Rear brake caliper

Maintenance advice to keep your Spider in shape.
spider2081
Patron 2024
Patron 2024
Posts: 3015
Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
Location: Wallingford,CT

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by spider2081 »

Sounds like there is a blockage somewhere. Do you have jack stands under the rear axle so the cars weight is on the axle??? If no then the brake compensator won't allow the fluid to flow back to the master cylinder.
It is common for the brake hose to the rear axle to clog and not allow fluid to pass back to the master cylinder.
DieselSpider
Posts: 2130
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by DieselSpider »

Tire Kingdom did the brakes on mine for the previous owner and did not align the slot in the caliper resorting to forcing it on which they managed to do resulting in uneven pad wear bringing it down to the metal in short order and ruining the rotor on one side. Good that you got that part sorted however now you need to consider if you have a plugged brake hose if you did not have the rear axle on jack stands to keep the brake compensator valve fully opened. On cars that have a compensator valve to adjust the pressure to the rear brakes based on rear body height you need to do your brakes with the axle on jack stands and need to consider the valve when you do anything to change the ride height.
rontron

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by rontron »

it is on jack stands............question.........how hard is it to change out the flex hose......is it a simple screw job or is there a trick........and suggestions where to get new flex hose........Csaba or mark Allison ?
DieselSpider
Posts: 2130
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by DieselSpider »

rontron wrote:it is on jack stands............question.........how hard is it to change out the flex hose......is it a simple screw job or is there a trick........and suggestions where to get new flex hose........Csaba or mark Allison ?
In my area most local parts stores either have them on the shelf or in a warehouse a few minutes to hours away. When I first started reading the forums I at first thought "What have I gotten into with a car you can't source parts for locally?" only to find that most everything aside from a few trim and custom items are available through the standard auto parts stores I have been dealing with for years. The added plus is that many of the locally available parts will carry a lifetime replacement warranty with over the counter exchanges.

Removing them is fairly simple. Soak the fittings in PB Blast or Liquid Wrench overnight, loosen the metal line from the flex hose, remove the clip, unscrew the old hose from the caliper and then reverse the process installing new crush washers at the caliper. A rubber cap to cover the open end of the brake line helps keep things neat and tidy. Ensure that you have plenty of brake fluid to flush the system and get new rubber dust caps to cover the bleeders when you are done.

If you damage a metal line just tell the parts store you need some European metal brake lines, bring in the broken line and they should have random lengths that will do the job. Just get the next longer size if they don't have exactly the length you need.
Last edited by DieselSpider on Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
4uall
Posts: 4145
Joined: Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:09 pm
Your car is a: 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 F.I.
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by 4uall »

Jay

Fiona
1980 FI 2000 Spider
ITZEBTZE

https://goo.gl/photos/eNKaX7hrXhBu9fmp6

FINN (FN-2187)
2014 Jeep Wrangler Sport
MYTHERPY
rontron

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by rontron »

Last edited by rontron on Sat Apr 18, 2015 5:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
rontron

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by rontron »

so I tried three times to post a pic of the finished job........once copying the url once copying the link address and once copying and pasting the copy image choice..........why on earth is this so hard?
User avatar
Nanonevol
Patron 2018
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Posts: 828
Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2014 9:17 am
Your car is a: 1977 Fiat 124 Spider
Location: Medway, Massachusetts

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by Nanonevol »

Not sure why the first try didn't work but looks like you missed clicking right in the center of the two {img} on the next two tries. Use the preview first to see if it worked.
1977 Fiat Spider
1985 Jaguar XJ6
1967 Triumph Bonneville (hard-tail chopper)
1966 BSA Lightning
coise

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by coise »

my mistake, disregard
DieselSpider
Posts: 2130
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by DieselSpider »

rontron wrote:Image
You were posting the link to the album and not the individual photos.

With the photo that you want to post displayed in your album - right click on the photo, select "View Image Info" and then on the default selection that is highlighted (it should end in "jpg") right click and select "Copy".

You have to paste the link between the middle right and left square braces "][" of the img/img that are inserted when you click on the Img button.
Last edited by DieselSpider on Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
rontron

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by rontron »

you guys got to copy and paste this and save it for your files

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_9eiKeXKw0
DieselSpider
Posts: 2130
Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 10:21 pm
Your car is a: 1978 124 Spider with Isuzu Turbo Diesel

Re: Rear brake caliper

Post by DieselSpider »

Interesting. Not quite what you'll see when the inner ferrules have seated in the arm and anchor point but a good starting point. The aftermarket replacement cables seem to have larger diameter ferrules than the original so that they don't slide into the anchor points so they are a bit easier to remove. The OEM cable can be a bear when it has rusted into the inner mounts on either side of the boot covered spring.

If your replacing the original cable it is easier to cut the cable so you can pull it through from the ball end and then remove the rusted in ferrules by tapping them out with a hammer and chisel or drive cap screwdriver.

On mine the previous owner never used the parking brake so it was all seized rock solid so the cable no longer slid in the jacket along with all the ferrules being rusted into their sockets which made it quite a bit more difficult to remove.

Use the parking brake and keep it in good working order so you will be less likely to face what I did.
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