32/36 DFEV - ID this port please

[architect]

Hello,

I am about on install a new 32/36 tomorrow on my 78 Fiat (no smog).

Just curious if anyone can ID this nipple... do I leave it as is, plug it?



Also, how do I hook up the electric choke? I have already re-routed the water back to the block.




Is it as simple as pulling the electric connection from the old carb (32adfa) and hooking up to the new carb? See old carb below, thanks everyone!!!!

[70spider]

I am no expert, but on my 1438 motor I simply plugged it and the carb ran fine.

[architect]

So further digging, the connector on the 32adfa is the "idle stop solenoid" - and this should be a good source for the electric choke?

[architect]

I am no expert, but on my 1438 motor I simply plugged it and the carb ran fine.

I believe this is a "vacuum advance port for the dizzy". Since I switched to a Fireball electric ignition, can I plug the port?

[architect]

Also - does anyone know the linkage ball size g5 or 8mm) Looks like the stock rod is about 1” to long (10” need 9”)

[phaetn]

Well, yours looks a little different than my EMPI 32/36 DFEV, likely because of your fancy fuel line intake. Mine's just rubber hose with a clamp.

On mine, that port you point to just has a hose that goes to the top of the charcoal canister.

As for the electric choke, it just requires 12v that is only is hot with ignition. Under that yellow cap is a bimetalic coil that expand/contracts with temp. You can twist the cap with affects the coil position. It should be set so that when the engine is stone cold that the choke butterfly valves are almost (but not fully) closed in the carb throat-- some use a credit card thickness as an acceptable gap. Once the 12v line is hot (e.g. with ignition on), it will gradually cause the butterfly valves to open. They should be fully open within about a minute or so and stay that way during operation.

Check out how it works with the lunchbox air filter off first. It can be a pain to get at those screws when the carb is in place because the hard brake lines off the master cylinder can get in the way, but you'll get the hang of it.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
phaetn

[architect]

Looks like the ball socket is 8mm if anyone is curious

[architect]

Well, yours looks a little different than my EMPI 32/36 DFEV, likely because of your fancy fuel line intake. Mine's just rubber hose with a clamp.

On mine, that port you point to just has a hose that goes to the top of the charcoal canister.

As for the electric choke, it just requires 12v that is only is hot with ignition. Under that yellow cap is a bimetalic coil that expand/contracts with temp. You can twist the cap with affects the coil position. It should be set so that when the engine is stone cold that the choke butterfly valves are almost (but not fully) closed in the carb throat-- some use a credit card thickness as an acceptable gap. Once the 12v line is hot (e.g. with ignition on), it will gradually cause the butterfly valves to open. They should be fully open within about a minute or so and stay that way during operation.

Check out how it works with the lunchbox air filter off first. It can be a pain to get at those screws when the carb is in place because the hard brake lines off the master cylinder can get in the way, but you'll get the hang of it.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
phaetn

Thanks for the big heads up! That’s an awesome description too...

BTW, I added the AN fitting for my return line. Just got to tap the supply side now.

So will the wire from the original carb suffice?

[architect]

Well, yours looks a little different than my EMPI 32/36 DFEV, likely because of your fancy fuel line intake. Mine's just rubber hose with a clamp.

On mine, that port you point to just has a hose that goes to the top of the charcoal canister.

As for the electric choke, it just requires 12v that is only is hot with ignition. Under that yellow cap is a bimetalic coil that expand/contracts with temp. You can twist the cap with affects the coil position. It should be set so that when the engine is stone cold that the choke butterfly valves are almost (but not fully) closed in the carb throat-- some use a credit card thickness as an acceptable gap. Once the 12v line is hot (e.g. with ignition on), it will gradually cause the butterfly valves to open. They should be fully open within about a minute or so and stay that way during operation.

Check out how it works with the lunchbox air filter off first. It can be a pain to get at those screws when the carb is in place because the hard brake lines off the master cylinder can get in the way, but you'll get the hang of it.

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
phaetn

Thanks for the big heads up! That’s an awesome description too...

BTW, I added the AN fitting for my return line. Just got to tap the supply side now.

So will the wire from the original carb suffice (idle stop silonod)?

[phaetn]

Thanks for the big heads up! That’s an awesome description too...

BTW, I added the AN fitting for my return line. Just got to tap the supply side now.

So will the wire from the original carb suffice?

I would think the original wire would suffice, but it depends on how it operates and when it's getting power. Check with a voltmeter if it is getting +12v; you only want it to get power when ignition is on. It's the heat from the electrical wire that causes the bimetalic coil to expand and shift the choke valve positioning.

Cheers,
phaetn