Sound proofing/ heat shielding

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 2:09 pm

I know some of you have removed the old tar like sound proofing from your floor boards. What did you replace it with? I've heard that some people have used "ice and water shield" which is a roofing product used as flashing or patching. It's very similar in composition to Dynamat, which is too expensive.

The ice and water shield contains ashpalt, and so does the dynamat, I can assume that when heated (above the Catalytic converter) it will start to smell pretty bad. Does anyone have any suggestions, or products that might be readily available.

I plan on putting automotive soundproofing/ carpet underlayment ( old style jute) under the carpet. The jute is pretty fire resistant, but I would like to put something under the underlayment to absorb/disipate heat.

The last thing I want is a sportscar that smells like a bucket of tar.

thanks

Matt Scarton

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 3:55 pm

except around the tranny tunnel, you should not be getting that much heat, matt. even that heat should be in the tolerable range.

if you're experiencing too much heat, are you sure your heater control valve is shutting all the way off?

i just used thick carpet padding. unless you're spilling mass quantities of liquid refreshment inside your cockpit, why the need for petroleum products?

is there a heat shield in place above your cat under the floor board? if not, try replacing that thing. Are you sure the cat is not plugged? if it is, it will produce excess heat as well.

i guess what i am saying is, too much carpet padding only hides the root cause of the issue.

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 5:06 pm

Right now I have all the interior out: center console, seats, carpet, origional soundproofing etc. My Cat. Converter looks pretty new, not the origional one, but unshure of its condition. There is a heat shield between the converter and the body, I may place an aluminum sheet in there to further disipate heat. The other day while tuning the engine (only had it running for 5 min or so) I touched the floorboard above the cat. converter and it was HOT. Not hot enough to burn, but you may be able to cook an egg. I'm shure it seems hotter because the underlayment/insullation/soundproofing is not there, but I have a black interior, and I live in a tropical climate. Although I like hot women, I dont want those pretty lady passengerrs to be uncomfortable.

thanks

Matt

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:25 pm

we certainly can't have that (too hot women).

i don't know how to proceed. i do know cats can go bad.

does law require you to keep one on the car? Bruce sells a 'test' pipe.

and, you should put some kind of padding down under the carpet. might as well be heat reflective.

I just was attempting to advise NOT to mask or hide a problem. the true issue never seems to go away when one attempts that.

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:51 pm

Hey Mike

How's it going in Coldwater? Any winter projects? Hawaii does not have emissions regs, so I might try the test pipe. How much does IAP want for one of those? I just bought a welder and might try to make one, the hardest part would be making the three hole flanges. I guess I could find an old cat and cut the flanges off of that. I'm shure a muffler shop might have some old cats I could butcher.

Matt

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:10 pm

cats typically run at 600F or hotter. Failed cats are due to overheating, caused by unburned fuel getting to the cat via a misfire or overly rich condition. Once a cat fails and melts down you will experience a drastic loss of power and hardly any exhaust flow out the tailpipe

manoa matt · Post by **manoa matt** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 6:26 pm

Thanks Mark

I will test it this weekend with a non contact laser thermometer. If I replace my cat with a test pipe, will i have a louder exhaust, or no noticeable difference? Do you, or anybody you know have an old cat that you could cut the three hole flanges off? I probably have some parts that you might be intestered in for a trade.

thanks

Matt Scarton

mbouse · Post by **mbouse** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:45 pm

send me an email and we will discuss that pipe.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 1:59 am

I don't have any of the oem cats or flanges

pastaroni · Post by **pastaroni** » Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:52 am

I have made both 3 and 4 bolt flanges, and also fully assembled test pipes. If you can't find one I could make one easily, I just need to order some more exhaust tubing to do so.

Mark_vaughn · Post by **Mark_vaughn** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:05 am

Here's my 2 cents, that may only be worth a penny.

I took all the original carpet and pad out, cleaned and painted the floor pans. I used aluminum clad bubble wrap from the insulation area at Home Depot. It cuts and forms easy and used spray on glue to attach it. Then I put carpet on top.
It works well for heat. Doesn't do too much for the noise, but then it is a convertable.

I get most of the heat from the transmission tunnel. There is only so much you can do about that.

Mark

Fixitoni · Post by **Fixitoni** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 3:40 pm

Have used some expensive foil-clad stuff that works great but thick, and 90.00 a roll. Thought it was called cool-a-car, but can't find it now. Lizard Skin (tradename) is supposed to be very good and much thinner, spray-on. Have not tried it yet.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:22 pm

I just replaced mine with the conventional juke pad but I also installed it on the tranny tunnel, under the lower console. I don't have a heat or road/drivetrain noise problem.

racydave · Post by **racydave** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:56 pm

Most of my heat problems are related to the shifter inner boot. Will need one before next road trip!