Help identiy this hose

[architect]

Happy Friday!

I am starting to get into my 1978 - 124's engine bay... after months of ownership. I kinda started backwards (focused on the interior) and now focusing on the heart! The engine appears to be in good condition, but needs some TLC.

Can someone help ID this hose. It's currently disconnected, and has wear marks from a hose clamp. I believe I found a pic of the item via "micro slides found on the web. (Im waiting on my Haynes manual to arrive)

Apologies for the dirty engine bay. The previous owner lived in a dust bowl.





Also... the gasoline vapor filter looks really rough shape. Just out of curiosity, can this be removed? I have briefly read about "de-smogging" the car... is there a list of items to remove (if haven't been removed yet?) I basically want to strip the engine bay down to the minimal (smog components) that wont sacrifice the drivability of it.



Thank you in advance!

[architect]

Actually - was this connected to the "air pump"? Was the air pump bolted directly to the block, on the passenger side? I noticed there is something missing on my car. There is two lugs sticking out of the block.

This is a guess based on this pic found on the forum

http://i1132.photobucket.com/albums/m57 ... G_3336.jpg


Also -This looks like a good potential thread for de-smogging

http://www.fiatspider.com/f15/viewtopic.php?t=18460

[AZRoadster]

The air pump is located on the lower front passenger side of the block. I just recently removed all of these parts on a 78. I have the bracket and air pump. I have no idea if they are working or not.

[klweimer]

I don't know about the hose, I have FI, but I do know the fuel vent system should be hooked up and maintained to avoid gas smells and depending on the fuel system may be involved with fuel recirculation. It does not reduce engine power at all. Lots of threads here on how to get it hooked up correctly.
Kirk

[So Cal Mark]

that hose should be connected to the air pump. The pump on your car is mounted on the lower right side of the block using a lower bracket that bolts to the block using 2 studs that leak oil if removed. The upper bracket is the slotted adjustment bracket

[johndemar]

Depending on emission requirements in your area, all of that can be removed, although keeping the charcoal canister in place does help with fumes. It will clean up the engine bay, and performance, if anything, will improve.

[architect]

Wow thanks for all the quick responses... it's in the high 70's in Texas... perfect day to get back under the hood...

So I just checked it out.. no air pump and the two bolts are in the block (maybe 2" long).

So with no air being forced thru the hose... I would assume the car is getting starved? Yikes.

Can I completely remove the loose hose, and it's connecting elements. (Shown on the diagram above). It connects to the engine it self near the valve covers. I will post more pics this afternoon.

Apologies for the ignorance, I have never delt with emission controls.

[So Cal Mark]

your engine is not being starved-the air pump put air into the port above the exhaust valve to finish burning any unburned fuel. You can completely remove the air injection system without any detrimental results

[brackie1]

Wish I were in texas right now. Live in NC aND it's freezing.

[architect]

Thanks for the quick responses... After doing some more searching, I have decided to post up a few pictures (some mine, some from the web) to verify my scope of work. I am on the road this week, away from the car.. so I thought I do a research.

Step 1.
Remove value for air injection (assume this is a check valve?). Right now the hose connecting to the non-existant air pump is loose. (the original post of this thread)




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Step 2.
The hose from above connects to this manifold correct? (via second check valve?)





Step 2.2
Plug the 4 holes up (from the manifold above) with this kit?
https://www.autoricambi.us/product/CH0- ... -Plug-Set/


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Step 3.
Remove (or plug) xxhaust gas re-circlulation from manifold? I plan on replacing the manifold with a 4-2-1 header. Should I leave this here for now instead of plugging? I haven't removed the shield yet, so im not too sure how it connects.





Step 3.1
Where does this line run? Is this is, and if so, do I need to plug?

Is this it?



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Step 4.
Remove charcoal cleaner (mine looks cracked and busted).



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Step 4.1
Disconnect hose from charcoal? Do I plug this connection?



What do I do with the second connection from the charcoal can (bottom hose)? Is this the second hose? (right hose with blue tape going under carb?)


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Step 5
Remove fast idle switches? Just curious, what are these for? Hoses and electrical?


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Step 6 Remove EGR valve.. I found this on the forums.. is this connected to any components above? Im not too sure where this is at?

[klweimer]

architect,
I'm back to the charcoal canister system here. I'm on vacation and away from my manuals right now, but generally, there is a line that goes from the canister to the gas tank and pulls the vapors off the top of the tank and into the canister and then into the intake manifold. If you cap off all the lines, it may be possible to vacuum lock the gas tank, if the tank isn't separately vented. While I haven't done it, I understand you can cut the old canister apart and put in fresh charcoal (aquarium filter type). I'll see if I can send you a poor scan of the diagram.
Kirk

[architect]

architect,
I'm back to the charcoal canister system here. I'm on vacation and away from my manuals right now, but generally, there is a line that goes from the canister to the gas tank and pulls the vapors off the top of the tank and into the canister and then into the intake manifold. If you cap off all the lines, it may be possible to vacuum lock the gas tank, if the tank isn't separately vented. While I haven't done it, I understand you can cut the old canister apart and put in fresh charcoal (aquarium filter type). I'll see if I can send you a poor scan of the diagram.
Kirk

Ah thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure where the second hose ran... makes since that it runs to the tank. Could I put a check valve and breather on this hose, closer to the tank? (Exterior)

[architect]

architect,
I'm back to the charcoal canister system here. I'm on vacation and away from my manuals right now, but generally, there is a line that goes from the canister to the gas tank and pulls the vapors off the top of the tank and into the canister and then into the intake manifold. If you cap off all the lines, it may be possible to vacuum lock the gas tank, if the tank isn't separately vented. While I haven't done it, I understand you can cut the old canister apart and put in fresh charcoal (aquarium filter type). I'll see if I can send you a poor scan of the diagram.
Kirk

Ah thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure where the second hose ran... makes since that it runs to the tank. Could I put breather filter right past the two way valve? (canister side)(Exterior)

[architect]

I also found this diagram.

-Regarding the idle switches, Is it as simple are disconnecting and plugging the hoses / unhooking electrical?
-The EGR valve is connected between the exhaust manifold and carb - I should leave this on until header install?

[architect]

Just received a diagram from Kirk.. thank you!

What should I use to plug the two hose outlets/ inlets (from the charcoal canister hoses) in the carb?