Help bring my 81 Spider back to life.

[JoeRealtor]

So she ran great, then I deployed with the Army. When I got back she started right up. Took her for a drive and she just died. I have spark and fuel to the FI's. She cranks, just will not start. Just befor the deployment I put a new timing belt on. After troubleshooting everything I could think of, I checked the cam pullies and can not get the holes to line up together with the notches. When one lines up the other is about 2 inches off with the #4 at its highes point. Could this keep it from starting and what would make the timing jump like that? Can I just loosen the belt and move the cams back into place or is there something else I need to do?

Joe Pomales
Fayetteville, NC

[brunorahl]

Cam timing could be the trouble. A 2.0 motor wasn't interference from the factory, so you may be able to reset and get going again.

Finding why it jumped timing would be a smart idea. Could be too much slack in the belt. The best bet would be to replace the belt and tensioner bearing. With the belt off, inspect the 3 large gears and the small crank gear for signs of wear. It is common for them to wear and small teeth would allow slightly loose belt to jump teeth easily.

[narfire]

I figure you'll have to get the engine at TDC. I'd pull all the plugs and turn the engine by hand and when the lower crank mark is lined up with the pointer just below the water pump, take a look at the cam marks. Do you have a manual,?
Take the old belt off and after getting the cams lined up with the marks, I'd put a new belt on and tension properly.
Make sure the dist rotor is about to come into contact with #4 pin. Remember to line up the aux. shaft (mark at 1 o'clock)if you still have the lobe on the end of the aux. shaft.
I'd think the cams being that far out could prevent compression developing and then no run.Others I hope would chime in here.
Reasons... not tensioned properly maybe. Oil seeped onto the belt after sitting and slipped while out on its first drive?
( tip my hat at all that serve in the forces)
Good luck

[JoeRealtor]

So, how can I tell if my crank shaft is broken. A buddy informed me that they sometimes break when the timing belt slips.

[So Cal Mark]

I've only seen 1 broken crank in a Fiat, and the engine still ran fine. It just had a knock

[JoeRealtor]

Update:
Ok, pulled old timing belt and nothing was lined up right. Still not sure why it jumped. The tensioner bolt might have been alittle loose, but I am unsure if that was enough to do it. Should have it back together tomorrow as long as I don't break any bolt's. Need to tap one out in the morning, uggg!

[JoeRealtor]

Ok, so I have finished with the new timing belt and it sound much better when it turns over. But, does not start. Guess what, no power to coil. In fact, the oil light and ex gas light does not light up when key turned to on position. Oh, and the hazard light do not work and I had them on just last night. Had power before I changed timing belt. checked all fuses (including 3 inline under dash), changed out duel relay with an extra. Even changed out ecu with an extra one I have. NOTHING. So, after crying in the corner for 15 minutes I have come to all of you. What am I missing. I am going back to the corner and cry some more as I await any replies.

[jimincalif]

do you have power at the #1 fuse when the key is on? Do you have power at the #9 and # 10 fuses?

[JoeRealtor]

no power to #1, 9 or 10 fuses.

[jimincalif]

check the black wire supplying power to # 10, it goes to the main post on the alternator.

I assume the post on the alternator has power? should be a wire between it and the starter motor, and we know you have power there.

[zachmac]

This was exactly what my car did. Indeed it was the black wire from the alternator that feeds #9/10 fuse. I ran a new heavy gauge lead from the starter post right to the fuse box and it runs like a champ.

BTW, you can jumper the brown wire junction box that is just above your fuse box to the input to fuse 9/10 to verify this will fix everything before making up the new lead.

[JoeRealtor]

Good call on the alternator. Went to check to see if I had power and what I got was a huge arc. That’s right, the hot wire from the starter to the alternator had broken, then I touched it and it hit a post and poof ( I am to smart to disconnect the battery before playing with the hot wires) . I disconnected the battery and fixed the break. It actually started (hoohaa) . Then died . Now I just get a click at the solenoid. Not the engaging click, more of an electrical click. Every couple of tries I will get a solenoid engaging click, then just the electrical click again. Checked the voltage and I have 12.53 to the starter and alternator. Think I fried the starter. What do you think?

[jimincalif]

Could be a lot of things but I don't think that would have fried the starter. Can jump directly from the starter post to the solenoid tab? This will bypass all the brown wire and red wire connectors, the ignition switch and the connector block to the ignition switch, all of which are likely suspects.

[JoeRealtor]

I have power to red and brown wire to starter. If I bridge them the fuel pump turns on and I get the same click as when I turn the key. Tried jumping the starter and still nothing. Going to pull the starter and have it tested.

[JoeRealtor]

Pulled starter and had it bench tested. DEAD. New one gets here tomorrow and we will see if she will finally be back on the road. Thanks for all the help.