Timing belt change with possible problem

[124Germ]

So I am finally getting back to finishing up my timing belt change. Tensioner back on, start at the bottom and around the aux pulley, pulling it tight around the cam and the belt moves.

Turns out the belt rotate the crank. Now I could have a big problem, but on the crank pulley there is a white painted line. Just need to know which way it is suppose to be pointed. Below is the current picture of the position. Is there any other way to verify the TDC position.

Any help would be awesome and hope to finish it up this weekend.

http://i1256.photobucket.com/albums/ii4 ... CC1773.jpg

[4uall]

this might help

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... &sk=t&sd=a

http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 826128.pdf

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13215

[wizard124]

I looked at your picture. Does that line point to the notch on the crank pulley? It is the notch that is important.

So. Rotate the pulley CCW back to the TDC index mark. Make sure the aux pully marks are about 1 o'clock, cams are at their indexes. You couldn't have moved them too far.

You may need to put the crank a bit before TDC, fit the belt to the crank and aux pulleys, then rotate the crank to take out the slack.

Use a socket and breaker bar to make these adjustments!

[azruss]

If you dont trust the mark. pull plug #1 and insert a straw or a long wire tie and use it as a gage to determine when the piston is all the way up. This is TDC

[majicwrench]

I really dislike the old screwdriver down the hole TDC trick. It will get you close, give or take. It is NOT a good way to find TDC.

[So Cal Mark]

the crank sprocket has a line that should line up with the casting on the seal holder at tdc

[mpollock]

So how DO you find TDC, Magicwrench? It seems like a better way might be to rotate the crank so the piston is a certain measured distance down, and TDC is in the middle between the two points. How does a pro do it?

[124Germ]

the crank sprocket has a line that should line up with the casting on the seal holder at tdc

I think that would require pulling the pulley off the front of the crank sprocket. Does the nut on the very end of the crack hold on the pulley and the sprocket? I would assume the the pulley is keys in some sort to prevent it from slipping and not turning the aux belt.

[narfire]

How does a pro do it?

Qualifier here...I'm not a pro, but I had a pro( my opinion) degree my engine in.
He found TDC by using a dial indicator. It was mounted on a magnetic base mount and had a number of thin wire extensions to choose from. We somehow bolted a metal plate to the top of the head and then with the dial indicator and long wire down #1 cylinder we rotated the engine until we found TDC. One can rotate the engine a few degrees(if that) at TDC before the indicator moves again.
At this point he aligned the 0 degree mark on the wheel to the zero mark on the pointer. Then the fun started.
Chris

[majicwrench]

Problem w dial indicator, used as above is what he said.
"One can rotate the engine a few degrees (if that) before the indicator moves again"
So you are within "a few degrees" of TDC?? A few degress, even a degree, is a lOT when trying to set something like cam timing. Not a big deal if you are just installing a belt.

To properly find TDC w head on, get an old plug, drive out all the porcelen, stick a piece of 1/4-20 threadall in plug, put nuts on both side to hold secure. Now you can adjust length of threadall if needed. Most of mine the threadall sticks out about an inch. How far it sticks out is not important, but it does have to hit the piston before it get toTDC. The nut at the plug thread end (the end that going in the plug hole) will need to have the corners rounded or it won't go in. Now install "special tool". Make some stationary pointer down by balancer. Now roll engine (BY HAND!) over till it hits tool and stops. make mark. Roll other way till stops, make mark. Exactly half way between the two marks is EXACTLY TDC.
Same thing can be done w dial indicator. Mount indicator securely, w some rod sticking down into cylinder. Roll engine over till it moves indicator X amount. Mark pulley. Roll other way til indicator moves X amount. Mark. Half way tween is TDC. "X" amount can be basicly anything.
DISCLAIMER it is probably possible for the 1/4-20 threadall to interfere w a valve opening/shuttting in some engines. I have never had a problem. But if you wished to be super sure, when you have your plug w the guts knocked out, thread it in, stick something somewhat plyable (drinking straw? pencil?) thru hole in plug, now rull engine around and make sure it doesn't hit.
All this is easier when head off, but I do it all the time to engines assembled.
Keith

[124Germ]

Looks like I was able to get it set with the belt cover. The book states that there are TDC, 5deg, and 10deg behind TDC hash marks on the cam belt cover. I installed the cover and was able to line up the mark from the cam pulley to the hash mark on the cover.

Got it all set, pulled the cover off to finish the install....rotated the engine a couple of times (clockwise, hope that was right). Reset the tensioner and rotated a couple more times until the slack was out. rotated the engine till the cams were lined up...installed the cover and checked the marks. It was off by about a degree, rotated the crack to line it up and checked the cams again. Everything was good.

Now to finally finish the project with the water pump and accessories.

Thanks everyone for all the help and pointers.