degreeing in performance cams
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degreeing in performance cams
I have a set of Faza 35/75 cams in my engine. I had them dialed in years ago and it made quite a difference in performance. Since rebuilding my engine however, I am not getting the same kind of aggressiveness out of this new engine with same cams. Could it be the way I have set up my ignition timing ? I have it set at 10 deg . Should I be setting it up any different to get more low end torque ?
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
You know that you have to redo the degree timing of the cam everytime you remove the belt?
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
How is this accomplished? Degreeing the cams.
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
Firstly, I apologise for starting this thread in the wrong category ,ooops lol.
setting the cam timing is different than setting ignition timing. I don't know how to do this without adjustable cam pullies,but I know it helps with dialing in performance. Can I also set ignition timing more advanced than 10 deg btdc to gain performance ?
setting the cam timing is different than setting ignition timing. I don't know how to do this without adjustable cam pullies,but I know it helps with dialing in performance. Can I also set ignition timing more advanced than 10 deg btdc to gain performance ?
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
Re: Adjustable Cam Gears
Postby ORFORD2004 » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:58 pm
I'm not Guy Croft but that's the way I did it:
I don't see the need for timing marks on the pulley. For timing my cams i have to find the lobe center of the cam and be shure that the crank was at 110 degrees. you need a dial indicator and a degree Wheel for that job.
The way i did it is you find the real TDC. The way to do it is to use the infamous screwdriver method to find TDC.
Then you install your degree wheel on the flywheel and put a piece of wire attach to the engine to 0 degree.
Next is to put the dial indicator in the plug hole. Not much of steel in that area for my magnetic base so i made a steel bracket that use the valve cover bolts to old steady. So you install your dial indicator so you have some pressure on the dial. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwwise. When you read let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when you are .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 355 and 3. You have to move your pointer 1 degree up to 4 so the reading will be 356 and 4. Equal from the zero. From now the pointer or the degree wheel can't move. Retest to be shure. Now you have your true TDC.
Now you have to find the lobe center of the cam. For that you have to install the dial indicator 90 degrees from the valve tappet and clear the lobe rotation. The trick i found, sorry for the purist was to use electric tape and a piece of steel wire at the end of my dial indicator because my needle was to big to fit on the side of the cam and clearing the lobe. When there is full pressure to the tappet, you install your dial indicator whit some pressure on it. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwise. when the valve start closing let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when the valve is .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 84 and 134, you take 134-84=50/2=25. So 25+84=109. Your lobe center is at 109 degree and you want 110. If you move to 85 you will read 135 also. So 135-85=50/2=25. So 85+25=110. So you set your degree wheel to 85 degree and using the adjustable pulley turn back the dial indicator to .002 when the crank is at 85 degree. Retest and you should read 85 and 135. Now your lobe center is at 110 degree.
Same thing for the other side.
Postby ORFORD2004 » Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:58 pm
I'm not Guy Croft but that's the way I did it:
I don't see the need for timing marks on the pulley. For timing my cams i have to find the lobe center of the cam and be shure that the crank was at 110 degrees. you need a dial indicator and a degree Wheel for that job.
The way i did it is you find the real TDC. The way to do it is to use the infamous screwdriver method to find TDC.
Then you install your degree wheel on the flywheel and put a piece of wire attach to the engine to 0 degree.
Next is to put the dial indicator in the plug hole. Not much of steel in that area for my magnetic base so i made a steel bracket that use the valve cover bolts to old steady. So you install your dial indicator so you have some pressure on the dial. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwwise. When you read let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when you are .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 355 and 3. You have to move your pointer 1 degree up to 4 so the reading will be 356 and 4. Equal from the zero. From now the pointer or the degree wheel can't move. Retest to be shure. Now you have your true TDC.
Now you have to find the lobe center of the cam. For that you have to install the dial indicator 90 degrees from the valve tappet and clear the lobe rotation. The trick i found, sorry for the purist was to use electric tape and a piece of steel wire at the end of my dial indicator because my needle was to big to fit on the side of the cam and clearing the lobe. When there is full pressure to the tappet, you install your dial indicator whit some pressure on it. Set to 0 and turn the crank clockwise. when the valve start closing let's say .002, note the number on the degree Wheel. Continue turning and when the valve is .002 before the 0 you set, note the number on the degree Wheel. For example if you read 84 and 134, you take 134-84=50/2=25. So 25+84=109. Your lobe center is at 109 degree and you want 110. If you move to 85 you will read 135 also. So 135-85=50/2=25. So 85+25=110. So you set your degree wheel to 85 degree and using the adjustable pulley turn back the dial indicator to .002 when the crank is at 85 degree. Retest and you should read 85 and 135. Now your lobe center is at 110 degree.
Same thing for the other side.
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
Thanks for that detailed reply ! Unfortunately it is way above my comprehension,,lol
- aj81spider
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
That clears a lot up. One thing I didn't get was what you attached your dial indicator to when measuring the cams. I think I understand that it wasn't long enough so you extended it with wire and tape, but how did you hold it in position 90 degrees from the tappet?
I'm also assuming you are measuring on cylinder 4?
I'm also assuming you are measuring on cylinder 4?
A.J.
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)
1974 Fiat 124 Spider
2006 Corvette
1981 Spider 2000 (sold 2013 - never should have sold that car)
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Re: degreeing in performance cams
You need something stiff and small because you don't have enough place to use the dial rod. So i tape a piece of steel wire to the rod. You can use glue like epoxy. The magnetic base of the dial indicator have 2 pivots so you are able to be 90 degrees from the shim.
Why do you want to use the cylinder near the firewall when 1 and 4 are connected together? So no i use number 1.
Why do you want to use the cylinder near the firewall when 1 and 4 are connected together? So no i use number 1.