New clutch?

[timspider]

I've adjusted my clutch twice, both times got me where I needed.
So today, after having finally gotten the motor dialed back in nicely, the gears start to get a little crunchy.
I made one small adjustment but no help. A second adjustment got the pedal play to about an inch but no improvement.
Could it be I'm at the end of adjustment for the clutch plate itself?
If so, is it a bear of a job or doable for a guy with no lift but some ramps and Jack stands.
as always, thanks

[wizard124]

Is the clutch slipping when you apply full power? Is clutch engagement smooth or does it chatter? When you press in the clutch does the transmission disengage?

If you answer no, smooth, yes. Then I don't suspect your clutch is the problem.

[timspider]

I can't get into any gear without a major crunch. It's like no clutch at all. Can't drive it so anything involving a road test gets a No.

[76was124]

Some other things to check...Are you sure you are getting full travel on the clutch cable? Do you have a bent or cracked pedal fork where the cable connects? Is there a cracks in the firewall where the cable goes through the firewall? Last couple things might make a popping sound when the pedal is depressed.

When you did the adjustment did you remove the return spring on the yoke? If so, the yoke may have disengaged from the pivot ball which will make the yoke feel sloppy with allot of up down movement in addition to forward and back.
You can also remove the rubber boot in the trans yoke opening to get a better look/ feel. The yoke can be re-attached without removing the trans if the spring clip on the end of the yoke didn't break

You can also remove the rubber boot in the trans yoke opening to get a better look/ feel. A small dental mirror helps.

If you do have to pull the trans, you can get it done with ramps.

[timspider]

Thanks, that helps. Gives me some stuff to check. Also gave me some ideas about the routing of my clutch cable.
too funny, I had just discovered a whole new power band on the last test drive (ignitor/hotter coil/bigger plug gap) and now clutch/tranny keeps me in the barn.
this car is like zen training.

[timspider]

Update. Clutch cable was replaced by po and looks to be in good condition. Grommet at firewall looks solid and tight. No sign of movement there.
cable looks to be running freely.
later when I have a helper I can watch the adjustment connection while they clutch.
this mornings symptoms:
started motor which of course runs great now. No matter how deeply I pushed in clutch there was grinding at every gear, although I could slip into second and third relatively easily (while sitting still idling), and they do engage when I let the clutch out.
the one gear that is not even close to getting in with a big grind is reverse.
I replaced tranny fluid with gl1 a few months ago and everything has been very smooth since then until the last few days.
started noticing rougher shifting a few days ago.
that's what I got at this point.
thanks

[majicwrench]

An inch of free play is too much, can you just adjust the clutch more??

[timspider]

There is more threaded room to adjust clutch on the shaft. I've already adjusted in about a half inch.
Is a full inch of tightening adjustment unusual? I'm talking about an inch of tightening onthe threads.
I'll give it a shot

[timspider]

Tightened up the clutch adjustment a bit more. Now there is about a full inch of clean thread on that shaft. That seems like a huge adjustment to me.
maybe cable stretched? Doesn't look frayed.
this adjustment made it a little easier to get into 1st, 2nd, 3rd and once in gear the clutch seems to engage normally.
still not even close to getting into reverse cleanly.
I checked the GL1 fluid at the fill plug and level seems fine.
I have more adjustment left but am wondering if something else is at play given the size of this move on that threaded shaft.
hmmm. Thinking.

[narfire]

On my cable adjustment, the nut is about 1/2 way along the threaded shaft. If you can pop the rubber boot and with a flashlight, you might be able to see the plate and flywheel. I was told fairly close without touching.

[timspider]

Made another tightening adjustment and now am nearing the end of the threaded shaft.
the clutch pushes in very easily, not like it's unloaded, more like it's really smooth.
I can sneak into first second third and forth, and they seem to engage normally when I let the clutch out. But shifting is now clunky, not smooth like it used to be, and reverse still has same issue. Can't shift into reverse without a big grind, then it engages normally as you let clutch out.
Starting to feel like a linkage issue maybe?
I think part of that rubber boot you mentioned is gone from mine. Now that I look at it appears to have eroded away.
is that a big deal?
Possibly related?
Would love to hear this is some kind of spring that I can easily re set.
even if it's a lie, it would be nice to hear.

[narfire]

I trust the fork is sitting on the ball in the bell housing properly...

[76was124]

Just to be sure we are talking the same thing on travel. The reference to 1" of pre-travel is measured at the pedal, not at the trans/yoke. It's not a 1 to 1 ratio. So when you push the clutch pedal down, you should start to feel the esistanceof of the throw out bearing pushing on the pressure plate after about 3/4" to an 1" of clutch pedal movement.

Short term don't worry about the rubber boot,but you do want to replace it to keep debris and water out.

Here's a good readers about looking into the bell housing for problems/adjustment.

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php ... er#p124421

[timspider]

yes, that was my understanding, but honestly, the pedal resistance is so light that I can hardly tell when it starts pulling the throwout bearing. I still need to see how it travels when someone else is in car stepping on the pedal.
perhaps one of these 2 pics will help. The drier one, before I soaked the area with de greaser, shows the amount of fresh adjustment on the threaded shaft.
Compared to the last time I did a clutch adjustment, this is a very large move.
so now I guess I'll try to wiggle what is left of this boot out and see what I can see in there per that other thread- thanks for that!

[76was124]

Assuming the cable isn't broken, if the yoke came off the pivot ball you might see something similar to your symptoms. Did you see if the yoke will move up and down?

Also, instead of a helper, I once put my cell phone in video mode under the car and pressed the pedal to record this http://s944.photobucket.com/user/76was1 ... 0.mp4.html