I had my front end rebuilt by CanadaDan with all new parts and he also installed a new brake master cylinder because the old one was leaking badly; as part of this latter job he also serviced all the calipers. After the rebuild I had an expensive alignment done that required a bunch of shims yet the car still pulls badly to the right. I spent a lot of time under the car with the mechanic after the alignment was done and trouble-shooted.
First, the details:
Last year I bought new upper and lower control arms, tie rod ends, and a centre steering link from Auto Ricambi. I knew a ball joint was going on the old setup, so I figured this would replace everything and be fresh and new. I waited to install them until I was ready for a suspension upgrade, too, which occurred a couple of weeks ago when I I bought A/R's progressive rate springs.
My car is a '74 so it is the last year of the small bumpers, but it had a badly sagging rear end. When I went to FFO this summer and saw other cars of the same vintage I knew I had to do something! The clearance at the front also seemed much too high; I knew this was at least in part from the tired rear. I figured new coils all around should do the trick so that almost everything is fresh.
The new springs appeared to be around the same height as the originals at the rear when uncompressed, but very much raised the rear as the old ones were shot. Surprisingly, the new A/R front springs were considerably shorter that the originals -- probably at least a coil less tall, but I'm going from memory, it might well have been more. The front dropped probably 1.5 to two inches after the install. Initial new measurements were about 24" from ground to wheel well at centre, with the rear driver's side being a bit higher at 24.5". This compressed down to about 24" with driver weight. The camber at the front looked way off (positive) but this isn't likely a surprise given the car is sitting totally differently and much lower at the front.
After the alignment (including many shims to alter camber) the front has dropped a bit more -- to about 23.5" on each side. I would expect that this is from the suspension settling after a week rather than the camber change. Here are some before and after shots, as well as the specs from the alignment (click to expand):
With the old suspension and control arms the car steered straight and I could take my hands off the wheel. I put 5000 miles on it this past year -- including driving it to Pittsburgh and back -- all with no problem except the sagging rear. No issues with tire wear.
After the new bits the car pulls very much to the right. I would expect that with the new stance that the steering geometry has all changed so I wasn't initially worried. It's still happening after the alignment and now I'm concerned. I'm fighting the car from veering into the ditch at all times and this will wreck tires in short order.
The alignment tech (an experienced mech who has worked on old Porsches) doesn't think it's the alignment unless the computer's data set is wrong (though it does show for a 73-77 Fiat Spider). He had to put three shims on the lower control arms on each side to alter the camber upwards of three degrees. No more shims can be installed as otherwise the nuts won't be fully threaded on the bolts. The toe is apparently right on. He did indicate that camber would come in a bit with weight on the car, and I know he was lifting and dropping the car two or three times to take readings.
After I came back to complain about the veering to the right he put it up on the hoist again and I went under the car with him. The right side tie rod seems much stiffer than the left when we moved it back and forth with a plumber's wrench. That had him asking about the new joints. He was wondering if a ball was sitting too high in a socket or too tightly packed. Then we took off the wheels and checked for brake drag (which we didn't suspect as we had taken temp readings with a laser thermometer). Neither wheel was particularly free-rotating, but then they never have been. He loosened up the retainer nuts for the bearings (I've never seen the wheels run so free!) though the right was a bit notchy and not as free running when spun by hand. With weight on the car it might be worse. Still it was likely like that before when I put all the miles on it. I asked if the frame could be bent, but he said this wasn't the case according to the alignment readings.
I'm stuck as to what to do. The car shouldn't be driven for any distance before this is resolved. What else could be wrong? Should I just mess with the toe and get it to track straight? Should I be using old school methods with a measuring tape?
I was hoping to be really pleased with the new steering links, control arms, and suspension but right now it's much worse off. Should I go back to the old front suspension?
Any advice/help appreciated!!
Cheers,
phaetn
