Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

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bran100
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Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

I know it's highly variable, but I'm trying to put together a ballpark budget for a couple different levels of a 2.0 rebuild for a stock FI motor with 150k miles. The only detectable internal issue I have is there's a little smoke on startup, so I assume I'll need to replace the guides if I dig that deep.

My question is related to #3 below, and how much (very ballpark) machining work will cost to rework the head

Ultimate goal is to fix the oil leak in the cam tower gasket, however I also want to improve power within a limited budget of perhaps $1500-$2000.

Here's my options, in order as I dig deeper into the engine:
1. Fix the immediate issue of the oil leak in the cam tower gasket (exhaust side), tuning valves in the process
2. Add new cams, and adjustable gears
3. Pull the head, deck it, add new valves (oversize?), seats and guides
4. Rework the bottom end with oversize pistons, rings and bearings, lightened flywheel and clutch

I'm sure I missed lots of detail here, and probably can't get to #4 given the budget (I'll do everything but machine work), however, I appreciate your thoughts on this summer project.
narfire
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by narfire »

personally I think you might be a bit shy $$$ wise for what you want done.
Any chance in sourcing another 2L block and 1800 head and perhaps build them up as $$$ permit?
Go to a vendors website, AR for example, or Allison's auto, and price out new bearings, gasket kit(seals are usually included), the oversized pistons, new cams (recommend Mark's 274 FI cams) adjustable cam gears. re-boring here is about $60.00/hole and then another $2-250.00 to balance everything including a lightened flywheel . Getting the head done??? I've been told that oversized valves might be a bit of a waist if you are not running in the 5-7000rpm range all the time(racing?) Regardless, head work with a re-cut of the valves and seats can be upwards of $500.00 or more. Headers???

So add it all up and see where you are. I bet you are going to be closer to $4-5000.00 than $2000.00
Just my opinion.. as I have done it with my FI engine.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
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bran100
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

I'm actually hoping to get through #1-3 within my budget. I don't believe I'll be able to pull off the bottom end.
BEEK
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by BEEK »

you can easily do 1-3 within your budget. mark has the cams, a few vendors sell the valves and the adjustable cam gears or just get the cam gears from jason miller who makes them
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider
, 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
So Cal Mark

Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by So Cal Mark »

I'd certainly recommend assessing the bottom end and cylinders before attempting to increase performance. Do a leak down test to see how well the rings seal.
BEEK
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by BEEK »

agreed with mark. definatly do a compression test and a leak down test before you decide where you are going with the project.
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider
, 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
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bran100
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

Compression is good and pretty even across all cylinders.

I can pick up one of these this week to do the leak down. How much psi do you pump for the test? The online manual has no indication of how to do the test, and over what time period.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cylinder-l ... 94190.html

It's pretty likely I can find TDC, for one cylinder, however what's the process to hit the other 3?

Thanks for the replies
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bran100
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

Is Jason Miller aka Miller's Mule? If so, he's already on my supply list along with Mark for cams and valves, and Vick's for lots of gaskets and seals.
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81SPIDERMATT
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by 81SPIDERMATT »

you tube is your friend for the leak down tester.... there are a couple that will explain the procedure.... 100 lbs of pressure is the max ...the closer you can get to that pressure the easier it will be to hear "where" the air is escaping .. if properly set up it will not take long to know the results of the test..recomend doing 3 or 4 test per cylinder and getting an average.... got to make sure you are on the compression stroke of each cylinder that you are testing..... and that it is at the top of that stroke.... the unit you are looking at will have instructions in it also
BEEK
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by BEEK »

good and even, what numbers are you getting? and yes jason miller is millers mule
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider
, 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
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bran100
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

Last I checked, all cylinders were in the 168-170 psi range, so I can vouch for even and I assume that's decent?
BEEK
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by BEEK »

sounds like the internals are in good shape
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider
, 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
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bran100
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Re: Rebuilding a perfectly good (I mean slow) motor

Post by bran100 »

Pulled the head today, but now I'm heading out of town for the week. I'll continue next weekend on stripping it down and preparing to ship.

The piston walls look great as far as I know. I can still see the crosshatch pattern, and aside from a bit of carbon buildup, I don't feel any wear on the walls from the rings.

I'm wondering if I can just clean up the walls (not bore) and get higher compression pistons. I'll be going with Mark's 274FI cams and adjustable gears.

Here's my album that I'll keep updated:
https://www.adoberevel.com/shares/083db ... 0fe16f6a5e
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