SS Brake Lines Question

Maintenance advice to keep your Spider in shape.
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RRoller123
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Your car is a: 1980 FI SPIDER 2000
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SS Brake Lines Question

Post by RRoller123 »

I bought SS brake lines and have an installation question for my esteemed colleagues here on the forum:

When installing them, do you do one line at a time, bleed, and move to the next, or do you just take the whole system down install them all and then refill and bleed? My brake fluid was recently replaced, so I have no need to drain the entire system, and I am thinking that it might be easier to just do one segment at a time?

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Pete
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
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TX82FIAT
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Your car is a: 82 Fiat Spider 2000 CSO
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Re: SS Brake Lines Question

Post by TX82FIAT »

Pete, I'm not sure what the answer is. About three/four years ago I replaced all the hoses and found bleeding brakes to be a PITA. However, the best method for me has been replacing hoses one at a time and then bleeding the entire system using the speed nipples. I start from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and work to the closest wheel to the master. I then repaet the entire process. I've found starting far away and two trips around the car to work well.
Buon giro a tutti! - enjoy the ride!

82 Fiat Spider 2000
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bradartigue
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Re: SS Brake Lines Question

Post by bradartigue »

RRoller123 wrote:I bought SS brake lines and have an installation question for my esteemed colleagues here on the forum:

When installing them, do you do one line at a time, bleed, and move to the next, or do you just take the whole system down install them all and then refill and bleed? My brake fluid was recently replaced, so I have no need to drain the entire system, and I am thinking that it might be easier to just do one segment at a time?

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Pete
Replace all of the parts and then bleed. Otherwise you'll be chasing air bubbles a week later. Use a pressure bleeder or speed bleeders. Don't even try manual bleeding with the silly cup and hose, it will drive you nuts. If you are replacing the MC bleed it before connecting the lines, preferably on a bench so you don't get brake fluid everywhere.

Every time I do this when I'm done and happy with the brakes I spray engine cleaner all over the MC area and the brakes to get any residual brake fluid off the body, it will destroy your paint.

Also a nice trick is to replace gold fluid with blue, and blue with gold (ATE makes both colors) so you'll know when you are getting fresh fluid.
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RRoller123
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Re: SS Brake Lines Question

Post by RRoller123 »

Thanks guys.
'80 FI Spider 2000
'74 and '79 X1/9 (past)
'75 BMW R75/6
2011 Chevy Malibu (daily driver)
2010 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Ext Cab 4WD/STD BED
2002 Edgewater 175CC 80HP 4-Stroke Yamaha
2003 Jaguar XK8
2003 Jaguar XKR
2021 Jayco 22RB
2019 Bianchi Torino Bicycle
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4uall
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Your car is a: 1980 Fiat Pininfarina Spider 2000 F.I.
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Re: SS Brake Lines Question

Post by 4uall »

This might help :wink:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0oUejw5Edc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfTmlOZbXgs

Brake Bleeding in the Fiat 124 Spider:

Like many cars that use compensators to prevent lockup of the rear brakes under hard braking, the Fiat 124 Spider rear brakes must be bled with the rear axle supported. Otherwise, the compensator valve will fully close, and no fluid will be allowed to flow to the rear brakes.

On the 124, jack the rear of the car at the differential pumpkin. You can use a block of wood in between the jack and pumpkin to prevent damage. Place the jackstands as far outboard as possible on the rear axle tubes. Bleed the brakes farthest to closest (i.e. RR, LR, RF, LF) from the master cylinder.

Alternatively, if you choose, you can bleed the brakes with the car fully on the ground. Though, using this method, access is tricky and it takes nearly as long as jacking the car in the first place.

Note:Only get under a car that has been supported with jackstands; a jack alone is only meant to lift and can fail if holding a car up by itself.
Jay

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