1981 timing

Schaubb · Post by **Schaubb** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:34 pm

I recently performed a top end service to a spider I bought a few years ago. It was last inspected in 2002 so I'm guessing that was the last time it ran. I removed the head, completely disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned it. The cylinders looked great. I installed new valve seals, lapped the valves, and reassembled the head/ cam boxes. I changed the water pump and idler pulley while I had it all apart. My question involves proper timing. When I look online it seems to show the timing mark on the crank at the 1 o'clock position. However when #4 cyl is at TDC mine is approx at 11 o'clock. There is also a metal timing tab similar to what I've seen on a small block Chevy that lines up perfectly is this correct? I have some more things to complete before I try to start it and would like to make sure this is correct before I do. My past experience had been x/19's and MG's so this is new territory for me. Any help is appreciated!

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azruss · Post by **azruss** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 6:48 pm

The early spiders timing mark on the crank pulley was on the afternoon side and the timing marks were on the belt cover. On the later models, the timing mark was actually a tab located on the block. I don't know if i would call it 11 o'clock, but maybe more like 10:30, but no need to be picky.

I think you are okay

divace73 · Post by **divace73** » Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:04 pm

to know for sure pop a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 through the spark plug hole and compare it to no 2, they should be at opposite ends

narfire · Post by **narfire** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 12:19 am

Under the water pump you'll see a pointer affair. The point, (can't remember if it was the long or short...been a while) closest to the center of the block is 0. Line up the small cut on the crank pulley with that. I suspect you might put a dab of paint on the cut as well to help see.
Done that.... the front of the cam towers have a raised rib. The holes in the cam wheels line up with those marks at the same time the crank mark is 0. If you end up being one tooth off, the engine will run but not with the power if it is lined up properly.
OK the engine is closest to TDC I suspect you can get it without a degree wheel and dial indicator.
Set the rotor at the #4 pin inside the cap and give it a crank....
Chris

divace73 · Post by **divace73** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 2:01 am

Don't forget the AUX pulley is at 1 o'clock position, this one is very important,there is an image somewhere that shows the line up

toplessexpat · Post by **toplessexpat** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 9:33 am

This one?

(Right click the image and save it, I didn't think reducing it was a good idea)

bradartigue · Post by **bradartigue** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 10:34 am

Schaubb wrote:I recently performed a top end service to a spider I bought a few years ago. It was last inspected in 2002 so I'm guessing that was the last time it ran. I removed the head, completely disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned it. The cylinders looked great. I installed new valve seals, lapped the valves, and reassembled the head/ cam boxes. I changed the water pump and idler pulley while I had it all apart. My question involves proper timing. When I look online it seems to show the timing mark on the crank at the 1 o'clock position. However when #4 cyl is at TDC mine is approx at 11 o'clock. There is also a metal timing tab similar to what I've seen on a small block Chevy that lines up perfectly is this correct? I have some more things to complete before I try to start it and would like to make sure this is correct before I do. My past experience had been x/19's and MG's so this is new territory for me. Any help is appreciated!

.

About 11 o'clock is right. Make sure you are looking at the crank and not the aux shaft - the crank is the lowest pulley on the engine. At TDC it will align with the big pointer. When timing the ignition align with 10 BTDC. The middle is 5. When doing the ignition make sure the rotor is about to fire #4 - not #1.

toplessexpat · Post by **toplessexpat** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 12:26 pm

Brad - keep me honest here....

Whilst you set the rotor so it's about to fire on #4, you can set #4 at TDC by sticking the stick / long screwdriver in the top of #1 as they're in tandem? This is easier as there's not much clearance above #4 to see that you're at TDC.....

azruss · Post by **azruss** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 4:01 pm

you can do either 4 or 1 as they move in tandem. They also hit the top position twice in each stroke, so make sure the cams arent 180 degrees out. When all is right. crank at TDC, cams on their marks, dizzy rotor is contacting #4 plug. then move to 10 BTDC with a light.

divace73 · Post by **divace73** » Thu Mar 05, 2015 5:57 pm

Just a note of interest, the fiat cars here in Oz had the TDC on the cam belt cover for all models which appears to be the opposite side, very hard to measure up when you have to take the cam cover off to put the belt on.....

toplessexpat · Post by **toplessexpat** » Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:10 am

azruss wrote:you can do either 4 or 1 as they move in tandem. They also hit the top position twice in each stroke, so make sure the cams arent 180 degrees out. When all is right. crank at TDC, cams on their marks, dizzy rotor is contacting #4 plug. then move to 10 BTDC with a light.

And for those eager watchers of this and related threads......

USE A TIMING LIGHT not your less than perfect hearing, feelings and extra sensory perception to set the timing

76was124 · Post by **76was124** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 7:08 am

This may help:
http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... ng#p147180

Schaubb · Post by **Schaubb** » Sun Mar 08, 2015 6:28 pm

Thanks everyone for your help! I did ensure the aux shaft was approx 1 O'clock. Seems like I'm probably ok. Once I get the new gas tank installed and new hoses in, I'll give it a whirl! So glad I found this site, you all have been great! I'll have to post some pics soon!

1981 timing

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