Fluid change quick question

[Flyingthere]

I just changed my transmission and differential oil with Vicks premium. I made the assumption that the Vicks bottles held 1 quart as listed but I am wondering if they were a little overfilled. I filled both until they were overflowing and still had a little left over. On the transmission about a cup or more and who knows for sure on the differential as it holds 1.4 quarts and I had two 2 quart bottles.

Did I miss something or should I feel like they are both filled to the correct levels?

I am going to take it to my local quick lube for the oil change as I want them to lube it. I have only seen two grease fittings on the front ball joints, does anybody know of others and if so would you tell me where? I will share the info with the pit guy. I have a ’78 124.

[pope]

You know that the trans oil and differential are different oils. They are not to be mixed.
Trans takes about 1 2/3qts., so you should have about a cup left over.

I dont like the idea of you taking it to a quick change place, unless you know exactly what oil you will let then put in. For starters, make sure it is Shell Rotella 15w-40 oil. Do a search on the site for oil recommendations to familiarize yourself with them. These engines can not take the modern oils for new cars.
Check if your u-joints have fittings, there is a fitting at the end of the trans where the drive shaft fits in that should be greased. Most of the ball joints and steering nuckels are sealed units.
Good luck, any questions...just ask

[Flyingthere]

Thanks Pope, I did not mix the oils in fact I wrote on the bottles what was what to ensure I did not mix something up. I had a conversation with the quick lube owner the other day and he said it was okay to bring my own oil and I will take him the shell. He offered to do the trans and differential for $20.00 each if I brought in the fluids. I thought about it but decided to just do it myself at least the first time. The transmission was a real experience.

[pope]

Instead of Quick Lube they should call it Quick Cash!

I'll bet that he doesnt have SAE90 GL-1 non EP oil for your transmission anyways. I was sure that Vicks got you the right stuff anyways, but its sometimes good to ask.

[Flyingthere]

Took him about 12 nano seconds to say that they did not have the GL-1 non EP oil but if I had some he would do the work for me. Reminded me of the old "hum a few bars...". anyway he is a good guy, knows his cars and likes to chat over a cup of coffee, not much of that any more.

[danaspider]

Good tips to do it your self. You may not put in as much as the book says, depending on how long you really let it drain. Cold weather and just a quick pull of the drain plug and wiating for it to stop may not drain completely. So when refilling may not take as much as stated in the book.

If you filled to where starting to come out then you are at the right levels.

[Curly]

A point of interest along the same lines - not Fiat related however.
I changed all the fluids in my daily driver/tow wagon recently during a major service - engine, gearbox, transfer box, front diff, rear diff, power steering, coolant and brake fluid - and found it incredible that there was no drain plug on the rear axle or power steering. To do the rear axle you have to undo the Panhard rod and about 10 bolts on the rear of the diff and remove a large finned alloy cover to let the oil out. That then means cleaning off all the old gasket goo from the cover and the diff housing before resealing and filling it. The Power steering is even worse, the local dealer explained the way to do it was to remove the resevoir by undoing the hoses to the pump and the rack, then start the engine and let the rest of the fluid pump itself out all over the engine compartment and floor - Incredibly messy but that's apparently the way it's done.
It makes doing the job in the 124s a dream.

[manoa matt]

Curly,

The fined alloy cover would be simple to drill and tap a drain plug into. Drill the hole from the inside and then remove the fin material around the hole on the outside.

I've done a lot of power steering work on my Jeep. It's not good to run the pump dry. I usually suck as much old fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster, then disconnect the low pressure return hose at the gear box, and let the rest of the old fluid drain out. Clamp the hose off and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Take a clear vinyl hose and attach it to the open return line port on the gear box/rack and let it hang into a container. Briefly start the engine and turn it off quickly. As the belt turns the pump, it will circulate new fluid through the gear box and push it out the return line. When it runs clear remove the vinyl tubing and hook the existing return line back up. The most important thing is to somewhat overfill the reservoir before you bump the engine or have someone bump the engine while you pour fluid in the reservoir as it circulates pretty quick.