What parts should I order for my timing belt job?

[Fiat88]

That would be very helpful wachuko! Cool! THx.

[wachuko]

Look... I really don't know at what time I will wake up

Here are a few photos:

Look at the marks of the holes aligned with the pointers and the marks I made with correction fluid to be able to see them easy.



Look at the auxiliary shaft alignment. You will see a mark in the pulley... an indent. That needs to be aligned with the tensioner bolt as in the photo. If not - here, take a look - Can engine block be fixed

[wachuko]

I went back to look at your photos... you will need to remove the crankshaft pulley... meaning, you better have an impact gun, the 1-1/2" socket, a couple of long extensions to remove that nut. You will need to put the socket on the nut with one of the extensions, insert the second extension through the grill and hit that R button on the impact tool away! That is, unless you also want to remove the grill




You also need a good set of pliers and good size screw driver to deal with the tensioner... that sob can be a bitch unless you learn how to deal with it... and if this is the first time, believe me, you will remove it a couple of times during the belt change... unless I am unique and a complete idiot (I am actually unique but a pseudo idiot ) . What I mean is that you will double guess yourself and will want to remove it to make sure it was installed correctly... so you will learn how to remove and install that #$%# spring from the tensioner... it will be your new learned art form. Green circle in photo:

[wachuko]

It can be a one man job, but I was so glad I had my father in law around to hold the belt in place while I routed it around the pulleys...

Like I said, I have an engine on the engine stand with all the pulleys aligned. Let me know of anything you need and I can snap a photo if I don't have it in my computer.

Other folks in the forum are sure to jump in and help.

And above all, Have fun!

[SLOSpider]

You should have 3 cam seals one for the aux. shaft. Also the gaskets for the aux shaft cover and front cranks seal cover will make life easier to replace those seals. And start soaking down the crank nut in your atf/acetone or pb blaster oil incase it looks like mine did:

[courtenay]

These may sound like a dumb questions - but how do you actually get all those marks lined up? Do you take the plugs out and turn the crankshaft until they line up or ? When the marks for the cams are lined up properly, does the aux shaft marks automatically line up - and if not, how do you line that one up without affecting the other marks? Finally, on Jamie's pictures, what do the white liquid paper marks signify? It looks like the pointers are lined up with the holes in the pulleys, but I'm not sure what the white dots are lined up with.

[wachuko]

Yes, take out plugs and turn until the camshafts and crankshaft pulley are in their marks.

The aux shaft, don't worry too much about it until time to install the new belt. Without the belt the camshft and crankshaft should not move easily. Aux shaft should turn freely.

True, you don't need the marks I made with the white liquid paper.... Those make sense when you are down doing the change and can't clearly see the factory marks. It also helps,since you can make them closer to each othe to avoid the pulleys moving one tooth.

These may sound like a dumb questions - but how do you actually get all those marks lined up? Do you take the plugs out and turn the crankshaft until they line up or ? When the marks for the cams are lined up properly, does the aux shaft marks automatically line up - and if not, how do you line that one up without affecting the other marks? Finally, on Jamie's pictures, what do the white liquid paper marks signify? It looks like the pointers are lined up with the holes in the pulleys, but I'm not sure what the white dots are lined up with.

[Fiat88]

Fantastic man will give it a go today and post what I accomplish. I do have the radiator and grill out so I have enough space to work and my friend said I can borrow his impact gun.

The pics are much appreciated. THx.

[courtenay]

Aha - sorry Jamie - I wasn't looking close enough. Now I see the white dots on the pulleys are lined up with white dots on the block. And as long as they stay lined up, the pulley hasn't moved. Eureka. I'll get this eventually.

[Fiat88]

Ok I removed the alt./water pump belt and I then got my father to give me a hand taking out the 3 pulley bolts, kind of a a pain cause we didn't have anything to hold it from spinning. We took out the bolts from the water pump housing I did this only to figure out I have to remove the inner metal cover to get to the last bolt. I removed the spark plugs and put the car in neutral to try and turn the engine by hand but the crankshaft would not turn. So, my neighbor who has a '78 MG midgit came out to assist me in trying to line up the marks.

Well we tried to get the crankshaft to turn to get the camsgafts to align with the marks but we had trouble spinning the pulley. I have an automatic trans. So I'm not sure if that's the problem, well he said lets try and jack the rear end up and put the car in neutral, well the crankshaft turned a little bit but stopped. So, I'm a bit puzzled. Would it matter what way we turned the crankshaft CW or CCW?

Then, I text the guy who knows much more about engines and timing belts to come and give me a hand as he wasn't home earlier. He came by and starting to address the situation and said as the car is a automatic it's a little different turning the engine by hand. He has the impact wrench, but didn't have a 1 1/2 socket so we went to Sears they didn't have it so I got it at pepboys. The only thing was that his gun uses a 1/2 drive and the 1 1/2 is a 3/4 so i had to get an adaptor at sears.

He said he'll help me tomorrow! So, tomorrow should be interesting.

You guys have any tips or suggestions on the proper way to turn the car by hand. Does the automatic trans. make it harder? What way is the crankshaft pulley supposed to be turned if standing in front of the car, CW or CCW?

[rlux4]

If your auxilliary pulley isn't lined up properly (indicator hole pointing towards the tensioner bolt) it could be that the lobe on the shaft has made contact with your #2 rod bolt. Check it for positioning, if it's off, turn the engine the oposite direction very slightly to allow you to position the auxilliary pulley. It's my guess that this is your problem.
Ron

[ventura ace]

If you put the transmission in Neutral, you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft (either manual or automatic tranny). Definitely take it out of Park, or you won't be able to move it.

You mentioned removing 3 pulley bolts -- are you talking about the water pump pulley? You shouln't need to remove that pulley to change the timing belt. If you've loosened the timing belt tensioner and allowed pulleys to move in relation to each other, you may possibly be bumping valves to valves or valves to pistons or auxiliary shaft to connecting rods. I hope not, because that can cause damage. Call me if you would like some coaching over the phone for this job. Sometimes it's easier to discuss than to type notes back and forth.

Alvon
805-338-1767

[Fiat88]

If your auxilliary pulley isn't lined up properly (indicator hole pointing towards the tensioner bolt) it could be that the lobe on the shaft has made contact with your #2 rod bolt. Check it for positioning, if it's off, turn the engine the oposite direction very slightly to allow you to position the auxilliary pulley. It's my guess that this is your problem.
Ron

Will check that tomorrow.

If you put the transmission in Neutral, you should be able to turn the engine crankshaft (either manual or automatic tranny). Definitely take it out of Park, or you won't be able to move it.

You mentioned removing 3 pulley bolts -- are you talking about the water pump pulley? You shouln't need to remove that pulley to change the timing belt. If you've loosened the timing belt tensioner and allowed pulleys to move in relation to each other, you may possibly be bumping valves to valves or valves to pistons or auxiliary shaft to connecting rods. I hope not, because that can cause damage. Call me if you would like some coaching over the phone for this job. Sometimes it's easier to discuss than to type notes back and forth.


Alvon
805-338-1767

Yup, I was talking about the water pump pulley with the 3 bolts, I'm replacing the water pump as most mentioned is a good idea . Haven't touched the timing belt bearing, and the timing belt is still on.

Do the back wheels have to be off the ground, when turning the crankshaft?

Thanks for the number, I'll see how far my friend and I get, he knows his stuff but will write yoyr number down. We should be starting around 11 a.m. eastern time.

[SLOSpider]

You do have to remove the water pump pulley to change the tensioner.

I recommend that you try and remove the crank nut with the belt still on and the car in PARK. If it does not come off right away, you have been putting penetrating oil on it right?, then reverse your impact and try and tighten then reverse again. Worse case is its rusted and a bit of heat from a propane torch will help it along in a hurry.

Also you should be able to turn it by hand if your belt is still on since its been running then its NOT hitting the aux shaft. A socket will make it easier to turn CLOCKWISE as you look at the front of the engine. When all your marks are lined up then loosen the tensioner bracket bolts and push towards the water pump to loosen, once pushed in then tighten the tensioner bolt, not NUT, back down to hold it in the loose position. This will help you remove and reinstall the new belt much easier. When installing the new belt you will work from the crank then the aux shaft then intake and exhaust cams with the belt line up. You want the slack to be at the tensioner as that is the last part you will slide the belt over. Post up if you have any issues.

[Fiat88]

You do have to remove the water pump pulley to change the tensioner.

I recommend that you try and remove the crank nut with the belt still on and the car in PARK. If it does not come off right away, you have been putting penetrating oil on it right?, then reverse your impact and try and tighten then reverse again. Worse case is its rusted and a bit of heat from a propane torch will help it along in a hurry.

Also you should be able to turn it by hand if your belt is still on since its been running then its NOT hitting the aux shaft. A socket will make it easier to turn CLOCKWISE as you look at the front of the engine. When all your marks are lined up then loosen the tensioner bracket bolts and push towards the water pump to loosen, once pushed in then tighten the tensioner bolt, not NUT, back down to hold it in the loose position. This will help you remove and reinstall the new belt much easier. When installing the new belt you will work from the crank then the aux shaft then intake and exhaust cams with the belt line up. You want the slack to be at the tensioner as that is the last part you will slide the belt over. Post up if you have any issues.

Yup been hitting the crank nut with WD-40 and tonight sprayed some liquid wrench type stuff on it.