motor oil

[racydave]

Thats not the first time GM has changed the engine oil supplement, I have always had good sucess with it.

[htchevyii]

Oh ya, if you buy a gallon, be careful not to pour it too fast! I stuck the jug in the fill hole and it overflowed and made a horrible mess of my clean engine. Even when I used a funnel and went slower I had a close call.

[baltobernie]

I got a pamphlet the other day from these guys: http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/hotrod/index.html It appears that the "high zinc movement" is becoming more popular. I like the idea of a full-synthetic motor oil made for flat-tappet engines. This company also makes a special break-in oil, which is usually hard-to-find. http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/produc ... ilder.html I'm not, however, too thrilled about spending $8/ quart for the stuff. I think I'll stick with Rotella, but I urge all of you to buy these products, because the Washington Redskins are not only one of the worst teams in pro football, they're also $2.9 million over the salary cap

[So Cal Mark]

We're using the break-in oil as well at the Gibbs assembly lube. I think it's good stuff, but I'm also sticking with Rotella for engine oil

[majicwrench]

Interesting discussion. Do Fiats have a problem with cam or tappet wear??
Keith

[So Cal Mark]

yes, virtually every engine I've disassembled over the last couple of years has at least one flat cam lobe

[So Cal Mark]

another update; it seems lots of mfgs are seeing the potential of zinc additives. ZDDP Oil Additive can be added to any engine oil to provide zinc levels of SF oil specs from 1988. It comes in a 4 oz bottle and that's enough for any 4 or 5 qt system. Their website is http://www.zddpoiladditive.com and pn is 909-392-8440

[jppatin]

Howdy,

Ok, after reading all the Info on motor oils I am still lost. Is there a general consensus on witch oil is best to use on an old enginge?

Mark, any good advice? Should I be using a full synthetic, half synthetic, or deisel?

Thanks

[pope]

Its a pretty safe bet that Shell Rotella 15w-40 is the oil to use. After that, it depends on how much money you want to spend on going synthetic.

[karhawk]

I will give my two cents to this thread, Castrol GTX for high mileage engines has the zinc additive as well, the zinc adds some cushion to the flat tappets in old push rod engines and our Fiat engines. I believe you can also buy the zinc product as an additive to add to your favorite oil.

Chris
Oakland, CA.

[kilrwail]

Here's another 2 cents. I've used Castrol GTX 20w-50 in my Spider for at least 25 years with outstanding results. In my Porsche I use Valvoline Premium Blue deisel oil 15w-40, which has 1314 ppm P and 1838 ppm Zn. My mechanic uses Brad Penn oil for breaking in rebuilt engines as well as ongoing application, which has very high concentrations of both Zn and P, varying according to the weight chosen.

[natalburga78]

Hi guys. I have a question. Over eight months ago I changed the engine oil in my 79 spider. The next day I took the car on a trip to our place ustate and it has been in the garage since then. I am not planning to drive it now in the winter, but I was thinking that it has been a long time since I changed the oil last. I used 10w40 Castrol synthetic and Fram Oil filter. I have know that every 3,000 miles or 3 months the oil needs to be changed, but I have never not driven the 3000 miles in the past. Is this true even when you drove the car only one day? who can tell me an asnwer to this question?
thanks guys!
LUIS

[So Cal Mark]

moisture accumulates over time, and with the engine not being started it doesn't get evaporated. I'd certainly change it if the car sits for a year

[natalburga78]

THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE RESPONSE. I WILL PREPARE NEW OIL AND FILTER FOR THE SPRING!!