No Choke?!

[pgilling]

I'm in the UK and I recently acquired a 1977 Californian spec' spider with a 32ADFA carb'. I've not run it much as I'm refurbishing the interior. I do have problems starting the engine but when it does eventually start after several attempts it runs well.

I assumed that the poor starting was due to fuel supply issues or the plug leads needing replacing, but I'm now wondering if its the carb. It has had the tubes to water choke blocked off and I assumed it was an electric choke firstly because there is no choke cable fitted and also because of the wire going to the side of the carb. But I now realise that the wire goes to a solenoid.

The choke flap is around 70% closed and when the engine is hot it does not move when the engine is warm. The engine runs ok but I assume it must be running rich.

Can anyone tell me if people sometimes didn't bother fitting alternative chokes after removing the water pipes due to the warmer Californian climate and accepted the rich mixture? Or have I missed something?!

Assuming I haven't missed something, if the choke is missing would anyone recommend an electric or manual conversion?

[majicwrench]

If the choke plate is there and the unit that heats with water sounds to me like choke is not "missing".
Choke plate should snap shut with engine cold. You may have to open throttle briefly. Does it snap shut???
A picture would help a lot.
People do all sorts of stupid things to their carbs.
Keith

[pgilling]

Hello Keith, I've seen pictures of ones with the electric heater and they look different to mine with an obvious attachment on the side. Whereas the lead on mine goes to the solenoid.

You're right, the choke is not actually missing but the mechanism that actuates it is missing I think. It does not snap shut but always stays approximately 70% closed.

I've posted it on Flicker, so hopefully you can see it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16627067@N ... hotostream

Phil

[majicwrench]

Yours is not electric heated so yes it will look diff. Yes wire goes to soleniod.
Can you push with finger on that choke plate and open and shut it?? it should move freely.

[pgilling]

Hi majicwrench, yes it moves freely with a light mechanical resistance. The level disappears into the body of the carb' and I can't see any external linkage. But it doesn't seem to move when the engine heats up.

[majicwrench]

It depends on the coolant flowing thru it to heat it. Without coolant flow it will likely never open. Hook up the hoses.
Keith

[So Cal Mark]

the water chokes are pretty troublesome, it's common to find the hose nipples full of corrosion that prevents the choke from getting hot. It can easily be converted to an electric unit. I never thought putting water in a carb was a good idea

[pgilling]

So I guess I was right in that there is nothing fitted to actuate the choke. Does anyone know if the electric choke conversion requires any additional linkage or is it a simple fit?

[So Cal Mark]

it's a simple conversion, just replace the choke cover with the eletric cover, and connect switched power to it

[pgilling]

Thanks So Cal Mark, I'll see if I can source them in Europe, although I've half a mind to just replace it with a 32/36 DGAV as I intended to fit one some time anyway. Apparently they are a great replacement for the 32 ADFA.

[majicwrench]

Why not just hook up the water hoses and see if it works??
Keith

[pgilling]

Fair point, I may try it although I suspect it will be choked up with calcium deposits seeing as the heater valve was completely solid with the stuff!

[pgilling]

Having checked the water choke it's very clean inside. However, the choke plate is a bit sloppy so I think I'll just go ahead and buy a 32/36 DGAV as that is my eventual plan anyway.

[124JOE]

there should be a nipple on the intake by the firewall
and one on the heater core feed tube by the water pump
i also have a calif car 1800,witch i switched out the carb to a 32/36
much better.the wire for the solenoid i used for the choke