New engine issues

[digitech]

I like the sound of that Loctite 515, I'll look for it. As I said, this is a frustrating area for leaks.

Jason, I really hope it's not the flywheel - easy fix, not so easy to actually do. My memory is not what it used to be but I seem to have a recollection of using a small prybar to jam the teeth and tighten the bolts. As you can see from any close-up pics of my engine, I've been putting small dabs of red paint on each bolt/nut as I torque them so I don't forget what I've done and what still needs tightening.

Unfortunately, I can't see the flywheel - can you think of a way to check it? Use a prybar and check for any movement?

[pastaroni34]

You really can't check it without removing the clutch. I doubt it is the issue though.

Your clicking noise would be coming from that area though, easy to tell if you listen down there. Where on the engine is your clicking noise coming from?

Leaking exhaust can also sound like clicking, especially if it is only one port that is leaking.

[digitech]

It'll be a couple of days before I can have another go at it - got the camboxes off in order to fix the leaks. I may try the video route when I get it back together. It might be that some sound will help with the troubleshooting.

[digitech]

I was able to get the camboxes removed Friday and the old gasket/sealer removed - what a job! I just don't see how it was leaking, my gaskets split neatly in half upon removal and I had a heck of a time getting the surfaces cleaned.

Couldn't find the Loctite 515 so I got Permatex Form-a-gasket #2 and reinstalled new gaskets. I made some shim adjustments on the 2 too tight intakes, inspected everything including laying a straightedge across both camboxes - they were flat. Couldn't check the head surfaces very well but it's a newly machined head so...

Got it back together yesterday, swapping the heater hoses ( see which hose?), re-checked valve clearances and just as it was getting dark, started the engine. The noise seemed much better at idle, barely noticeable, just a light mechanical noise I associate with this type of valvetrain. However, revving the engine brings the clacking back, quite noticeable! And it sounds like valves to me. Referring to another recent post, I'm starting to wonder about bent valves; it's possible I could have accidently bent some while setting initial valve clearances on the bench. Would bent valves give me this issue?

To add insult to injury, the exhaust cambox still leaks, in the same spot! The intake appears to be sealed. And, the timing belt still walks to the rear of the pulleys. I will get some pics posted this evening, maybe somebody will come up with some ideas.

Thanks, the help is greatly appreciated.

[digitech]

Here are the pics showing the leaking area on the cambox and where my timing belt winds up after running the engine.

[So Cal Mark]

it looks like your aux pulley is plastic and has some wear on the teeth

[digitech]

Thanks Mark, I will replace that Aux sprocket. It was pointed out to be from the photos that the exhaust sprocket is actually leading the intake and when I went back out and took another look at it, I measured a 1/4" difference. It also appears the sprocket, for whatever reason, didn't fully seat so I will need to remove it and determine why. Don't know how I didn't see this!

Now, if I can just clear up the "clatter" noise I have while revving the engine - pinging perhaps??

[fiatfactory]

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[digitech]

Had a few minutes today so I ran a compression check. I got a 130 psi on all cylinders except #2 where I had 135. These seem to be a bit on the low side aren't they?

I should be able to check out the exhaust sprocket tomorrow and see what's up with that.

[majicwrench]

Those compression readings are just fine. What you are really looking for is big differences tween cylinders.

[digitech]

Yeah, I knew to look at the variance but I thought the numbers were low; I'm used to Honda 4 cylinders reading around 150.
Thanks for the reassurance.

[digitech]

Okay, I've been able to speand a bit more time on the engine but at this point it's still more questions than answers. Turns out, the exhaust sprocket is not leading the intake, its actually 1/4" wider and that's why they didn't line up across the front; they are very close across the rear with maybe a touch of skew on the exhaust, a few thousands maybe? I have been told this can cause the belt to walk so I will try to eliminate it.

Although the exhaust cambox is very.very close to the manifold, it isn't caught up on it, there is a slight gap there. I cannot for the life of me say why it continues to leak and now it appears the intake may have begun to leak again as well. I have looked at various Permatex products and I am tempted to try the "Right Stuff" product but it is not meant to be used with a gasket. For the sake of setting the valve clearances, I would not want to eliminate the gasket so I am of a mind to give the Ultra Black RTV a go. Any other suggestions?

On another but related note, this whole cam timing thing worries me a bit. I have read on some other sites that incorrect cam timing can produce "clicking" noises - I would assume from the valves being slightly out of time with respect to piston movement, causing contact between the two. Could this be my issue? I have higher compression pistons installed, with maybe 2mm domes and the popular 40-80,80-40 cams, standard valves.

I have also read it is perhaps better to leave the original cam in the exhaust and use the 80-40 in the intake. I am tempted to ry this since I have to remove the blasted cambox again anyway. If cam timing - piston/valve contact - noise is what I'm hearing, this would cut it by half and prove the case. Is it better to use the original exhaust cam?

I am really going to hate it if that engine has to be pulled yet again!! And more money spent on it!!!! Help!

[digitech]

So I'm still wondering about this. Over the Christmas holidays, I'm planning on pulling the head to ensure all is okay inside of the engine and to see if I can determine why the camboxes leak.

Performance wise, is it a good idea to re-install the original exhaust cam and leave the 40-80 on the intake?

[ventura ace]

I have a few questions / coments:
What is the valve shim clearance for your cams? Are they regrinds or billets? A regrind 40-80 camshaft may have a recommended clearance of .010 - .012". Shimming to normal clearances of around .018" would miss the ramps and maybe cause clacking.

Why are you running 40-80 cams? What is the calculated compression ratio for your engine, based on the measurements of all the components? It seems to me that overlap of the 40-80 cams is resulting in a low compression. Maybe standard cams would be better for your engine set-up.

When you installed and removed the cam towers did you progressively install and remove the bolts in a way to keep the towers fairly parallel to their mating surfaces of the head? This is important. If you torque one end down while the other end is held up by valve springs, it can warp or damage the mating surfaces, and end up with leaks.

I use cam tower gaskets with a silicone bead built into the surface (available from Guy Croft in the UK), and have been pleased with how they seal. Prior to using these gaskets, I was pretty frustrated with leaks, as you are.

It's normal for the timing belt to move to the front guide or rear guide (mine goes against the front guide. As long as it's not chewing up the belt, I wouldn't worry about it.

Your engine looks very clean. I can see that you put a lot of effort into this project. Sorry to hear that you're having all the troubles. Keep at it, and you'll figure it out. Give me a call if you want to discuss any of these comments in more detail.

Alvon
805-338-1767

[majicwrench]

Cam Box leaks....looks to me in the pictures that there is sealer of some sort oozing out around the gasket. Overuse of sealer can cause leaks. If you insist on using sealer, the surfaces have to be CLEAN AND OIL FREE or sealer just makes it worse. Clean with a brakeclean product or something similiar. Just wiping it off will not get it clean enough.Silicone will not stick at all to an oily surface. THis is a nice, flat machined surface on the head and a nice, flat machined surface on the cam box. The gasket alone should do a reasonalbly good job of sealing it.
Gaskets with that built in silicone bead are a wonderful invention.
Good luck
Keith