Jaime, you don't need to spray THAT much carb cleaner. Just keep it on the intake side of the engine and away from the hot headers and you will be fine. I have also used propane in the past with a small piece of tubing hooked up to the valve on the bottle. In fact, back in the 90s when I sold scopes and analyzers for Allen Test products, one of the valves for this purpose was included with every engine analyzer, so this is not something that I just made up. There is no need to be spraying it anywhere near the headers anyway, so stay away from them and you will be fine.
I can see the news report....MAN BURNS DOWN HIS HOUSE BY SPRAYING FLAMMABLE LIQUID ON HIS CAR EXHAUST.
pooldoctorstl wrote:Jaime, you don't need to spray THAT much carb cleaner. Just keep it on the intake side of the engine and away from the hot headers and you will be fine. I have also used propane in the past with a small piece of tubing hooked up to the valve on the bottle. In fact, back in the 90s when I sold scopes and analyzers for Allen Test products, one of the valves for this purpose was included with every engine analyzer, so this is not something that I just made up. There is no need to be spraying it anywhere near the headers anyway, so stay away from them and you will be fine.
I can see the news report....MAN BURNS DOWN HIS HOUSE BY SPRAYING FLAMMABLE LIQUID ON HIS CAR EXHAUST.
Jeff
Use propane!? Now that had to be fun! I can picture it... someone with cigarette in mouth diagnosing using a propane tank... When I was working repairing the evaporator in the 964 there was a guy that recommended using propane to clean/remove all the oil from the A/C system... my sense of self preservation prevented me from trying that approach... No offense, but I will stick to the carburetor cleaner for now Thank you!
Actually, propane is safer, carb cleaner is flammable and you can't really control where it goes, and it puddles. Propane bottle with a long small hose works good for lot of small leaks. But long before I reach for a bottle of anything, I listen with a stephascope (sp?) with an open hose. Large vacuum leaks can cause issues, and are usually obvious just listening with stephascope. Small leaks are usually NOT causing issues, heck, an engine is just one big vacuum leak sucking air in anyway. The ductwork BEFORE the throttle is more important, it has to be airtight.
And from listening to your videos, this is NOT a vacuum leak issue anyway.
FYI, exhaust pipe gets red hot because timing is too retarded, fuel is burning in the exhaust system.
Too rich does not cause header to get red. Too rich uses up all the O2 in the cylinder, then dumps unburned fuel out exhaust, hence black smoke.
Cat convertor gets red hot from too much fuel.
Listening to car trying to start, I would guess car is mostly starting on fuel from CSI, thus the start and die.
You need to listen to the injectors one at a time, go get a cheapy stephascope ( hey you can use if for vacuum leaks too!) and put probe on inj one at a time. Should go "click clikc click" and should all be the same. If one is not making noise, now you have something to fix, check connector at inj FIRST, wiggle it while car running, and keep listening to inj. Connectors, they fail a lot. If one inj is going "thup thup thup" while others are going " click click click" is likely gummed up.
Make sure ductwork to intake is airtight, listen to injectors, report back.
Keith
OK, finalize all the move of the '83 wiring (engine and dash section, still have to connect the harness to the rear lights, etc.).
Car was still running like crap... replaced a broke hose from the fuel pressure regulator, double checked timing and still running like crap...
Just as I was about to give up for the day I decided to unplug the temperature sensor that is on the coolant "T"... and guess what!!! It purrsssssss!!! Sweet sound of Italy!
Here is a video as I plug and unplug the sensor, even with a sensor outside the car... I need to trace the wires and make sure what the problem is... must be grounded somewhere... anyway, extremely happy that it is now moving on its own power, wooohooooo!!!
Don't mind the issue at the end of the video, as I was giving gas via the front I disconnected the cable to the throttle and the car died... once I get it all back in place I will set the idle screw correctly.
Video (give it a little to finalize processing...) :
That's strange Jaime. It's the exact opposite of what normally happens with that sensor connection. Take a smooth running FI engine and unplug the connector and it will run like total crap, or more likely, die. It sure looks like the correct wires going to it though. You have to let us know what you find out on this.
Ron
Ron Luxmore rlux2n2@gmail.com
'82 2000 Spider: after 26 years between Spiders.
Guys, I understand that something still wrong if the car does not run well with that sensor connected.
But please let me enjoy this moment . I reached a point where I was about to remove that engine and install the spare unit... it was that bad... to hear it working so smoothly just injected me with a surge of adrenaline. Now I can continue to trace the problem knowing that it is not a broken valve, or something much worse than a vacuum line or a wire issue... At least I know that the engine is healthy, I can move the car on its own power, etc...
I still need to do the set of tests to troubleshoot the situation and find the culprit. Thank you all!
e-mail me, ill give you my phone #, we can discuss this problem, and i might be able to help with a solution, i have plenty of test parts in my backyard shop
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider , 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
BEEK wrote:e-mail me, ill give you my phone #, we can discuss this problem, and i might be able to help with a solution, i have plenty of test parts in my backyard shop
Doing a search on this as I am having a similar problem. I will try unplugging the coolant "t" sensor...what have I got to lose!
BTW, I see your car was brown too? Most be a brown car problem.
-Sam
Fiat Club America Long Island Chapter Contact
1981 Fiat Spider 2000 (original owner)
1982 Fiat X1/9
2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia
2018 Alfa Stelvio
My Brown 81 Turbo (removed) Spider just started having a similar issue. I currently have a post if you're curious.
Thanks.
Giulio/Charlotte
1st car '75 pistachio 128 sedan
Owned a '74 Spider, '68 Firebird, a '65 GTO convertible, and a customized '74 650 Yamaha
Currently own an '81 Turbo (removed) Spider
No matter what my wife says 
