sounds soooooo good!

[jskinner96]

I've been renovating the interior over the last few months and I decided to send the AFM to FIC while I had her down for a few months. Prior to the interior restoration the engine was running pretty good. Had a bit of a "puff" on idle that sounded like it wasn't quite right. I got the AFM back and installed it and decided to test it before I put the seats back in. It starts and sounds even better than before for about 5 seconds then it dies. I started checking everything and the first thing that I thought of is that I may have messed up wiring since I restored most of the interior. I checked 86a on the duel relay and there is no power with the key at run. I checked the fuel pump power with someone moving the flap when I have the key at run and I get zero. I think I may have cut a wire. Should I be getting some power at 86a on the duel relay? thanks

[jskinner96]

still working through this but no luck. No power at the fuel pump, it doesn't come on when the engine comes on for 3-5 seconds. No power at the red wire terminal 50 at the ignition but power to the pink, brown and blue when they're supposed to have power. I found in another post showing how to test the different functions of the fuel relay. It says to check voltage to the pump check 88d and ground and start the car and I should get power but I get nothing from that. When the car starts for 3-5 seconds the fuel pump never kicks on either. If I'm not getting that power at the red wire on the switch what should I chase down from there? All the fuses are good, inline fuse is good can't find any wires that look bad/loose/cut. Thanks

[Nut124]

Skinner, sorry, not much help here. Anybody?

Sounds like you really need a wiring diagram. I have no FI experience. But, I did have to troubleshoot and rewire just about the entire harness in the dash after the cigarette lighter assy shorted one night years ago. The lighter circuit is not fused and has a very heavy gauge wire. Burned up everything in contact.

I had to do it one circuit at a time with a mostly accurate wiring diagram. It could take some time and patience.

Good luck.

[jskinner96]

Thanks. I actually have the original wiring diagram that came with the car in the owner's manual. Interesting about the cigarette lighter because I did have all the dash pulled out while I was restoring the interior. My original thought was that I messed up some kind of wire running back there but I was trying to see if I could narrow it down to what was causing the lack of voltage in that ignition switch. Thanks for the help.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Like Nut124, I'm kinda at a loss as to how to help as my experience with spiders goes up to 1978 and very little beyond that. Since the car worked before the interior restoration and does not work after, there's probably a loose connector behind the dash somewhere, or a wire that didn't get reconnected, or two connectors reversed or the like. It sounds like you're pretty good at voltage tracing, so my only suggestion is to work through the wiring diagram against the wiring in the car and find where you're losing the 12 volt signals, especially to the fuel pump (or relay). Keep an eye out for wire colors that don't match the diagram.

Sorry I can't be of more help.

-Bryan

[jskinner96]

Thanks Bryan. I think you may be right. I likely need to pull the dash back out and start looking at what I could have mucked up in there. That's the only thing that makes sense to me that I could have changed. I appreciate the help.

[tima01864]

I do not know how it was done. My fuel pump bypasses the Afm switch and runs with the key on start. I think this hack bypasses the dual relay as well. Would like to hear from someone how this was done. May be a solution to your issue?

[RRoller123]

Same with mine. Common modification is to bypass the dual relay and power the fuel pump on when the key is "ON". It presents a safety issue in the event of an accident, so many who do or keep this modification add an inertial shutoff switch to the power line going to the pump. There are some threads on the forum about this, including one from me regarding adding the switch.

[tima01864]

How can you bypass to get power to the pump?

[RRoller123]

You just take a lead from one of the "Hot When ON" terminals of the IGN switch and run it (fused) back to an inertial shutoff switch, and then to the pump. Or take power off the fuse block from a similar "hot when on" location. Requires branching from whatever that fuse actually serves.

Here's my inertial shutoff switch mounted VERTICALLY on the rear bulkhead in the trunk.

[tima01864]

Must be how mine is wired, Red wire/ power to the green wire to the fuel pump. Green wire was cut and spliced.

[RRoller123]

We need to make sure that the line is fused.

[jskinner96]

Getting a little worried as I got lost in about 3 hours of posts on some Alpha posts that had this exact same problem and there was never a fix from several people having the same issue. Seems like they went though the long list of everything to check and got the same result. Hopefully I'll have some time this weekend to get out there and pull the dash out and see if I messed up some wires in there but other than that I'm running into a dead end.

[tima01864]

Guess what I am asking does your pump run? There is a way to get power to your FP bypassing the relay and AFM.

[jskinner96]

thank you Tima. I appreciate that. The fuel pump is not running. I'd like to take a run at getting everything to work as it should before I try and bypass things. It may very well come to that but I'd like to get it back to how it was running first. Thanks again.