Fuel pump,creative ideas needed

[ga.spyder]

Hey guys,my ongoing saga continues.My ElCheapo pump failed and I have installed my used ,but good working ,Bosch fuel pimp.I also installed my inline strainer in front of the pump.Car is running great.I purchased a new Bosch pump,that is made for a Volvo.Got it for $100 shipped.Great price.The issue is that it has a different 'snout' than the Fiat model.The Fiat stock type has a hose nipple molded on the end.This pump has a large threaded end. My first instinct was to find a threaded hose end nipple and screw it on.But if you look at the end of both pumps,there is a restriction built into them.I assume that is to raise the pressure?I am afraid if I put a unrestricted end,my pressure will be low.My options? I think I could thread a hose nipple onto the threaded end of the new pump,or change to a large enough hose to go over that end to the filter? I need some creative thinkers!! The good news that the car is running fine on the old Bosch pump(purchased here,thanks).I do want to get the new one on,for peace of mind,and keep the old Bosch as a spare.Also,Autozone gave me a brand new generis after the last one failed,so I have plenty of fuel pumps!!!!

[So Cal Mark]

the pics are pretty blurry, but I believe you're looking at the check valve and calling it a restriction. The check valve holds pressure in the system when off, so restarts are quick. A restriction in the outlet would raise pressure in the pump, not the system and there isn't any need for that

[focodave]

Looks like all you need is a brass threaded hose barb fitting and you are good to go...

[ga.spyder]

Thanks Mark and Dave. I picked up a fitting this afternoon. I also picked up a couple connectors as the Volvo setup uses round non-threaded push on electrical connectors. Sorry about the lousy pics On the plus side....I have fuel pump changing down to a art form!!
ps...should I remove the check valve assembly or just thread the hose barb onto the end. The fitting I bought threads onto that assembly .I can get a different one to thread into the pump body.Thanks again
Craig

[So Cal Mark]

I would keep the check valve in place

[ga.spyder]

Thanks Mark...that's what I will do

[ga.spyder]

I got this resolved.Since the threads weren't standard,I had to adapt a hydraulic fitting to the check valve.It made the fuel pump looooong!.I fabbed a new mount for the filter,and jumper wires to the pump.It is working fine,and I can go back to my other Bosch pump by pulling the jump wires and moving the filter back to its original position.It was a battle,but hey,I saved $100+

[Dougieb]

A check valve also keeps the fuel in the lines from turning to
gasseous form and creating a vapor lock situation when
the engine is turned off and hot.

I learned this the hard way with a Porsche.

I would definately leave the check valve there for this reason
and also for Mark's.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks,per Marks suggestion I did leave the check valve in place.It had the odd threads that made it a challenge to get this installed.But hey,perserverance wins out!!!!In the end it was worth saving the money on the specific pump.I wasn't so sure as I combed the parts houses looking for a fitting that would work!!!

[Dougieb]

Just glad to help keep us Georgia Spiders on the road!
Ha ha

[ga.spyder]

Now,if it would just quit raining long enough to drive 'em!!!

[onejohny]

If you are going though pumps that fast you should probably clean out the fuel tank. I ran mine down to abut two gallons and used a clean oil change bucket to drain the tank. Mine has a drain plug on the bottom of the tank. I then siphoned the gas through a coffee filter added the gas back to the tank and repeated. It doesn't take much sediment to plug up the check valve. You can blow out the sediment with an compressed air in gas lines/check valves etc. Use some Lucas fuel treatment in the gas to keep the ethanol gas from rusting the tank. I went through 3 fuel pumps until I cleaned out the tank and lines. Also check for kinked fuel hoses in the trunk.

[ga.spyder]

My fuel system is new from the gas cap to the injectors.Lines,filters,hoses,clamps,pressure regulator,etc...I even put a strainer in front of the pump.No debris.I went thru a couple pumps before discovering the tank debris(non metallic,not rust!) was running thru my system.This pump that just failed was the last remaining from all my issues last year.It did have some crud run thru it before I put the new tank in.I bought a Volvo specific Bosch pump for $90 shipped! Great price,but I ran into issues(see above) with fitment.All is well now,and I have a spare Bosch pump and a brand new ElCheapo from Autozone,as they replaced the one that failed.!
I agree that everyone should check their tank.With 30 years of who knows what running thru there,and this ethanol crap eating your system from the inside!! I ran a magnet thru mine and thought it was fine because of no rust. WRONG!! All the debris,which resembled sand,was non metallic rubber(?) from hoses breaking down from the inside.
The drain plug in the fuel tank is an awesome idea!

[leeputmanjr]

Craig, you're absolutely right!

I replaced (almost) my entire fuel system from the filler elbow / tank / trunk lines / pump / steel lines / engine bay lines / fuel filter. I STILL GOT DEBRIS!

My filler neck (the one item not replaced) turns out to have had a chalky build-up of white dust, left behind when the FULL TANK of gas evaporated over the 31 years the car sat. Filling the car with new gas slowly disolved it, and it left a film on my fuel filter element (glass type, so I can see), but the darned film was transparent when wet!



I never figured out my fuel starvation issue until one night I pulled that darn element, and then I got distracted by a phone call, which gave the filter element time to dry.

That was a pickle to solve, but once I did, The Beast burst to life & has been fantastic ever since

-Lee

[ga.spyder]

It is the stupid little problems that drive you crazy! The bigger issues are usually more apparent