Auxillary Air Valve

[joelittel]

How should I go about cleaning my auxiliary air valve.

It is currently not working so I'd like to try cleaning it out and checking it with my multimeter before I replace it.

[divace73]

How should I go about cleaning my auxillary air valve.

It is currently not working so I'd like to try cleaning it out and checking it with my multimeter before I replace it.

I've used brake cleaner....kinda worked for me thus far....don't forget there is also that small nut that allows you to adjust the gap a little.

[joelittel]

Thanks. Did you remove the electrical parts before applying the brake cleaner?

[So Cal Mark]

there isn't any reason the aav should get dirty. It gets filtered air only

[divace73]

there isn't any reason the aav should get dirty. It gets filtered air only

I did manage to get one out of an Alfa (didn't know what model) but it was full of oil???

[So Cal Mark]

that would indicate really excessive blowby; broken ring or piston probably. If it's full of oil, you have more problems than a non-functioning aav

[divace73]

that would indicate really excessive blowby; broken ring or piston probably. If it's full of oil, you have more problems than a non-functioning aav

Luckily the aav was laying around for me to take, clean and use.....

[bradartigue]

that would indicate really excessive blowby; broken ring or piston probably. If it's full of oil, you have more problems than a non-functioning aav

They still seem to get crud in them over the years. I think it is due to the tiny amount of "backfire" you get when the car is turned off. Same reason why the plenum interior and the output side of the throttle body get gunked up. Over time, they gunk up. However, they should never, ever, ever be full of oil or anything near that as Mark noted above. I'm talking about a decade or so accumulation resulting into a brownish varnish over the interior of the parts is all.

Also note that the AAR will work if disconnected or not so long as the metal plate in it can move, it simply works better - closes at the right time - when plugged in. It's just a thin piece of metal (a "bimetallic strip") and a resistor. The resistor gets hot and heats up the metal, which moves while expanding to cover the hole. Your engine bay will eventually heat it up as well, just not as fast, and the car will idle too high when this is going on. On a cold day it may never close.

Someone manufactured a manual AAR at some point, the SAAB folks have them here and there. Had a wire just like an old choke mechanism. It was at one of the many times in SAAB's history that they had shortages (or ceased to exist).

[wizard124]

How should I go about cleaning my auxiliary air valve.

It is currently not working so I'd like to try cleaning it out and checking it with my multimeter before I replace it.

go here:
http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22898

[joelittel]

Thanks for posting the link above. I have read that thread and I can say with certainty that I need to replace mine. Its shot and probably has been for a while.

Shopping for a new/used one now.