1982 SPider - Was bucking at 2K RPM, now will not start??

CharlestonFiat · Post by **CharlestonFiat** » Sun May 28, 2006 3:24 pm

I have seen other posts about FI spiders not starting but nothing that was a perfect match. Took the car out this morining and noticed that it was bucking at approx 2K rpm, only made it through 1,2 and 3rd. Came back to the house pulled in driveway, and let engine rev in neutral. Ran smooth. Decieded to take it around the block one more time, stalled out whil backing up and has not restarted. Cranks fine, plugs look good and yes it has gas. Work done recently was changing out rear end fluid but this seems unrelated. Aslo changed out tunnel and radio console. But Ran fine the other night in all gears and at various speeds. Thinking best place to start is with Fuel pump and filter, as I smell no gas when it has been cranked. Amy ideas would be great. Thanks....

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Sun May 28, 2006 6:57 pm

when you turn the key to "on", you should hear the pump run for 2 seconds.
I'd take a close look at the intake boot between the air flow meter and the throttle body, also check the flap in the air flow meter. It should move freely thru it's range.
When it was bucking, was it under steady throttle or accelerating? You might also remove the dist cap and take a look at the wires to the pickup. They have a tendency to fray, then short out or break completely

CharlestonFiat · Post by **CharlestonFiat** » Sun May 28, 2006 8:30 pm

Thanks for the heads up on the amount of time the pump should run. I feel it is either the fuel pump or somewhere in the distribution system as it is not even coughing. The bumping was worse under accleration but was also felt if it was brought up to the approx 2k rpm range, it would do it once then I did not notice again in that gear but it may have been due to shifting. Was thinking my transmission was slipping but now it will not start so it is a mute point or the two could be related. Throttle plate seems free and the boot to the air flow sensor is intact. Kind of bummed out as the car was running so well.

mlynch003 · Post by **mlynch003** » Tue May 30, 2006 3:21 pm

Check the Throttle position sensor, it is possible that the sensor is bad. This gives a false reading on the throttle position or worse yet the Computer does not know that the throttle is open or closed. My 82 had this issue and acted the same way. Of course you need to verify the fuel pump operation and fuel pressure at the main fuel rail. Also check the fuel filter, if it is stopped up with gum or trash you will get these same symptoms. Low fuel pressure can be caused by a plugged filter, plugged fuel pickup strainer, crushed fuel lines, worn pump or bad fuel pressure regulator. The FI system needs correct fuel pressure and sensor inputs from all sensors to operate correctly. Have fun!

CharlestonFiat · Post by **CharlestonFiat** » Sat Jun 10, 2006 2:29 am

Thanks for the suggestions from all. I will check into them. As for now, the car sits, I have been moved overseas until the middle of the summer....

So no fun driving around for awhile....

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 12:02 pm

I'm having a very similar problem myself. Mine tends to happen around 2.5k RPM if I try to give it too much throttle. It also seems temp sensitive. I've had problems starting the car while the engine was warm and on a hill, so maybe it's related? I also almost stall out if the engine is cold and I shift into first.

I've been busy with work and school, so I've not had time to test things recently. I need to do something soon, since I'm starting to become a road hazard. I've got semis pulling around me to accelerate :/

I've checked the fuel pressure before, and it was fine. I replaced the fuel filter just a few months back. The PO had installed a second filter between the tank and the pump, I might try removing that and seeing if it makes any difference. I've been considering a bottle of that FI cleaner, any advise on that? I also know that my vacuum advance is completely shot and my coil/distributor are a bit wonky.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Fri Sep 08, 2006 3:13 pm

you need to get the filter out between the tank and pump. As for the coil/dist, how can you expect the car to run perfectly if all components aren't perfect? Generally, top end perf problems are fuel related

IMDRiddler · Post by **IMDRiddler** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:18 pm

I have encountered this problem before just as you both describe. Mine involved two issues (one known and one unknown).

The known issue was my fuel tank. I saw rust in the filler neck and immediately knew that in the future I would need a fuel tank. So check your fuel filter to see if there are any rust particles there and replace if necessary the filter and tank. Also check your pump while you are down there.

The unknown part was my thermo time switch. The switch was bad and needed to be replaced. Also the leads to this switch can be come frayed if your hood liner rubs across them and will cause the car to do unfunny things while you drive.

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 12:30 pm

Fuel tank should be fine, it's pretty new. I've wondered about the thermo-time, but it tested fine last I looked about a month ago. Talked to someone today that said it was prolly my busted vac advance.

I have a new job, so I'll have some money to spend soon on repairs. I plan on replacing FI sensors as I have the time and cash, aswell as visiting some love on the distributor and coil.

Main problem right now is that I have work or school from 7am to around 4 to 5pm, and have no time to head over to Vick's or to work on the car. Might take a weekend off soon to try and get things fixed all at once, but those types of projects almost always backfire on me

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 1:21 pm

the thermo time switch is under the intake manifold and controls the cold start injector. The switch you're describing is the temp sender that controls the mixture as the engine warms up. A vac adv won't cause a no-start condition. The only way you'd notice the vac adv not working is a slight decrease in fuel mileage

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 10:17 pm

I've been told by several people now that the vac adv will only help my mileage, but I need every bit I can right now

I'm going to be going over the FI system double checking sensors, pressure, and lines when I next get a chance (might be up to a week), I'll post back if I find anything that helps. I'm also going to be taking out the extra filter the PO installed, aswell as replacing the other and cutting both open to see what's inside.

Does the fuel pressure regulator use engine vacuum somehow? If my engine is having problems keeping a vacuum then could that cause problems? If I recall right the regulator actually drops the pressure a little, but don't remember right now.

On a side note I was driving along and heard a small pop from under the hood. Dunno if was my car, or something I didn't notice on the road. A few miles after that I decided to try giving it some extra throttle and see what would happen. To my complete suprise it happily reved up to about 4500 before I backed off. If it still runs like this tomorrow when the engine is cold, I'm not sure to be happy or even more worried

Noaki · Post by **Noaki** » Sat Sep 16, 2006 8:30 am

Got the old fuel filters off last night. One of them had this strange pink gel inside of it. Would that be part of an internal seal, the filter itself, or might that be what was causing some problems? I'm not sure what's going on inside those things, maybe I'll learn more when I get to cut it open.

Also, in the intake manifold, how much varnish is normal to have? I have a good layer of it, but I don't know if that's normal from the cold start valve or anything. I can try and get pictures later if it would help.

1982 SPider - Was bucking at 2K RPM, now will not start??

1982 SPider - Was bucking at 2K RPM, now will not start??

82 Spider Bucking?