DIY on flushing brake sysem?

[ylbill]

Can someone please tell me a step by step process on flushing the brake system? I searched the forum, but didn't find a detailed description on how its done. Brakes are fine, but its been a couple years, so I'm thinking its time. 82 FI - Thanks

[azruss]

Suck as much fluid as you can out of the reservior with a turkey baster being VERY careful not to spill any fluid on the paint. Refill with fresh fluid. start bleeding the brakes starting with the backs and moving forward to rt front, then left front. Bleed until you see clear brake fluid. keep an eye on the reservior and top up when needed.

[81SPIDERMATT]

yep just that simple.... there is a pretty good blue brake fluid out also... easy to see when your done..

[RRoller123]

Holy Moly! If any of you haven't bled the brake lines for awhile, it would be a good idea to do so. I finally got it done yesterday, and look at the color of the nice clear fluid that came out! I have had the car for a little less than 2 years and this is my first brake flush, so it had obviously been in there for a loooong time. Unfortunately, I could only get 3 of the 4 nipples to open. The front right would not budge. I put some PB Blaster on it and with any luck I will be able to loosen it soon with no damage.

[81SPIDERMATT]

it should also be mentioned that you must have weight on the rear axle when bleeding the back.... jack stands under the axle will accomplish this... weight on the axle will allow the brake compensator to allow fluid to the rear calipers for bleeding ... if you support the car by the jacking points and let the rear wheels hang you can not bleed the rear brakes....

passenger rear ... drivers rear... passenger front ... driver front.... order for bleeding... they sell pumps and gadgets for bleeding by yourself.... some guys swear by them some do not.... i have always been a pedal pushing brake bleed kinda guy.... gets the other half involved....

also i have used a small tube that fit over the bleed screw ... this does two things... puts the bleeding fluid where you want it and not dripping all over and you can see bubbles in the tube... alhtough if all goes well you should not let any air into the system while you change the fluid

[giuliot60]

Good advice from those who chimed in.

Brake fluid tends to absorb water over time, so it is recommended that fluid be drained and replaced with new at least every 2 years.

GT

[westy64]

Can someone please tell me a step by step process on flushing the brake system? I searched the forum, but didn't find a detailed description on how its done. Brakes are fine, but its been a couple years, so I'm thinking its time. 82 FI - Thanks

well, is flushing the same than bleeding ?

To bleed I would add the following, being step by step.
You fill the reservoir, being very careful, etc....
You remove the rear right wheel (lifting your car)
You lift the rear axle to put the compensator in load.
You bleed this caliper the usual way.

Then you refill the reservoir and do the rear left wheel,

Then the same for the the front right,

Then the same for the left front wheel.

Did you ever bleed brakes ?
If you did not, you might need some more explanations and advises, as you will experience the joy of having brake fluid flushing out of the bleeding nipples, which is always very unpleasant.
You will have to locate the lifting points to lift the car and the points to put the stands and the place to put your jack to lift the rear axle.

I did it recently and was advised to lift the car by the pumpkin (put a protection first), then put the stands under the jacking points (just ahead of the rear wheels), and lift again the axle for the compensator.

Maybe not very clear, due to my english.
I will let the specialists use the right words on this...

[ylbill]

Thanks everyone! As usually, I can count on the people from this forum being a BIG help! I think I have it now, but if anyone wants to add their tips and tricks there always welcome. Oh westy64, I could easily understand your step by step instructions. I'm always jealous of anyone that speaks a different language than there native country, let alone writing it too. Thanks

[garion]

You also might want to look into speedbleeders. They replace your bleeder screw with a one way valve. Makes it much easier to bleed, and less chance of getting air into the system. Inexpensive too.

[RRoller123]

I use the 8mm wrench (or a deep socket), to slightly loosen the nipple. Then I tighten it back up a little, and slip a 3/16" clear plastic hose over it tightly and run it down into a small container, maybe quart/liter size. I then top up the master, and get my 16 y/o kid in the car (he loves this) and have him put light pressure on the brake pedal while I open the nipple and fluid runs out. We have a set of calls back and forth that indicate where we are, so it goes like this:

I say "PRESSURE" and he steps on the pedal. I then loosen the nipple to let some fluid out.

He calls out "BOTTOM" when the pedal hits bottom. I immediately tighten the nipple a little.

He calls out "TOP when the pedal gets back up top. I then call out "PRESSURE" and the cycle begins anew.

I check the reservoir about every tenth cycle and top it up.

We flushed the whole system in about an hour this way, including futzing around with the wheels on and off and the nipples being stuck etc. (Still have to do the RF though, it was true stuck).

Jack the rear end up under the Differential and you don't have to worry about the compensator, and you can do both rear wheels with no changing of the jack.

Pete

[wikkid]

I have a vacuum bleeder pump, and I like it because it pulls the fluid through instead of pushing it. Probably not a big distinction, but I think it more likely to be able to pull any "stuck" air bubble through than trying to push it. That's just my experience with motorcycle brake systems, so I don't know if there are likely areas along the Fiat brake system where bubbles could get lodged inline.

[majicwrench]

Careful with your bleeders, is easy to snap off and create more work. If they are stuck, I would leave em be. PB Blaster type stuff is likely not gonna do it. If you must get em loose, heat is better solution. Again, if they are stuck and you want to go for a drive soon, leave em be.
Nice thing about brake fluid, like was said, it absorbs water easily.(there's a word for this-hmmm) It's designed that way, to keep water from puddling in cylinders. So now you have a system with fluid that has water in it. And you manage to drain half of it, but some bleeders are stuck. The water that's still in there will spread thru out the new fluid, lessening the chance of it causing rust problems anywhere.
Really, you never get all the fluid out anyway, the bleeder are at the top near the inlet, the fluid on the bottom of the caliper/cylinder just sits there.
Keith

[RRoller123]

hydroscopic

[wikkid]

hydroscopic

I love it when you talk like that

[RRoller123]

hahahah!
(i probublee speled it wrung)