coil problem

[jr]

posted in parts accidentally

I have a "new" 1979 spider automatic, it had dual points with 1800 manifold
and adfa carb all from the 1978, i set it up right now with single points to
work on the electrical problems it has (as per ad). I can get it to idle
pretty smooth, but when i touch the coil with a testing light on the negative
side where the distributor wire and tach wire meet, it starts idleing rough
then when i leave it alone, it runs smooth again. The problem occurs when i
back out of the garage and get into gear, there is the same roughness, it does
not smooth out. The positive side of the coil has the pink (ignition?) wire
and the electric fuel pump wire attached. Where do i go from here? Is it a
short in the wire somewhere? The coil by the way is new, with an internal
resistor. I do want to go to the electical points later, once i get the
problem identified, wouldn't the same wires still go to the coil even if i had
an electical points?

Thanks
jr

[jr]

Okay, looked over wiring diagrams and it looks as if the wiring is in place as to where it should be. I guess the next question is, I have the internal resistor coil, does that mean I still need a ballast resistor hooked up to the coil?

[bandit]

Hi Jr

So let me get this straight you have a 1979 Spider with a Duel Point ( 78 )
Dizzy that you converted to a single point system ?

The first thing i would ask you how do you know for sure the coil has
an internal resistor ? and if it does you'll need to by pass the Factory
resistor or your voltage will be to low .
It is mounted on the same side as your coil if the car is a 1978 if
it's a 1979 it doen't have a resistor it's been replace with a module
thats mounted on the heat sink of the coil for the electronic ign .

To by pass the resistor on the 78 just connect the 2 leads together
some how and that should do it they plug on the resistor with little
plugs about an 1/8 inch wide . An easy way to connect them would
buy the male verion of those plugs ( they might be at PeP Boys )
cut a piece of wire and crimp them then plug them in place of the
resistor .


Daniel

[jr]

I know, I know, confusing with the 79/78 setup, but as soon as i know for certain what is wrong electrically with the car, then i can at least get to the point where i can change the points to electronics, it is a 79 2 litre. The coil has" no external resistor required" written on it. That module that is on the heat sink, should not be connected to the coil if it is internal resistor?

[jr]

I know, I know, confusing with the 79/78 setup, but as soon as i know for certain what is wrong electrically with the car, then i can at least get to the point where i can change the points to electronics, it is a 79 2 litre. The coil has" no external resistor required" written on it. That module that is on the heat sink, should not be connected to the coil if it is internal resistor?

[bandit]

Jr

Ok i took a couple photos just so we can be clear on your coil
this one is an Eletronic Coil mounted on a Factory Heatsink
with the Module in the heatsink resting under the coil


This is what a Module looks like only this is an after market replacement with a fancy yellow sticker on it .


Between the Duel point and Electronic Dist's they have nothing in common
the Module isn't a Resistor it read's the pickup in the dizzy about the only
thing comon between the 2 is there Alumiun cast body and thats it .

You should check your Voltage to the coil it's self just in case it should
be 12 volts with the key on run with out starting the car .
A ohms meter should have what you need to do this .

Daniel

[jr]

Wow, picture is worth a thousand words. The coil i have on is the first one with the heatsink, however, there is no module, just the coil. I am pretty sure the wiring is correct. I guess my question is should there be a module there?

[So Cal Mark]

not if you're using points. The two systems use different coils though

[jr]

so with the points, an internal resistor coil, without a ballast resistor is okay to use?

[jlond70]

With points, a good coil to use is the Bosch Blue coil:

http://www.international-auto.com/index ... sid=866933

With electronic ignition (no points) a good coil is the Pertronix Flamethrower:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Regards,
Josh

[jlond70]

With points, a good coil to use is the Bosch Blue coil:

http://www.international-auto.com/index ... sid=866933

With electronic ignition (no points) a good coil is the Pertronix Flamethrower:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku

Regards,
Josh

[bandit]

deleted

[bandit]

ok I re read this whole thing to see why it was so confusing
to make sure i am clear about this .

First off you have a 1979 Spider that the Electronic Ign. was
removed !
now you have a dizzy from a 1978 duel point setup with only
1 point .

In a normal 78 spider you would need a Resistor on the coil !
since you don't have one because of the Electronic Dizzy Spider
setup A resistor would need to be added orrrrr I would think the
coil you have should be fine ??? . Now about the internal resistor coil
i would believe that could get the job done as a all in 1 unit but is
this the proper coil for points ?


Daniel

[jr]

I can get a coil for a 78, I had not thought that the coil for the 79 would make a difference, but i will set it up a 78 with an external resistor as required, and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for all the help.

[So Cal Mark]

I'd have to research specs to be accurate, but the coils for the 2 systems have different resistances. The only Spiders I remember with an external resistor on the coil were the early ones with the coil mounted on the left fenderwell