Ignition switch replacement 1982 Spider

[HAWKER]

I have a new replacement switch from Vick's Autosports, It arrived with confusing instructions as to the previous wiring and the new terminals on the new switch. The old switches wiring on the back is quite different from the new replacement switch. The new instructions have reference to a yellow wire that I do not have in the original cannon plug bundle and there is a reference to two red wires and I only have one avail. Vick's included a Y terminal to connect two of these wires to a single terminal and they were not in the mood to help me get aligned. Additionally my original switch had a black wire that has no reference on the new switch instructions. Forgive me for the ramble, I am just super frustrated as this is my favorite time of the year to get her out and enjoy the fall. She has been in the barn with this well known ignition switch dilemma for the entire summer. I rebuilt the old switch via the excellent instruction provided by a great guy on the Bayless site. It wasn't easy but I got it done but it failed continuity on the switch pairs. I and here with the new switch and I am hoping that we have a gent out there that has a new replacement ignition switch that is oriented on how to wire in the original wire pigtail. I appreciate this site as I totally get the feel that we are all here to help each other get our cars running. I am pretty good as this is my third 124 but I have run out of mojo on this problem.

[RRoller123]

This may or may not help.... but this is how my Lada replacement switch was and is wired. I say "was and is" because there was one in the car wired this way when I bought it, and I wired up the replacement six years later the same way and it works fine.

[spider2081]

With the Lada type replacement switch it is important to note the "INT" terminals have battery voltage on them in the "off" position of the key and with the key removed.

[RRoller123]

Thanks! That means they could be used for a small source of power. Radio or something, whatever. I never thought to check, so they are just sitting there exposed and at voltage all the time.

Might be a good idea to just put a couple of insulated FastOns on there to cover the exposed terminals.

[spider2081]

I cover them with Black RTV . Once it hardens they are well insulated. Also best to install relays with them as they have a tendency to melt after a couple years of use.

[RRoller123]

makes sense.

[HAWKER]

Thanks RRoller123,
I can tell that you dug in and figured this out. The diagram is great and I totally appreciate your help. I am going to wire the new switch in tomorrow and hope for the best. I have a fear that I have another gremlin in the works. I will hope for the best.
Thanks again for your quick help. I needed it!

[HAWKER]

I have my new Lada ignition switch in thanks to all the support on this brotherhood and sisterhood of understanding. Thanks again RRoller123! Unfortunately, I am still hard down. I would love to have someone out there recognize where in the heck my problem is! I know that someone has seen all the possibilities as I thought I have seen em all after 3 124s and one being perfectly reliable and the next, well, break out the jack stands. Here we go, I know you guys are interested as it is in the blood.
I rotate my new ignition switch to the first position and my radio display flashes on and then the courtesy light goes out as the door was open. Previous to the switch being rotated I had 12v to the starter and the alternator but after this switch rotation and a token second or two the voltage on the starter and alternator drop to 0. I turn of the ignition switch walk away come back recomposed, sorta, then the voltage is back until I rotate the switch again. The switch has been checked and connections several times. Battery is good and new. I have checked the grounds but maybe missed a buried one somewhere. Relays ??? What do ya think?
This problem actually started a long time ago with the rotation of the original Ignition switch working fine till the car was driven for a while then the switch when rotated had zero response to the cars electrics. Walk away, cuss a little and then come back in a couple of hours and the ignition switch worked perfect. Oh Boy, I am dreaming of a understandable fix. It's the season for cruzin and I am on Jacks!!

[RRoller123]

Maybe this schematic, (for an '80, probably same(?)) which shows the connections to the switch will help. It also shows the switch action if one looks carefully at the diagram, or you can compare it to a known good switch, using an ohm meter.

[spider2081]

Where are you located maybe someone who lives near you could help.

Do you have a volt meter or a test light??
Does your current ignition switch installation still use the 6 pin connector white nylon connector??

[RRoller123]

That connector would be C31 on the schematic below. Nothing but trouble from that thing. It is about 6 inches downstream from the ignition switch. I eliminated it and wired directly across.