crank seal
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wengr
crank seal
Does this crank seal installation seem ok? the engine as you face the front rotates clockwise? the seal has an arrow on it that I assumed indicates direction of crank rotation and I installed with the arrow pointing clockwise. the reason I question it is because the sealing lip seems very close to the end of the crank. the lip points in and the seal is seated as far as it can go in the cover. there is minimal rtv on the cover gasket where before there was none but the difference seems much greater than that. What do you think?
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manoa matt
- Posts: 3442
- Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 4:28 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Fiat 124 Spider 1800
- Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
Re: crank seal
It looks right. Before you go full steam ahead install the cogged drive pulley, the v belt pulley, and the nut. Rotate the engine a few times, remove and check that the cogged drive pulley is not contacting the seal surface or tearing the seal. Others have had this problem, but it was attributed to a fault in the seal installation as the seal carrier housing was installed over the crankshaft. The seal lip was pushed out and got torn when it was pinched between the cogged pulley.
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baltobernie
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: crank seal
Sometimes the contact point on the journal gets buggered by a failed seal; the rubber wears thru and the spring scores a groove in the journal. To avoid replacing or welding/machining the crankshaft, you can either build up the carrier with gaskets, or fly cut the carrier to relocate the contact of the new seal "inside" or "outside" the damaged area. A PO may have done this to your engine. I'm facing this problem myself, with a newly-rebuilt engine 
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TulsaSpider
- Posts: 1547
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 7:33 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 Spyder 124 2L
- Location: Tulsa, Ok
Re: crank seal
On this subject. I just got my crank back from the shop where it was turned to .20 over. I was inspecting it and noticed that I do have a small groove on the rear, well it's kind of noticeable only on one side of the crank. I cannot catch a fingernail on it, it's hard to feel, but it's there visually. I had looked at it before but I guess I missed it. The front surface is good. So any suggestions? As I read above to jockey the location of the seal a tiny amount makes sense to move the contact point. Double the gaskets to accomplish this? On the incorrect installation, what is the correct method or do you just need to make sure the seal is in it's proper place before moving ahead?
1978 Spyder 1800 make that 2L! Finally making real progress!
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majicwrench
Re: crank seal
Wengr,
the seal install looks fine. The outer sealing lip is basicly just a dust seal, the real sealing takes place at the inner lip, the one with the garter spring.
The silicone oozing out of everywhere does not look so good. There is no reason to use that much sealer.
Tulsa spider, if you cannot catch a fingernail in it I would not worry. The seal is rubber, flexable and will still seal. I would not double gasket anything.
Keith
the seal install looks fine. The outer sealing lip is basicly just a dust seal, the real sealing takes place at the inner lip, the one with the garter spring.
The silicone oozing out of everywhere does not look so good. There is no reason to use that much sealer.
Tulsa spider, if you cannot catch a fingernail in it I would not worry. The seal is rubber, flexable and will still seal. I would not double gasket anything.
Keith