! It makes troubleshooting a little simpler. Wishing you good success with the rest of the improvements!

Alvon

[So Cal Mark]

fwiw, running without a ballast resistor will shorten the life of the points dramatically. It's fine to do that during troubleshooting, but I'd replace it before planning on using the car much

[greaseguncutts]

Yes I know. I am currently deciding if i want to fork out the cash for Electronic Ignition system or just leave it the way it is. I am not driving the car yet as I can still see the air in the tires through what used to be rubber. I will probably just keep it as is for now and replace the resistor and coil together.