Shock Replacement
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Luddite
Shock Replacement
I'm about to attempt to replace the shocks on my '81. Never tried this before. The shop manual makes the job look pretty easy on the front, but I'm missing the pages for the rear. Does anyone have those pages? Any advice?
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Tobi
Re: Shock Replacement
Hey Luddite,
I will try to explain it as good as I can with my broken English. At first you put a jack under the rear end end jack it up so the wheels have good clearance. Than you rest the body on stands, best at the mounting points of the trailing arms (not the arms because they would bend). Now you unscrew the upper part of the shocks from inside of the trunk and lower the rear end till it doesn't go any further. You should be able to unscrew the lower bold on the shocks now. Depending on the kind of springs you have you may not need spring compressors to get the springs out. If you can move the lower end of the spring to the side it should be possible to get the shocks out without removing the spring completely.
This is very important now, don't underestimate the force behind the springs. Make sure they are not under tension before you pry them out. The rear shocks should be easier to replace than the front ones.
Good luck with it,
Tobi
I will try to explain it as good as I can with my broken English. At first you put a jack under the rear end end jack it up so the wheels have good clearance. Than you rest the body on stands, best at the mounting points of the trailing arms (not the arms because they would bend). Now you unscrew the upper part of the shocks from inside of the trunk and lower the rear end till it doesn't go any further. You should be able to unscrew the lower bold on the shocks now. Depending on the kind of springs you have you may not need spring compressors to get the springs out. If you can move the lower end of the spring to the side it should be possible to get the shocks out without removing the spring completely.
This is very important now, don't underestimate the force behind the springs. Make sure they are not under tension before you pry them out. The rear shocks should be easier to replace than the front ones.
Good luck with it,
Tobi
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adrians
- Posts: 851
- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 6:07 am
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider Turbo - missing the turbo
- Location: Sydney - Australia
Re: Shock Replacement
The shocks are one of the easiest jobs to do,
The process Tobi described in the best for the rear removal, just ensure to jack the car up high and have the body on the jack stands and the jack under the center of the rear axle, so that the springs can decompress fully.
The front the springs are captured so no worries about the springs jumping out at you.
One helpful hint is when you are trying to rotate the nut of the top of the front shock it only moves a 1/6th or 1/8th of a turn each time. However if you rotate the top half of the shock from underneath with vice grips or a chain wrench it's much easier. Just ensure the spanner is locked against the body work.
Regards
The process Tobi described in the best for the rear removal, just ensure to jack the car up high and have the body on the jack stands and the jack under the center of the rear axle, so that the springs can decompress fully.
The front the springs are captured so no worries about the springs jumping out at you.
One helpful hint is when you are trying to rotate the nut of the top of the front shock it only moves a 1/6th or 1/8th of a turn each time. However if you rotate the top half of the shock from underneath with vice grips or a chain wrench it's much easier. Just ensure the spanner is locked against the body work.
Regards
THE FLEET
2014 Abarth "SS"
1981 Spider 2000 (Legend Industries Turbo - minus the Turbo)
1978 X1/9 1.3 Dual IDF 40's, Coupe Cam, Allison Header/Exhaust
1971 128 Sedan 1100cc, Coupe Cam/Headers
Motokhana Special 127 rear engined Rail 903cc
2014 Abarth "SS"
1981 Spider 2000 (Legend Industries Turbo - minus the Turbo)
1978 X1/9 1.3 Dual IDF 40's, Coupe Cam, Allison Header/Exhaust
1971 128 Sedan 1100cc, Coupe Cam/Headers
Motokhana Special 127 rear engined Rail 903cc
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zachmac
- Posts: 1278
- Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2008 9:20 am
- Your car is a: 1978 Spider [1979 2 ltr engine]
- Location: Aiken, SC
Re: Shock Replacement
You may also want to make sure you unscrew the 10mm bolt holding the actuator arm for the brake compensator before etting the rear axle all the way down so you don't damage the actuator arm (and it also restricts the amount the axle can drop). On my 1980 that allows the rear to drop down to where the springs are totally loose. BTW, you might also wan't to take the top nuts off BEFORE you jack it up so you are not trying to reaqch up into the far reaches of the trunk with a jacked up car!
Jeff Klein, Aiken, SC
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
1980 FI Spider, Veridian with Tan (sold about a year ago), in the market for another project
1989 Spider, sold
2008 Mercedes SL65
2008 S600 Mercedes V12
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Tobi
Re: Shock Replacement
Sorry, I forgot the actuator arm, but I am 6'1" and I prefer to work on the jacked up car. 
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Luddite
Re: Shock Replacement
Thanks for all the good info, everyone. If I understand correctly, you first jack up the whole rear end with a jack under the diff? Is the diff strong enough to support all that weight? And is there really enough room to get the front shocks out without lifting the front end?
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Luddite
Re: Shock Replacement
Well, I took the advice here and I can confirm that new shocks are indeed better than seized 30 year old shocks. What a difference.