Help with rusted front spring mount / shock towers

[azygoustoyou]

I really dont know why I keep pouring money into this car as everything needs total attention when I touch it but I dont have too much more to touch so what to do? I think Ill be selling it soon to put towards buying my condo and Fiat #6 will have to be in better shape when I start.

I wanted to update that thanks to Denise I got the replacement shock towers in. There was rust in the frame rail when the old ones were removed which I suspected. It was replaced with good metal and button up. I had to have a friend help with some spot welding as I wasnt 100% pleased with the body shop end results. It also destroyed the paint inside as to be expected. Once some of the high welds were ground down I bondo the inside for a smoother look, seam sealed the outside and under coated.

It also got all new control arms, new shocks, tie rods, center link, re oiled the idler, new wheel bearings and seals. I cut a coil off to lower it a bit for the small split bumpers I am making for it. Im hoping to get $2500 -2800 for her as I also put in a Nardi Wheel to make her driving a bit more pleasurable.

Old towers removed:





Cut out rust and treat:




Denise's panels that I separated and added my own drain holes. The rust comes from those pocket channels you see on the inside. I believe the water enters in from the recess on the bump stop pocket and creeps into the channels to rust from the middle out. I added drain holes to the bump stop pocket and the inside of the shock tower. They should outlast the car now!




The new panels in place and finish work with some touch up:






Some bondo and paint:






Nardi:

Hi Slospider,
That's a really good side view of the inside of the rail. Hopefully you spot welded the bolts that hold on the crossmember. You don't want to have to go back in there just because they start spinning.

[SLOSpider]

Those green shock towers came out of a 76 I cut up. I sold them to Denise for her Lemons racer, I hope she gave you a good deal. I'm glad to see the sad death of one spider helped bring another one back from the dead. The floor pans went to Chris "Rook" for his rolling restoration.

She gave me a great deal...same you made her It really helped me decided to do it rather than junk the car, but then I still question myself on what am I thinking!. Thanks Matt for you work in saving those good parts and to Denise for letting them go!

[SLOSpider]

Well done. I have a 72 that needs the same treatment... interested?
Thanks for the pics. Did you use a spotweld drill bit to break the welds?
With some welding lessons I might give it a go this winter.
I like the steering wheel. Great job, another "save"

I drilled out the replacement panels with a regular drill. I did buy some spot weld cutters from Harbor Freight and they are a bit tricky to use. I figured the guys at the body shop would be able to do a better job than I could at removing the ones on the car. I hate it when I have to fix someone else's mess so I left it to them. After seeing what they did when they removed them I think I could have done a much better job but oh well. Its hard to find workers that will take care of your property like its their own and have a bit of pride in their finish work. The metal is so thin that its hard to just cut through the ban panel and not the inside fender apron.

[SLOSpider]

You know I did not mention to tack those bolts in place although it would have been a good Idea. Im sure that this car will be long gone before I have to remove those bolts....crossing fingers.....

[james124]

Good job at saving a nice car. You proved without a doubt that the shock towers are changeable. Thanks for the pics.

[BEEK]

it still amazes me to see original hoses still in use on a 75+/- spider 35 years old and still going, where do you find that quality ! the vent lines and some of the vac lines, in the shock tower pictures

[SLOSpider]

Yes those two evap canister lines are OE and I just cut off one of the ends today to hook it back up. They are the last 2 hoses I need to replace. Got to drive it about 100 miles so far so good. It sputters sometimes so I came back and blew air down the carb intake jests and tighten down the carb. Ran fine till I tach it through the gears then started to act up again surging. Saw a show then did fine after except every so often it would shutter so I think there is something floating around in the carb bowl Ill have to check out. Fix a nasty squeak left front caused by the new upper bushings. Loosen the top bolt and coated the inside and outside of the bushing with spray lithium grease and all is quiet now. Thanks for the replies!