What parts should I order for my timing belt job?
- courtenay
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 1321
- Joined: Mon Nov 30, 2009 11:41 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 Spider 2000
- Location: Courtenay, BC, Canada
Re: What parts should I order for my timing belt job?
Doesn't sound to me that he paid any attention to where the camshafts were aligned relative to the marks. Just marked them where they were, took the old belt off and put a new one on in the same position. And along the way, aligned the auxilary shaft at the 1 o'clock position. If the cams were aligned, it was more by good luck than good management. It could well be that the aux shaft is now out of alignment relative to the cams if they weren't set properly to begin with.
Bruce Shearer
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
'80 Spider Fi
'10 Volvo XC70
'06 GMC 1 Ton PU
'72 Spider a long, long time ago
Re: What parts should I order for my timing belt job?
I'll take a pic of where the gears are at now. I turned the crankshaft several revolutions by hand CW towards the drivers side and it spins freely, so is that an indication that the timing is good and nothing is hitting?
Re: What parts should I order for my timing belt job?
Thanks for help guys, car runs great!
-
- Posts: 548
- Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:17 pm
- Your car is a: 1982 Spider
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Re: What parts should I order for my timing belt job?
Jaime,
I love all your pics and help. Thank you. One problem: I followed the directions related to the diagram at the bottom of the first page of this post/thread and wrenched the tensioner bracket bolt off at the block. The last box (lower right hand corner) says "...then tighten tensioner bracket bolt to 33 ft-lb..." The diagram above it correctly points to the tensioner bracket bolt. But now that I have done this, I checked my IAP manual and it says to crank the tensioner PULLEY NUT to 33 ft-lb (after putting the lower cover on). It is such a beautiful diagram, is there a way of editing the wording? I presume the torque should be more like 8 ft-lb. Couldn't find it in my manual.
I called Ramzi at Auto Ricambi. He does not have the bolt and reported this is a common issue with that bolt. Where did that diagram come from? Perhaps a number of people have used the same one to ill effect. Anyway, George K told me to call Defatta Bros. in Baltimore, MD. Ed was VERY helpful and pulled a used one off an engine "out back" which I will pick up when I'm there this weekend.
Cheers
I love all your pics and help. Thank you. One problem: I followed the directions related to the diagram at the bottom of the first page of this post/thread and wrenched the tensioner bracket bolt off at the block. The last box (lower right hand corner) says "...then tighten tensioner bracket bolt to 33 ft-lb..." The diagram above it correctly points to the tensioner bracket bolt. But now that I have done this, I checked my IAP manual and it says to crank the tensioner PULLEY NUT to 33 ft-lb (after putting the lower cover on). It is such a beautiful diagram, is there a way of editing the wording? I presume the torque should be more like 8 ft-lb. Couldn't find it in my manual.
I called Ramzi at Auto Ricambi. He does not have the bolt and reported this is a common issue with that bolt. Where did that diagram come from? Perhaps a number of people have used the same one to ill effect. Anyway, George K told me to call Defatta Bros. in Baltimore, MD. Ed was VERY helpful and pulled a used one off an engine "out back" which I will pick up when I'm there this weekend.
Cheers
Steve
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe
1982 Red Spider 2000
1919 Old Town Sailing Canoe