Ignition
- NGK
- Patron 2019
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:40 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 124 fiat spider 2000
- Location: Sylvania GA
Ignition
I recently purchased a 79 spider 2000 it wasn't starting to begin with fixed that and it was running perfect but then out of the blue it won't turn off I can turn the key to off and pull it out and it will keep running and I can still drive it the only differnece is turns of all my eltrical stuf such as gas pump and other things like that. I've been turning it off by pulling the plug from the starter to coil but I really want to get it fixed this is getting really frustrating.
- RRoller123
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 8179
- Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2011 2:04 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 FI SPIDER 2000
- Location: SAGAMORE BEACH, MA USA
Re: Ignition
Ignition switch is likely pooched! Lots of threads about this here, some rebuild the original switch because it is higher quality than the available after-market Russian Lada switch. The wiring on the Russian switch is a little different, but just in where you plug on the terminals.
I had the "dreaded click of death" (the opposite problem of yours), traced it to the first downstream connector, but eventually my ignition switch again started the same problem. Replaced it with the Russian one from one of our vendors (AR is excellent in my personal opinion).
I think the kerfuffle regarding the Russian switch is probably somewhat overblown, (endless discussion here about it) mine has been installed for about a year completely trouble free, and most of them will likely last for many, many years, certainly in hobby car frequency of use.
Replacing the switch is a little odd, it is held in by a locking mechanism that is not intuitive. Remove the wires on back, remove the 2 tiny locking screws on either side, then you have to turn the key and push in on the side of the switch barrel, to disengage the lock in the ignition switch holder, and pull it straight out the front. There is a page in the manual that describes this, but I have not scanned it yet. Maybe someone else has.
Here is a diagram of the Russian switch wiring. Others may chime in with more info as well, of course. The right side wire colors are what is in my 80, original to the best of my knowledge.
Another suggestion is, when swapping a new switch, connect the wires directly and eliminate C31, it is there only for convenience, and adds nothing but another potential failure point to the system. I put them together individually with cleaned FastOns and shrink wrap to hold it all in place.
I had the "dreaded click of death" (the opposite problem of yours), traced it to the first downstream connector, but eventually my ignition switch again started the same problem. Replaced it with the Russian one from one of our vendors (AR is excellent in my personal opinion).
I think the kerfuffle regarding the Russian switch is probably somewhat overblown, (endless discussion here about it) mine has been installed for about a year completely trouble free, and most of them will likely last for many, many years, certainly in hobby car frequency of use.
Replacing the switch is a little odd, it is held in by a locking mechanism that is not intuitive. Remove the wires on back, remove the 2 tiny locking screws on either side, then you have to turn the key and push in on the side of the switch barrel, to disengage the lock in the ignition switch holder, and pull it straight out the front. There is a page in the manual that describes this, but I have not scanned it yet. Maybe someone else has.
Here is a diagram of the Russian switch wiring. Others may chime in with more info as well, of course. The right side wire colors are what is in my 80, original to the best of my knowledge.
Another suggestion is, when swapping a new switch, connect the wires directly and eliminate C31, it is there only for convenience, and adds nothing but another potential failure point to the system. I put them together individually with cleaned FastOns and shrink wrap to hold it all in place.
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: Ignition
The original ignition switch was manufactured by Sipea and the name will appear stamped in the shinny cover where you insert the key. The Lada replacement switch will have Roman numerals stamped into the shinny cover identifying the switch positions. If you have a Lada switch it should be connected per RRoller's diagram.
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- Patron 2020
- Posts: 3466
- Joined: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:00 pm
- Your car is a: 1973 Spider [sold]
- Location: Baltimore, MD
Re: Ignition
IAP video detailing switch removal is still available on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G39ot4hKKyQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G39ot4hKKyQ
- NGK
- Patron 2019
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:40 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 124 fiat spider 2000
- Location: Sylvania GA
Re: Ignition
I got a new ignition switch but now it won't run at all it will start but not run did I connect it wrong or something, could someone put up photos of there connector in there car so I can see what it looks like.
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: Ignition
Do you have the wire diagram for your car??? If not I suggest you join the chat room Mirafiori.com and access their library for the wire diagram. I also recommend down loading and reading "Spider 2000 Electrical Diagnostic Manual, 1980-1981". It contains almost all the wire diagrams for your car with circuit descriptions and troubleshooting recommendations.
Not knowing what ignition switch you have purchased (brand and if it has the pigtail preinstalled) makes it nearly impossible to make meaningful troubleshooting suggestions.
Remember often more than one issue contribute to a single symptom. You may very well have a few electrical problems that need addressing.
I personally think the best approach is to first get the car wired as it left the factory using a used Sipea ignition switch. Once all is operating as it should then if you want, modify it with available vendor supplied parts/kits.
Not knowing what ignition switch you have purchased (brand and if it has the pigtail preinstalled) makes it nearly impossible to make meaningful troubleshooting suggestions.
Remember often more than one issue contribute to a single symptom. You may very well have a few electrical problems that need addressing.
I personally think the best approach is to first get the car wired as it left the factory using a used Sipea ignition switch. Once all is operating as it should then if you want, modify it with available vendor supplied parts/kits.