Another poor running FI Spider... :(

[wachuko]

One is connected in ther front of the car near the spark plug but the other one go in the back to where exactely?

I will take a photo so it is clear. It flows coolant...

[wachuko]

Here you go:



And some more from the spare engine so you can see where the hoses go:

The long one goes via the back of the engine to the pipe that goes to the heater unit...





The short one:



I hope that helps explain it.

[wachuko]

Anything guys?

Just for fun... one video I started to take until I realized I had not installed the AFM intake hose

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XiCVdVcT0L0

[So Cal Mark]

just a little thing, and it has no effect on your problem, but the two nuts on the throttle cable should be tightened together, not one on each side of the plenum bracket.
With the constant revving in the video, it's impossible to tell what's happening with the motor. It would be more helpful to let the engine run poorly rather than constantly revving it to 3k.
How long was the engine sitting without running? If it's over 6 months, I'd suggest cleaning the injectors or at least removing them and observing the spray pattern.
When the header was red, were all 4 cylinders that hot, or one or two?

[Europa]

Jaime, just a few simple things to check.

Coolant sensor, if the connection is not proper, can make the FI cars run rough.
There are 2 FI grounds on the intake plenum, I believe each ground handles 2 injectors each. May want to clean and re-seat.
The big airflow hose from AFM to throttle body, if there are any leaks, engine will run rough. You can spray carb cleaner or similar on the hose and see if your idle fluctuates.
Fuel pressure regulator, are you sure it is in good working order?
Check the fuel injectors, power to fuel injectors. (If you need a NOID light set, let me know)
The AAR, cold start injector and the thermo time switch only com in to play when the engine is cool/cold. You mentioned that the engine is at operating temperature. Out of curiosity, did you check to see if the cold start injector is working properly?

[wachuko]

just a little thing, and it has no effect on your problem, but the two nuts on the throttle cable should be tightened together, not one on each side of the plenum bracket.
With the constant revving in the video, it's impossible to tell what's happening with the motor. It would be more helpful to let the engine run poorly rather than constantly revving it to 3k.
How long was the engine sitting without running? If it's over 6 months, I'd suggest cleaning the injectors or at least removing them and observing the spray pattern.
When the header was red, were all 4 cylinders that hot, or one or two?

I will take a video from cold and without revving. Just let it try to idle.

Second nut is for locking the first, right... will fix that. Thank you.

When the headers were red all four cylinder were that hot.

I will check the injectors.

I wanted to first see if the issue was an easy fix that I was overlooking... it is not, so it is time to sit down and start going over the whole wire harness, sensors, etc... and eliminate the possibility of a bad wire or sensor, and move from there.

[wachuko]

Jaime, just a few simple things to check.

Coolant sensor, if the connection is not proper, can make the FI cars run rough.
There are 2 FI grounds on the intake plenum, I believe each ground handles 2 injectors each. May want to clean and re-seat.
The big airflow hose from AFM to throttle body, if there are any leaks, engine will run rough. You can spray carb cleaner or similar on the hose and see if your idle fluctuates.
Fuel pressure regulator, are you sure it is in good working order?
Check the fuel injectors, power to fuel injectors. (If you need a NOID light set, let me know)
The AAR, cold start injector and the thermo time switch only com in to play when the engine is cool/cold. You mentioned that the engine is at operating temperature. Out of curiosity, did you check to see if the cold start injector is working properly?

There is a change in how the engine behaves when I disconnect and connect that sensor, so it is making a difference whether is connected or not. That does not mean it is working fine, let me see how to test that one. The connector looks like it failed at some point because it was replaced (not a great job at that as the old one was cut and another one was installed with some crimping connectors, might be good to redo that right).

AFM hose is new.

FPR, I will swap with the parts car.

Injectors, we have a NOID kit. I will make it part of the things to check. Thank you for the offer!

[wachuko]

I replaced the temp sensor on the coolant "T"

Videos (keep in mind that besides those times when you see my hand reaching for the accelerator, I start the car without touching the gas pedal):

From a cold start:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9mm1NezxPM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9GTreVdb9w

Warmed up but not yet to operating temperature:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MZ-xpHaWh8

[wachuko]

I have a few documents on hand to systematically start testing all the harness and sensors. And will be side tracked a little by the changing of the internal harness to match to the new dash and gauges..

Will report back once all that is done. Thank you for all your help so far.

[Snoopy]

Sounds terrible !

happy pills again ?

The idle at my engine is bad but not so bad...

[pooldoctorstl]

Double check all vacuum hoses and make sure they are connected and no cracks or breaks. As was said earlier, glowing red headers is a very lean condition generaly indicating either a vacuum leak or fuel starvation. They usually run like crap at idle but better at higher RPM. And for the hell of it, check the fuel pressure. Throw a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in it too with a full tank of gas.
Good luck.
Jeff

[pooldoctorstl]

Hey Jaime one other thing....to help find a vacuum leak (if it has one) take a can of carb cleaner and start spraying it around the engine and on the vac hoses and fittings. It is combustible and if there is a leak it will get sucked in and the engine will immediately smooth out. It's a great way to find vacuum leaks fast because you can't always see them.

Jeff

[wachuko]

Hey Jaime one other thing....to help find a vacuum leak (if it has one) take a can of carb cleaner and start spraying it around the engine and on the vac hoses and fittings. It is combustible and if there is a leak it will get sucked in and the engine will immediately smooth out. It's a great way to find vacuum leaks fast because you can't always see them.

Jeff

Jeff, pretty cool suggestion. I will put it to good use. Thank you.

[ORFORD2004]

But stay away from the headers or you will collect the insurance lolll!!!!

[pooldoctorstl]

ORFORD2004 GOOD POINT! I should have added to stay on the intake side of the motor where the vac hoses are.