re-torque the head

[TX82FIAT]

Some thoughts from those with more experience. I've read a few of the posts about re-torquing the head after about 500 miles. It has been about 800 miles since I put the new head on. Saturday I put about 280 miles on the car driving through the hill country with a bunch of great Fiat folks having a lot of fun. When I got home I noticed a very small oil leak and it appears to be coming from where the head meets the block near the front on the exhuast side. right by the heater pipe near the water pump. So... I regretted not re-torquing the head before the trip as it should only take a few minutes.

Process based on what i have read to re-torque the head:

Loosen the head bolts about 1/4 of a turn. in the reverse order that they were tightened down and then retorque them in the same order to 61 ft torque.

Order that I used was from the back of the block (fire wall) moveing forward on Exhaust side 7, 3, 1, 4, 9 and on the Intake from back to front was 8, 6, 2, 5, 10. so that you start n the middle of the block and work your way out. I've been told that is all wrong and I should have done it as Exhaust side 8, 4, 1, 3, 7 and Intake side 9, 5, 2, 6, 10. Now I'm confused and wondering if it really makes a difference.

Do you think i should pull the bolts all the way out and tap and lube. I don't think that is really needed to re-torque a head that was just put on.

I know this is a common discussion point. I just thought I'd get some input from you before I do the work.

[131]

Regardless of gasket type, I've always done it the way I was instructed to. From middle out, back off, tighten, 1 bolt at a time.

[majicwrench]

I can't remember the last time I retorqued. Probably been 10 years. I really doubt if the oil you are seeing is from the head gasket leaking. Does it say to retorque on instructions with gasket??
That said, if you wish to retorque, loosen all the bolt just a tad ( I would not go 1/4 turn, less is fine) then torque again. Yes the order of tightening matters, follow whatever book you have. For the most part you start tightening in the center of the motor and work out to each end. I would not remove bolts or tap holes.
Keith

[TX82FIAT]

I wanted to post a quick follow up to this post. This weekend I re-torqued the head. All I can say is I am very glad i did. Four of the ten bolts were at what i would estimate to be at 40 pds. You know the fealing when you have to strain to break a bolt back about 1/4 of a turn. These four bolts turned very easily. I re-torqed back to 61 pds following the sequence and after a nice 30 minute drive no small oil leak in the area of the exhaust where the head meets the block one head bolt in from the front.

I only re-visit this post because i would have never thought that select headbolts would have significantly less torque than the others. Bolts in sequence that were lose. 3, 4, 5, 6. The end bolts appears to be almost at spec right around the 61 pds 7,8,9,10 in sequence. Number 1 and 2 were just under spec torq. I loosened them all back to about 40 pounds. Some were bolts were a 1/4 turn while other less. I then torqued them in two steps. I took them to 50 in sequence and then took them to 61 in sequence.

Again, no issues other than the fact that the head really did need to be re-torqued. Third spider, first time re-torquing head in over 20 years of spider ownership.

[majicwrench]

Just because the bolts loosened easier than the others doesn't mean they were not tight enough, they just weren't stuck. Bolt can get "stuck" on threads or surface tween bolt and head. To really know you would have to mark bolt to head, then loosen and retorque.
Sounds like all is well.
Keith

[pressonregardless]

I wanted to post a quick follow up to this post. This weekend I re-torqued the head. All I can say is I am very glad i did. Four of the ten bolts were at what i would estimate to be at 40 pds. You know the fealing when you have to strain to break a bolt back about 1/4 of a turn. These four bolts turned very easily. I re-torqed back to 61 pds following the sequence and after a nice 30 minute drive no small oil leak in the area of the exhaust where the head meets the block one head bolt in from the front.

I only re-visit this post because i would have never thought that select headbolts would have significantly less torque than the others. Bolts in sequence that were lose. 3, 4, 5, 6. The end bolts appears to be almost at spec right around the 61 pds 7,8,9,10 in sequence. Number 1 and 2 were just under spec torq. I loosened them all back to about 40 pounds. Some were bolts were a 1/4 turn while other less. I then torqued them in two steps. I took them to 50 in sequence and then took them to 61 in sequence.

Again, no issues other than the fact that the head really did need to be re-torqued. Third spider, first time re-torquing head in over 20 years of spider ownership.

**** This post is in hopes to " Leave it better for the next Guy ".

I replaced my head gasket two months ago,(and sent the head to a local machine shop, plus added new valve seals) and I was thrilled with the gasket set I got from Auto-Ricambi, plus Ramzi's email support with some questions. I had leaks and wetness all over the engine before, and now tight as a drum.....however. .. .. .. .. I didn't re-torque after a few hundred miles. I did a cold re-torque check with a click type torque wrench (rented from O'Reily Auto Parts) the day after initial run and drive, and it took little or no additional torque.............that day.

As the post by TX82FIAT above states, after my 3rd tank of gas, one morning I pulled the cover off to drive into town, opened the hood to check the oil, and it was over a quart too full??? You guessed it, coolant reservoir half empty!!!! UGGHHH what a blockhead! So some searching on this site and found many post's such as this one, all I missed. So...

I got out my "Bending Beam" type torque wrench, which are VERY accurate and began to turn the clockwise direction to "check torque" to see where the bolt heads would break loose and turn. As stated above, over half of the Head Bolts began movement as the pointer reached 40 ft. lbs. So, went through the proper torque sequence, twice, and changed the oil and filter. As soon as I pulled the drain plug, bright green coolant flowed, however no evidence in the oil filter and all the old was used and black. No grey milkshake! Did I luck out and not run the engine with coolant??? I drove it though two heat cycles, once in the morning, once in the evening, about 40 miles total yesterday. Then parked for the night.

This morning, oil is right on the dipstick. Perhaps I simply lucked out. I hope this helps some one in the debate on "Re-Torque" or not to "Re-Torque" or "Check Torque".

You decide, but if you change your Head Gasket, do something after a tank or two of fuel!

[4uall]

This might help as well