Replacing the cam belt - how to get the front pulley off ?

[124cso]

I want to replace the timing belt on my 1980 2.0L injected spider (with engine in the car).
The problem is how to get the crankshaft front pulley off. It has to come off to get the tin shielding off, to get to the belt, but is torqued to 181 foot/pounds (according the factory shop manual) and I can't budge it.
I have tried putting car in gear and having someone sit in car and apply brakes, but without servo assistance, it did not do the trick.
Anyone found a way to get the darn thing loose ? HELP !

[So Cal Mark]

you'll either have to lock down the flywheel and then use a long breaker bar, or an impact wrench

[124cso]

yes but how do you lock the flywheel with the bell housing in place ???

[So Cal Mark]

either remove the splash shield on the bottom of the bellhousing or remove the starter. If you're serious about working on these cars, investing in an impact wrench (either electric or air) would be a wise investment

[spidernut]

I removed the bottom splash shield, then used a piece of angle iron (bent to fit the teeth in the flywheel). It held the flywheel like a charm. My car required a 3 foot breaker bar with a 25 lb sledge hammer to break it loose. I was exhausted...go for the impact wrench like Mark said. It is worth the investment.

[mbouse]

John,

Will the impact wrench fit with just the radiator removed, or does some other modification need to be done in the nose of the car?

I've heard of guys drilling holes....etc....to get an impact wrench to do this job.

are there really clearance issues here?

[So Cal Mark]

with the radiator removed, I use a 12" extension with a swivel joint on the end. Slide the extension through the lower grille and through the lower radiator mount.

[bandit]

with a impact gun you shouldn't need to lock the flywheel just keep
it in first gear and have the brakes on or someone applie them !


Dan

[mbouse]

a half inch drive impact is enough to do this?



if so, i am all over an impact wrench. In the years i've been shadetree wrenching (looongg time) i've never found one job that could not be done with a good set of combination wrenches, or a high quality set of sockets and a hand ratchet, couldn't tackle...that is, until i met the Spider crank nut.

not only is there little room to move around, 180# of torque is extreme.

[So Cal Mark]

a good 1/2" impact handles it

[mbouse]

Dontcha just love it when there is yet another good reason to buy a tool?

R-R-Rrrrr

the Spitwad uses a size i have never seen before, and i had to locate my cresent wrench recently to do heart surgery on the carburetors. Anyone ever seen a 17/32" wrench? I am having trouble finding one of those.

[spider2081]

I had the misfortune of buying an 81 someone put the crankshaft nut on with locktite. My 1/2" drive impact wrench would not budge it. Ended up bowering a 3/4" drive from a guy who operates tug boats, opening the air regulator up to 150lbs and heating the nut with a tourch to break it loose. It was hard turning all the way off. Since then I've done 2 others and the 1/2 impact worked very nice like others have said.

[manoa matt]

Ive managed to get my timing belt off and on without taking off the pully.
The alloy flange on the front main seal carrier is the problem. if you start from the top and slide the belt in the space between the flange and the toothed cog and work your way around counterclockwise pushing it in with one hand and pulling up the slack with the other hand. It should go, however if it binds or gets twisted start over, take your time and you'll figure it out, no need to take off the darn pully. also make shure to allign the auxillary shaft when timing. hope it works for you

matt