So I finally got my brakline connections sealed and now there is an endless stream of air coming out of the two rear bleeders. It is only the rears, the front seems fine.
What did I break now?
Bleeding brakes
-
- Patron 2018
- Posts: 1148
- Joined: Sat Apr 02, 2011 7:58 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat Spider
- Location: Montreal Canada
Re: Bleeding brakes
Keep suspension compressed while you bleed.
- azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: Bleeding brakes
I had this issue with dry rear calipers. I disconnected the lines and filled the calipers with a small turkey baster. Made progress after that.
-
- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Bleeding brakes
When vacuum bleeding brakes SpeedBleeders help with the bubbles caused by air filtering past the threads of the bleeder screws due to the thread compound already bonded to them and they have the added benefit of a check valve which prevents air from being sucked back into the calipers to simplify the bleeding process.
http://speedbleeder.com/
http://speedbleeder.com/
Re: Bleeding brakes
I got the speed bleeders after you recommended them to me.
Do I really need to get myself a turkey baster?
Do I really need to get myself a turkey baster?
-
- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Bleeding brakes
If the Speed Bleeders are sealing to the Caliper and the Vacuum Bleeder is sealing to the Speed Bleeder then you may still have a bad connection somewhere or possibly the compensator valve is leaking.Tobi wrote:I got the speed bleeders after you recommended them to me.
Do I really need to get myself a turkey baster?
Usually the bubbles are from where the Vacuum Bleeder attaches to the Speed Bleeders however as long as you move enough fluid to travel the whole route from the Master Cylinder to the Bleeder without sucking the Master Cylinder dry you should be OK.
Re: Bleeding brakes
I am not using a vacuum bleeder. I use a clear, tight hose and pump on the pedal, just me, no helper.
Starting to wonder if the speed bleeders still seal to the calipers after opening and closing them about 15 times now. I open them by about a quarter turn.
I checked on all the conections and they are all dry.
I also pumped a quart through the system, should be enough.
Starting to wonder if the speed bleeders still seal to the calipers after opening and closing them about 15 times now. I open them by about a quarter turn.
I checked on all the conections and they are all dry.
I also pumped a quart through the system, should be enough.
-
- Posts: 2130
- Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
- Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel
Re: Bleeding brakes
Did you already try gravity bleeding them? If you ran the master cylinder dry then you may have to go through the priming process if you do not have a vacuum bleeder.Tobi wrote:I am not using a vacuum bleeder. I use a clear, tight hose and pump on the pedal, just me, no helper.
Starting to wonder if the speed bleeders still seal to the calipers after opening and closing them about 15 times now. I open them by about a quarter turn.
I checked on all the conections and they are all dry.
I also pumped a quart through the system, should be enough.
Re: Bleeding brakes
I think we found the problem! At one point I thought I drained the reservoir but I wasn't sure.
I did not even prime the master when I replaced it years ago but that could be the reason this time.
I don't have a vacuum bleeder.
How can I prime it when it is already I installed?
I did not even prime the master when I replaced it years ago but that could be the reason this time.
I don't have a vacuum bleeder.
How can I prime it when it is already I installed?
- azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: Bleeding brakes
I removed the brake tubes from the MC and filled it with fluid (lots of paper towels under it). connect the lines but leave them just loose enough to leak by the tread and slowly pump the pedal once or twice to get the remaining bubbles out. tighten and go back to bleeding the calipers starting with RR, then LR, then RF, then LF. I get best results with a helper to pump. open bleeder, pedal down, close bleeder, pedal up, repeat, repeat, repeat, yada yada. keep an eye on reservoir. If it runs dry, you get to start over.
Re: Bleeding brakes
Problem solved!
I bled the master cylinder and then the whol system. Pedal is firm test drive was good.
Test drive was also the first drive of the year and now I am smiling again.
It took the motor less than a second to start after sitting for six month.
Thank you guys for helping me to get that fixed.
Grazie mille!
I bled the master cylinder and then the whol system. Pedal is firm test drive was good.
Test drive was also the first drive of the year and now I am smiling again.
It took the motor less than a second to start after sitting for six month.
Thank you guys for helping me to get that fixed.
Grazie mille!