Removing Emissions

[dsnyder]

I have a 1978 Fiat Spider with a Weber Carb. Arizona just changed the emission laws and it can now be registered as a "Collectible Car" and it no longer needs to go through emissions. That being said, I'd like to remove the smog pump and the related tubes wiring ect... It runs but not great. Anyone care to take me through a step by step on what to take out and what to leave? By not great I mean there is a significant flat spot in the lower rpm's and the cold idle, high speed idle gets stuck so even after I'm up to temp it races to about 3000rpms on idle. I have to kick the accellerator and then it drops down to 900. I just got the car and I've not done the basics yet like points, plugs and timing but taking off the unneeded/unsafe is going to be my first step. Thanks in advance (new member- Dave)

[mbouse]

send me an email and i will give you some suggestions.

the short answer is yes...smog equipment can be removed.

since you are a new owner, i would suggest doing what you know you need to (tune up) and get the car running peak performance with the equipment in place. that way, you will know instantly if you goofed when making a modification, or be pleasantly surprised at the change in performance from a day with a wrench in your hand.

[bwilson27]

I'm probably not qualified to answer your questions... I'm sure someone else with real knowledge will chime in soon, but I have a question for you- I live in AZ, too, and I'd sure like to know how to register my '75 as a collectible car. Does it require special insurance? If so, is it spendy?
Could you point me in the right direction for this?
I too would like to know how to set these up to run optimal with no emission equipment. Sweet!

[So Cal Mark]

don't expect the car to run any better or different by removing the emission equipment. Sounds like you have at the very least a carburetor problem.

[dsnyder]

Insurance- Just ask for Collector's Car Insurance. How much it costs depends on how much you insure it for.

I read that if the smog pump freezes up that it can make the timing belt break and valves break etc... I don't want to remove the emissions for performance reasons, mostly for safety and simplicity.

As part of the tune up, what do I want my dwell reading to be? How about the timing?

Thanks to everyone who has answered so far!

Dave

[johndemar]

Brett

Pick up collector car insurance and go in to DMV and say you want to register the car as collectible. The plates will be the same as you have now without the hassle of going through emissions.

I have Hagerty Insurance. Valued the car at 8K and costs me $125 a year.

BTW, I almost bought your current projects from the guy in Tempe. Just didn't have room for them.

[bwilson27]

Brett

Pick up collector car insurance and go in to DMV and say you want to register the car as collectible. The plates will be the same as you have now without the hassle of going through emissions.

I have Hagerty Insurance. Valued the car at 8K and costs me $125 a year.

BTW, I almost bought your current projects from the guy in Tempe. Just didn't have room for them.

Awesome! I've seen Hagerty insurance before when looking up collector car info. I thought it was actually more costly than regular insurance, though. But yep, you're right, it's only about 125 a year! And it's perfect for me because I meet all the right qualifications; I own a daily driver that already has insurance, I'll be keeping the spider in a locked garage, and I won't be putting much mileage on it.
That's great news! Because as the OP says, no emissions!
Yeah, the previous owner was a good guy and even hauled them to my house in Paradise Valley!
300 bucks for the pair!

[So Cal Mark]

78s don't have a problem with the smog pump/timing belt. It's only the 75/76 that had the pump driven off the exhaust cam that had that potential. Plus, the 75/76 engines were/are interference engines so the valves would hit the pistons. 78s had larger valve reliefs (hence the drop in compression) and should freewheel if the t belt breaks

[dsnyder]

I heard that about the 78 engines being able to freewheel because of a cut in the pistons... what about the distributer breaking something? Isn't there some modification needed to make the car totally freewheel safe?

[So Cal Mark]

not for a 78

[manoa matt]

Mark,

As a side note regarding piston reliefs. My 78 is my daily driver. I'm building up a performance 2L motor to go in the 78. I also have a block from a 76 parts car. My goal is to cobble together stock parts and do it on a shoestring budget. I'm going to use a 1.8L head on the 2L block to increase compression, which should give me 8.6:1. I'm not concerned with building a non interference engine, if it breaks, it breaks.

The question: Use the 2L pistons already in the 2L block, or will the 76 pistons give me more compression? I'm thinking about shaving the block face to increase compression too. I'd like to be in the 9.5:1 range.

[So Cal Mark]

as I recall, the 1/8/2L combo gives higher compression than 8.6. The 76 pistons do have slightly smaller valve reliefs and should give another .1 or .2 compression rise. That is if the pistons are originals

[maytag]

as I recall, the 1/8/2L combo gives higher compression than 8.6. The 76 pistons do have slightly smaller valve reliefs and should give another .1 or .2 compression rise. That is if the pistons are originals

manoamatt:
have you ever cc'd a head before? you can do the same thing with the cylinder / piston combo, and come-up with your excat compression ratio that way.

[maytag]

As part of the tune up, what do I want my dwell reading to be? How about the timing?

I set my dwell at 52 degrees. As I recall, factory spec is 50-55.
Ignition timing is anyone's guess, as there seems to be no real consensus. You should have a sticker under the hood on the radiator support that will tell you.
OR: it seems like 10 degrees is pretty safe and common.

[bwilson27]

Did you see this thread?
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... ction+rail