Headbolts Torque

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rshimp
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Your car is a: 1980 fiat Pininfarina spider 2000

Headbolts Torque

Post by rshimp »

I'm going to rebuild the engine out of my 1980 spider 2000 FI and I was wondering where to find torque specs for head bolts and what not. I saw a website say that the head bolts should be torqued to 7.5 kgm which is about 53-foot pounds. That could be right but when I took them out it took a lot more than 53 foot-pounds to remove.
Nut124
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Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider 1800

Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by Nut124 »

My copy of a shop manual says: 83Nm, 61ft-lbs, 8.5kgm.

The original bolts are a bad design and will stretch easily becoming unusable. The problem is that the shank is not waisted and all the clamping torque hits the 1/2" or so of free thread, stretching it. Compare the bolts end to end, mating the threads. Look for any evidence of stretching in the free thread, threads not mating perfectly. Or check with a matching nut. Discard.

I have been using the waisted shank, long free thread torx head bolts and like them better. These may have a different spec. Check w seller.

When torquing, do it in steps and keep track of torque development vs turning angle at each step. If torque does not increase consistently with turning angle, at the last step, then the bolt has yielded.
wetminkey
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by wetminkey »

GOSH!! Do what I did,...REPLACE your head bolts with a system that is easy to use, and works right:
https://autoricambi.us/high-performance ... idden=true
Solved my head gasket leak problem permanently.
1988 Mazda RX-7
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focodave
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by focodave »

wetminkey wrote:GOSH!! Do what I did,...REPLACE your head bolts with a system that is easy to use, and works right:
https://autoricambi.us/high-performance ... idden=true
Solved my head gasket leak problem permanently.
+1.
I did the exact same thing as wetminkey.
Blew a head gasket about 2000 miles ago.
Love the new studs -- retorqued them after 500 miles -- very pleased with them -- you will be too -- best upgrade you can do while you are in the mode of working on your head bolts.
PLEASE do this upgrade -- the ROI is well worth it!
1980 Spider 2000 F.I. (my hobby)
1970 MGB GT (my other hobby)
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Nut124
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by Nut124 »

wetminkey wrote:GOSH!! Do what I did,...REPLACE your head bolts with a system that is easy to use, and works right:
https://autoricambi.us/high-performance ... idden=true
Solved my head gasket leak problem permanently.
What final torque value did you torque to?

I tried a set of studs and got coolant leak thru the top nut threads. Some of the head bolt threads in the block are wet, open into coolant.

Did you use thread sealant on the studs?
tima01864
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by tima01864 »

I used this sealant on the head bolts, Was recommended
Loctite 1158514 Head Bolt and Water Jacket Sealant, 50-milliliter Tube
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focodave
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by focodave »

Yep.
Loctite 1158514 is the stuff you must use.

I torqued to 55 ft/lbs, on the first go around.
On the re-torque, after 500 miles, I torqued to 61 ft/lbs.
1980 Spider 2000 F.I. (my hobby)
1970 MGB GT (my other hobby)
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wetminkey
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by wetminkey »

The threads of the head bolts enter coolant-filled 'water-jackets' in the engine block and WILL leak coolant if thread sealer is not used.
The head stud kits come with proper torque specs from the manufacturer. Studs require lower final torques than bolts.
I did exactly what focodave did,...55ftlbs, and then 61ftlbs after some engine time.
BTW,...HOWDY focodave!!
Todd.
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RRoller123
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by RRoller123 »

This summarizes what bolt goes where, and what it is exposed to:

Image
'80 FI Spider 2000
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18Fiatsandcounting
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by 18Fiatsandcounting »

Thanks for the chart, Roller! Do you (or anyone else) have a similar chart for the other engine sizes? The reason I ask is that I don't recall my 1438 or 1608 head bolts going into the coolant gallery, although they do tend to get gummed up with age (just not with coolant). My memory could be wrong on this, and I put thread sealant on them anyway to keep them from locking up.

The other data seems correct. The other ones that I have seen differences with are the 4 bolts that hold the water pump to the block, in that some claimed these went into the coolant gallery whereas my smaller engines seem to have blind bolt holes.

-Bryan
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RRoller123
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by RRoller123 »

I only have this one, made it for my 2L engine.
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
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phaetn
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Re: Headbolts Torque

Post by phaetn »

I have the same studs, too, bought from Allison's a few years ago. They offer better clamping force than head bolts. I went to them to chase down a head leak that may, in fact, have been coolant getting drawn into #4 intake passage rather than a head gasket sealing issue. Neverthless, I like them.

One time I forgot to use a thread sealant and coolant weeped out of the nuts at the top (having made its way up the threads) as the bottom threads are in a coolant passage. No biggie. I just took them out one by one and applied sealant. I think it was some kind of Permatex sealant.

I lost my torque spec sheet for them so just went to 61 lb/ft, tightening in three stages (20, 40, 61 respectively). This time I just used RTV silicone on the bottom threads. Should be fine.

Cheers,
phaetn
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