Spider 2000 Cranking Problem

[mchalem89]

Hello All,

After wonderful advice about the timing on my car I've moved on to the next part of getting it to run right or start this year. Unfortunately, now it doesn't crank normally and sounds like the battery is dead even though its not. My original problem was that the car would start fine cold almost every time but then after it got warmed up and it was shut off it would hesitate cranking until it cooled down completely again. This became a major headache if I went to any destination that was less than an all day affair.

Unfortunately, now i'm at the point where the cranking problem has gone beyond the point where the car was hot and now the first start of the year it barely cranks. Last year I put a new battery in and today i'm getting 13.78 volts while jumping it just to make sure. I have attached a video of trying to start it so you can all hear how it is struggling. I'm at a loss for what this could be and hopefully someone can point me in the right direction. Let me know if any other details or clarification is needed.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/u ... directlink

-Matt

[So Cal Mark]

you need to check voltage at the battery post on the starter solenoid to determine if you're getting sufficient voltage to operate the starter. Check voltage both with and without load.

[mchalem89]

You have to forgive my inexperience with the electrical with these cars. This will be my first time doing anything with testing connections other then the battery voltage. Luckily I have a good voltmeter. Are there any other posts with more specifics on testing the solenoid, exact location and what to do depending on what voltage reading I get. I do have the shop manual for the car so i'm wondering if there is anything in there.

Thanks,

Matt

[mchalem89]

you need to check voltage at the battery post on the starter solenoid to determine if you're getting sufficient voltage to operate the starter. Check voltage both with and without load.

Mark, the tip was awesome!

I tested everything and it looks like the solenoid is bad. Only getting between 6 and 8 volts at the red wire under load. It occasionally spikes up and then the engine cranks but as soon as its under the 9.6v threshold I get nothing. I ordered a new solenoid so hopefully that does the trick. I took the solenoid off and there are a round metal plug that the spring went around that is still on the starter where the solenoid came off. Does that come off too or do I leave it? It's just loose in there. I didn't want to force it off so I figured it would be safer to ask here rather then do something I shouldn't.

[TX82FIAT]

Before installing the new solenoid. You mentioned 6 to 8 volts on the red wire under load that would spike occasionally. Check all your connection points. in particular look at the connection by the shock mounts. I would not think it is the ignition switch based on where i think you tested the voltage if that is any help.

[mchalem89]

I guess I should check more connection points. The large ground wire that goes from the body to the trans was really dirty and the mounting point so I cleaned that one and that seems to have made a difference. I also tested the voltage at the red wire a few different times without a load and I was constantly getting over 12 volts.

My only problem now is that I just got an e-mail from the solenoid supplier and they don't have it available. I called IAP this morning and they don't have the solenoid or the starter available. If I was to order it from IAP I need to wait until to mid summer because IAP has to get the part from Europe since they no longer have a supplier here.

[majicwrench]

If you are sure you need a starter/soleniod you should buy one from the site's sponsor, So Cal Mark.

I very very seldom just change the soleniod, if you are sure it is bad change starter/soleniod as a unit.
Keith