Picture of timing marks aligned wanted,...

[wetminkey]

I was wondering if anyone could post a picture of passenger-side timing marks aligned on a 2 liter?
Mine's a '79, and does not have it's crankshaft timing pointer,...
Thanks!

[PaulC]

How about this

[PaulC]

This is with dizzy pointing to #4 terminal and both cam pulley holes aligned with the bosses on the cam housings.

[wetminkey]

Thank you, Paul! That was fast,...
I'm trying to decide if I want to place tension on this new timing belt.
Further description is all with both cams at their alignment marks, and rotor pointing +/- at number four distributor cap contact.

Center of white mark is incorrect,...must be just slightly BTDC - don't ask how I know,...
TDC #4 (using a wooden pencil as a gauge) begins at the center of the white mark and ends at the solid black line.
Timing belt will not mesh with the crank cogs when aligned to the solid black line, but it will, with the crank backed up to the black dotted line.
It appears to be about 20 -30 degrees beyond where your marks are (see bolt location/mark location in my pic). Your's is between the bolt locations, mine is above,...deepens the mystery even more. Maybe my crank pulley is not the stock one,...
I'll have to go with my 'pencil mapping' of TDC.
Thanks again, Paul!

[wetminkey]

More reasons to suspect the pulley mark locations: my pulley has an unused pulley surface in front of, and one behind, the single, large surface that I use for alternator/water pump.
Could be for emissions air pump, and,...well, air conditioning, perhaps?

[focodave]

Todd,

Don't overthink it.
Simply find TDC of with your pencil in the hole and mark that location somehow.
Then line up your cam gears and auxiliary shaft pulley properly, get the belt on, and you are good to go.
Do not add any more tension than what the spring provides on its own after you loosen the bolt to release the tensioner pulley. It will contact the belt with the proper tension as dictated by the spring.

Dave

[focodave]

Of course, turn the engine by hand, 2 revolutions, after you have installed the belt and allowed the tensioner spring to do its thing -- then tighten the tensioner bracket bolt.
Do not turn the engine backwards during this process as this will introduce slack into the belt and cause it to jump timing.

[wetminkey]

Thanks, Dave.
Got the rest just fine. BUT, I marked everything before removing the old belt, and all marks aligned properly after a full turn by hand with the new belt. Engine ran magnificent at idle, rev'ed nicely,...ran like CRAP under any load. Marks aligned again perfectly when I stopped the engine before removing the belt this time. But I believe that I found the crank to be 'behind' the cams by one crankshaft belt-cog.
None the less,...here goes. I'll release the tension and turn it by hand.
Thanks again, guys. Shows that I should have 'dialed in' the crank (with the pencil) the first time. You know what assuming will do for you,...I should know better.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Well, here's what I do with regard to timing belts: 1) Remove the timing belt. 2) By hand, and using a long screwdriver inserted into the #1 spark plug hole, turn the crankshaft until the #1 cylinder is right at TDC. 3) Orient the two camshaft pulleys so that their holes line up with the small metal boss on the housing. 4) Orient the distributor rotor so that it has just passed firing on the #4 sparkplug, 5) Slip the timing belt on, and this may involve moving the crankshaft very slightly to get the timing belt cogs to line up. 6) Rotate the engine by hand one or two revolutions to check for any issues. 7) Pull a bit on the timing belt tensioner to make sure it is really fully "tensioned". Tighten the two nuts on the timing belt tensioner. 9) Put everything back (spark plugs, coolant hoses, etc.), and 10) Fire that bad boy up and enjoy.

Personally, and this is just me, but I don't pay much attention to the crankshaft timing marks, but rather tune by how the engine sounds and performs. If I had to guess, I would think this is about 12 degrees BTDC at idle and about 35-40 degrees BTDC at 4000 rpm or so, but again, just a guess. Depending on your model year (cams, carb, emission controls, etc.), your experience may be different.

-Bryan

[wetminkey]

Exactly, Bryan,...your step #2, is exactly what I refer to when I mention "the wooden pencil".
Somehow, long ago, I learned to use an unsharpened, wood pencil, since it's nearly impossible to damage spark plug threads or the piston (or loose!) while moving the engine by hand,...
Of course, since the car was running, I thought that the static marking of everything at rest would accomplish the task (without "dialing in' the crankshaft with my pencil) so I moved nothing and installed the belt. Didn't work, and I still have NO idea why,...
But I know where the crank is THIS time, and have a proper TDC mark for ignition timing on the side of the engine's lower housing.
Thanks, guys!

[wetminkey]

Total waste of time,...belt installation must have been proper to begin with. Engine starts/idles/warms fine,...has no rev over about 2500,...cannot be driven under load.
Back at square one,...
Black, sooty spark plugs usually mean (to me), a filthy rich carb.
The DFEV/single plane intake is new and the engine has not run particularly well, since it's addition. I have to suspect it,...Weber states that "the jetting will be appropriate", but I'm at altitude.
2000cc, single-plane intake and 32/36 DFEV, this engine ought to RUN!
Anyone of any idea of how I can find out what my jetting ought to be at 5000 ft.? Contact Redline, perhaps,...?
Thank you in advance, Todd.

[tima01864]

Would this help? The article references your carb.

https://www.racetep.com/manufacturer/ca ... carbs.html

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPage ... titude.pdf

[focodave]

Todd,

Some thoughts:
1) The Weber, new and out of the box, is usually jetted for a much larger 6-cyl engine of around 3.0 to 3.5 litres.
2) As you know, at altitude the engine will inherently run rich unless you change jetting of the carb.
3) You know the old saying that 99% of carb problems are really ignition-related. Have you put a timing light on the engine to make sure you have the proper "all-in" advance at greater than 2500 RPM?

My gut would tell me that this is something simple -- it just needs some methodic troubleshooting.
You should take the top plate off the carb and see what jets are in there. I am quite sure they are larger than they need to be, but I am still thinking you should check your ignition system before diving in too deep in the carb. Checking the all-in timing would be my first check.

Dave

[wetminkey]

Thanks, Dave,...been through the ignition before all this happened,...ran perfectly.
Right now my timing is set to about 12 BTDC (hard to tell for sure since I have no marks other than my TDC mark) , and I can watch a nice advance ('cause the engine will rev to about 2500 - 3000 while parked, but in-gear and down the road, rpms drop terribly at/or above that).
Car ran well before the DFEV. That is until it's old ADHA would warm up, then idle was poor,...but car drove OK - to Ft Collins and back, for new exhaust at Ken's,...it's only problem then was just the poor seal on the head gasket. And the crappy ADHA/emissions garbage that no longer worked right, and cannot be rebuilt,...
I swapped for the DFEV/single plane, and then replaced the head gasket without making the car driveable beforehand. Too many changes at once to make Dx easy,...
I've armed myself with a tremendous amount of jetting knowledge just this morning. Thanks for the links, tima01864! I also found a couple of good ones:
Standard jetting table https://www.carbparts.eu/jetting_table
A pictorial with some guide-points https://toyotaminis.com/forum/threads/w ... hers.5834/
And I learned a couple of good guidelines. Weber secondaries are smaller than primaries, a common combination is 140/135 (1.4 mm/1.35 mm) main with 50/45 (0.5 mm/0.45 mm) idle jets, and the jet 'pairs' are usually +/- 5 (0.5 mm).
Redline has a jetting kit for about $60, I believe.
A WHOLE new adventure! Time for a new thread,...