seems my new cable keep popping out of the pedal fork. Anyone replaced the pedal?
Looking for step by step instructions.
Do the clutch and brake pedals ride on the same pivot bolt?
Can I pull the bolt towards the trans tunnel and release the clutch pedal without dropping the brake pedal?
Any tips or shortcuts?
thanks in advance.
replacing clutch PEDAL
-
minimike
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:14 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 124 spyder
-
narfire
- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: replacing clutch PEDAL
I changed out my brake pedal a couple of years ago and what I remember was it was not a big deal. Inspect the plastic bushings when apart. The bolt can be a bear as there is not much room to run it out the full length.
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
-
azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: replacing clutch PEDAL
the major issues with the clutch pedal are hooking the springs back up, making sure the cable tee is greased and nest properly in the fork, and trying to do all that on your back. The forks are a weak spot and can bend and crack.
-
minimike
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:14 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 124 spyder
Re: replacing clutch PEDAL
I read a post that suggested the easy way to get the spring back on, and it is indeed a hefty spring, it to stretch it out when out of hte car and pack it with large washers or coins in between the coil spaces. So when you have it in an extended state, it may be possible to drop it in place and pull the spacers (coins/washers) out one by one to let it relax in place. Rather than try to repair my pedal, I plan to put a spare in which I'll give the once over before I do the swap.
RE: brake vs. clutch pedals- If the nut is on the left side, I won't need to remove the bolt all the way out and can drop the clutch pedal first, leaving the brake pedal on the pivot bolt. I'm hoping this is how it goes.
I must have pinched a nerve in my neck when trying to install the new cable. When I got under the car to put the bottom threaded end of the cable in place, I got wicked vertigo. It was below freezing outsid, windy, I was hungry, and it hurt like I've never experienced. Not looking forward to this job as I'm not 20 any more.
RE: brake vs. clutch pedals- If the nut is on the left side, I won't need to remove the bolt all the way out and can drop the clutch pedal first, leaving the brake pedal on the pivot bolt. I'm hoping this is how it goes.
I must have pinched a nerve in my neck when trying to install the new cable. When I got under the car to put the bottom threaded end of the cable in place, I got wicked vertigo. It was below freezing outsid, windy, I was hungry, and it hurt like I've never experienced. Not looking forward to this job as I'm not 20 any more.
-
minimike
- Posts: 257
- Joined: Sat Apr 10, 2010 7:14 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 124 spyder
Re: replacing clutch PEDAL
We'll, the weather and my helper came together today and we removed the clutch pedal which was ripped at the top hook area.
the replacement pedal did the job, but I might have modded it before installation. It was difficult to get the barrel end over the hook without getting the compressed end into the hooked end of the pedal. I finally removed the cable from the firewall, and put a gentle bend no more than I guess 10 degrees in the cable. This let me hook the barrel into pedal w/o the rest of the bit behind the barrel.
Most difficult was removal of the clutch spring, and until I came back to this thread i had started last year, would not have been able to remove it or reinstall it. I used 2 quarters as spacers in almost every coil winding space. Prying it open with a flat blade screwdriver and you don't need to insert much of the coins. Once I had the spring stuffed, I pryed off the end closer to the steering wheel, and boom. the spring dropped to the floor in a crescent shape. I did not realize that the spring was a straight spring, and there was a two ended hook that wrapped around the top of the clutch pedal and also hooked to the spring.
With the spring out, I put it in a very large vise, and stuffed the reverse side with quarters. This straightened the spring and made reinstalling it much easier. I hooked the spring to the 'clutch hook' and then pryed it on to the under dash stationary mount.
Job done. Took most of the day.
One more note, the pivot bolt that exits towards the drivers door, doesn't have enough room to remove it or remove the clutch pedal w/o removing the brake pedal. Remove the return spring and clip nut from the brake pedal, and pull the clevis pin out of the pedal/master cylinder. This was easy to do.
It really stretches out your back. If you're an old coot like me who's seen 6 decades go by, you end up a few inches taller after this job.
the replacement pedal did the job, but I might have modded it before installation. It was difficult to get the barrel end over the hook without getting the compressed end into the hooked end of the pedal. I finally removed the cable from the firewall, and put a gentle bend no more than I guess 10 degrees in the cable. This let me hook the barrel into pedal w/o the rest of the bit behind the barrel.
Most difficult was removal of the clutch spring, and until I came back to this thread i had started last year, would not have been able to remove it or reinstall it. I used 2 quarters as spacers in almost every coil winding space. Prying it open with a flat blade screwdriver and you don't need to insert much of the coins. Once I had the spring stuffed, I pryed off the end closer to the steering wheel, and boom. the spring dropped to the floor in a crescent shape. I did not realize that the spring was a straight spring, and there was a two ended hook that wrapped around the top of the clutch pedal and also hooked to the spring.
With the spring out, I put it in a very large vise, and stuffed the reverse side with quarters. This straightened the spring and made reinstalling it much easier. I hooked the spring to the 'clutch hook' and then pryed it on to the under dash stationary mount.
Job done. Took most of the day.
One more note, the pivot bolt that exits towards the drivers door, doesn't have enough room to remove it or remove the clutch pedal w/o removing the brake pedal. Remove the return spring and clip nut from the brake pedal, and pull the clevis pin out of the pedal/master cylinder. This was easy to do.
It really stretches out your back. If you're an old coot like me who's seen 6 decades go by, you end up a few inches taller after this job.