1980 124 spider F.I. barn find

[spider2081]

I found there is a difference in impact guns. A better brand like Mac or Snap-on seem to have more power than others. Also I found cranking up the air pressure to about 120 PSI helps a lot.

Good Luck

[doc18015]

I finished putting it together and tried to start it. No go! After, looking at the fuel pump and finding no fuel delivery, I then checked the pump on the car by hooking another battery to it direct....it pumped nicely. Checked the wires w/the key on w/voltmeter and came up w/9.2 volts. Started cleaning all the grounds and seemed to have worked. Will check again today. The bad news is the car runs poorly and starts hard. After thinking about the timing belt install, we will have to recheck the camshafts timing. I am told that if off one tooth the car will run poorly. The camshaft timing was the only place for error. It is difficult to align the pointers dead nuts on w/the hood on ( cannot get perfect head on view). Long hard road ! Will report as we found more. Anyone figure how to slip the timing belt on easily??

Any suggestions always needed and appreciated.

[narfire]

The cam wheels have a hole that also lines up with a raised "ridge" on the cam towers. Take a look at the backside and you should notice them. I just did this on Monday with a FI car. I put the belt on the exhaust wheel and clamped it with one of those wood clamps with plastic protectors. Then the intake side down to the aux wheel and then the fun began. I had the car at TDC and when I put the belt onto the crank and then slid it over the tensioner wheel (spring off),everything tightened up and the crank was no longet at tdc. After a few attemps at this figured it out and got the belt on with all the marks just right. Remember the aux wheel has a hole as well and should be positioned at the 1 oclock position,unless you have cut the lobe off the end. If you hav'nt done so, perhaps put a dab of white paint onto the crank marker and the pointer to help with seeing the marks when timing.
One tooth out on the cams,the car will run but I noticed a difference in power(al-be-it small) compared to everything lined up just right.

[doc18015]

Back on it last night! Put the belt on 2x and both times the camshaft gears moved. Decided to clamp both down. Worked in holding the cams but still a pain to gret the belt on. The belt is on but have learned that a sequence when followed works Ok.....not great. Must start @ the crank, go anti-clockwise to the aux. cog (make sure it is at 1:00 PM); next to the intake cam, then the exhaust cam (make sure the holes on each are lined up w/the arrows or cam followers) ....ALWAYS MAKING SURE THE TEETH ARE LOCKED IN AT EACH COG/Gear...VERY IMPORTANT as this allows the belt to reach its max. length........then, using a long pry bar or screw driver,pry back on the tensioner and try to slip the belt over the tensioner pulley. Very tight but doable.

[doc18015]

Thanks Narfire for your comments....very helpful! Well, she is able to run , but smokes up a storm. Black smoke. Pulled the plugs and found all sooted up (light dry ...rich gas). This is F. I. so where do I start? Should add, that I ran the car only a few minutes with the air cleaner and air box off the engine.

[doc18015]

After putting the airbox on, ran good but has high idle ( approx. 1200-1400 RPM). Also now has noise sounds like belt . I replaced the alternator belt and the water pump. Put on a set of sethoscopes ....sounds like the alternator.

Have to start on the electrical issues also. No turn signals, gas gauge intermittant, no hazard warning light.

BTW.....how does one use spell check?????