Center link removal?

[wetminkey]

I don't actually need to, but I would like to (it's 40+ years old) replace my center link (drag link). Tie rod end breaker will not fit properly,...what have you guys/gals used to break the center link (drag link) ends?
Thanks in advance,
Todd.

[davidbruce]

Funny, I just went through this. I'm currently doing all my suspension bushings. To remove the outer tie rod ends I removed the nut from the stud. Placed a 4 pound sledge on the back side of the socket and struck the front side of the socket with a large ball pein and the resulting blows "shocked" the stud out. It did take quite a few blows but my tie rod ends are good so I didn't want to damage the boots or threads. I also dont like using heat on steering components. Several YouTube videos on this. They all made it look easier than it was for me but they did finally pop out.

[Nut124]

The steering center link? What a pain!

Luckily, a replacement is only $70 or so. I had a hell of a time removing mine. I ended up getting a ball joint fork tool from Harbor Freight. I just used it to hammer until it finally came loose. Had exhausted all other tricks. Did not want to put heat on the steering arms. Wrecked the rubber boot, but had planned on replacing the link.

Some folks say they get it off by putting, holding a heavy back stop, piece of steel, under the steering arm while using a hammer to hit the nut hard from the top side. Did not work for me but access is cumbersome or I did not know how to.

[wetminkey]

I prefer pullers and 'breaker tools', and do not like to hammer on suspension joints. I do not use 'pickle forks', other than in combination with a 'breaker', or puller. When I mention "heat", I mean to warm the metal with a propane torch, not heat it red-hot with acetylene,...
Passenger's outer tie rod end took removal from the car (rod, with the steering knuckle still attached), tie rod breaker in place (torqued as much as reasonable), lengthy penetrating oil soak, a borrowed pickle fork pounded in place, and some gentle heat from my torch. Then I gave the steering arm end one good wack with my larger ball pein, and it finally came apart. I put the tie rod end in the car only twenty years ago, and it froze that badly,...
Thanks guys. I'll try a counterweight behind the idler arm and pitman arm,...I've got full access, since the engine bay is empty right now,...
I won't worry about boot damage, or gumming up the joint threads since the entire bar will be replaced, which includes the joints, I just want to ensure that I don't damage my steering idler and gearbox,...
Might even try my ball joint tool first,...it may fit. I'll post again with what I did to get it out,...
Wish me luck!
Oh, and P.S.,...I do not remove the nut from the stud when I 'break' joints, I screw it out until it sits flush at the top of the bolt - it will then protect the threads while you remove the joint, either with a hammer or a joint breaker.

[wetminkey]

I found that I could not get a ball joint breaker to fit between the Pitman arm and the center link joint boot today,...
I REALLY hate hammering on steering components, but the counterweight method won't hurt anything, and THAT'S what worked today,...
Didn't want to hurt the thing (since I really didn't think I would be able to get it out!), so I set my 3lb sledge underneath the Pitman arm, just behind the center link joint, and gave the nut/stud a 'good' rap with my biggest ball pein (not a lot of power, just a good hit), and nothing happened. So, I moved the 3lb sledge just in front of the joint and hit the nut/stud one more time and the joint fell loose. I was amazed for a moment, and then repeated the exact same process on the idler side of the link,...same result! Ya gotta luv that,...
The 'tincture of time' (for penetrating oil to work) is usually best to 'break' tie rod joints and ball joints! That, and a couple of good joint 'breakers',...
My new center link is on the way,...! Full steering and suspension rebuild!
Hope this info helps some other folks with this same question!
Todd.