Replacing Brake Hoses
Replacing Brake Hoses
I started having dragging brakes problem, sometimes they would grab while at a stop and sometimes the car would roll freely. The brakes work fine aside from the occasional grab and the master cylinder is roughly two years old. I'm about to replace the front and rear hoses, but after searching the forum and seeing some of the problems, thought I would ask the experts (cause I'm not one of them!) if there was anything special I should know before starting the job. One thing I have learned is to jack up the rear from the axle when doing the rear hoses. I've never done this before. Thanks
Re: Replacing Brake Hoses
nothing out of the ordinary when replacing these hoses. Jacking the rear probably won't be enough to bleed the rear. I disconnect the compensator link and tie it up so the compensator is fully open
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: Replacing Brake Hoses
Be sure to use good quality flare nut wrenches.
Plenty of PB Blaster or liquid wrench type penetrating oil
I like to heat the small fitting on the metal lines with a propane torch
If the fitting is frozen to the metal line the line twists as the fitting is turned. It takes patience, heat and lots of penetrating oil to free them with out damaging the metal lines.
Be sure to install new copper washers where ever they are used
Plenty of PB Blaster or liquid wrench type penetrating oil
I like to heat the small fitting on the metal lines with a propane torch
If the fitting is frozen to the metal line the line twists as the fitting is turned. It takes patience, heat and lots of penetrating oil to free them with out damaging the metal lines.
Be sure to install new copper washers where ever they are used
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- Posts: 3959
- Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
- Location: Naramata B.C.
Re: Replacing Brake Hoses
I've cut the old hoses and then I could get a box end wrench on. Had a bucket of sawdust to sop up the fluid that made it to the floor.
The bleeder screws can be corroded into the calipers. heat, penetrating fluid and perhaps try and actually tighten them just a tad to see if the threads break free before un-doing them.
Chris
The bleeder screws can be corroded into the calipers. heat, penetrating fluid and perhaps try and actually tighten them just a tad to see if the threads break free before un-doing them.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
Re: Replacing Brake Hoses
Well that's why I come to this forum. You guys know all the tricks and have dealt with many issues. I went to remove the hoses and they didn't budge. Started to pour on the PB Blaster and they are soaking now. Haven't messed with the bleeder screws yet. Your saying you cut the hose and crank from the hose side instead of the tube side? That's a good thought. It may come to that if pb blaster doesn't work. Thanks again!narfire wrote:I've cut the old hoses and then I could get a box end wrench on. Had a bucket of sawdust to sop up the fluid that made it to the floor.
The bleeder screws can be corroded into the calipers. heat, penetrating fluid and perhaps try and actually tighten them just a tad to see if the threads break free before un-doing them.
Chris
Re: Replacing Brake Hoses
FWIW - New at this myself, and when I tried to remove mine the fitting would not budge. Tried PB and torqued until my arm almost fell off. Threw the whole caliper into the back seat of my truck to show the guys at work the next day and ask for ideas. Left the thing in the car all day with the windows up in the heat - when I retrieved the caliper to show the guys it twisted off just as loose and easy as could be. Something to be said for PB, heat, preparation, and patience.