Replacing Engine - With Photos as I Progress - DONE!

[focodave]

Well I am all in.
I'm officially well on my way to getting the seized engine out of the car.
Looks like it was a rod bearing (#2 cylinder) that was making my knocking sound. I didn't want to believe it was a rod, but it was.
I have removed the head per Mark's instructions, so that I could see the starter bolts and how to get to them.
Wow!
I feel that any of us who have removed a Spider starter should automatically be inducted into some sort of special elite club. That was rough, to say the least. I can't imagine what new cuss words I am going to invent trying to put that thing back in!
I have all of the tranny bolts out, as well. Again, I can't imagine the words I will invent trying to get THOSE back in!
I have a question about the motor mounts: I have removed the top nuts and washers from the mounts.
Can I leave the motor mount studs in place and lift the engine off of them?
A few photos are following. I will add photos as I progress through this daunting task:

[So Cal Mark]

the only time I've seen seized rod bearings is when the oil pump pickup is broken off. You can leave the mounts in place when you remove the motor. Removing the tranny bolts is much easier if you have a 36" extension and a swivel socket

[81SPIDERMATT]

woo hoo.... lets yank it tomorrow...i sleep till 10 on sundays then i am yours all day if your game.... surprised you dont have the hood off

[focodave]

Haha.
Matt, you are too kind in your offer to help.
I really appreciate the offer.
I am going to wait though, until my "new" engine arrives before I pull the old one.
That way I only have to deal with the cherry picker for a day or two.
(pull the old one -- swap some pieces -- then drop in the new one -- then get the cherry picker out of my way)
I have limited space in my garage, so I am carefully trying to time everything so as to reduce the hassles of having every square inch of my work-space populated with stuff.
Yes, the hood definitely has to come off. I'll do that this week.
Today I am going to clean up my intake manifold to get it ready to install on the replacement motor.
Then I need to spend some quality time with the wife, as she has been pretty gracious throughout this whole process allowing me to spend lots of time and money on this car.
I am getting away with it because she is just an awesome person, and she also really enjoys our drives in the mountains in this car.
With any luck, I'll be back on the road in about a month -- hopefully in time to attend the show in Broomfield in June.
Dave

[81SPIDERMATT]

you should register the car for automezzi now as incentive ha ha .. leaving sat for florida till the 6th of may... keep me posted

[majicwrench]

Hoods, just FYI, I leave the hoods on almost every car or truck I remove engines from. Just that many more nuts and bolts, PLUS tis very easy to ding hoods or fenders when removing and installing them. That said, bet is has been 20 years since I pulled a Spider engine, don't recall if I pulled hood or not.
Keep us posted...
Keith

[narfire]

With the head off, intake off, starter off and exhaust removed, I'll be betting a ceiling rafter would be strong enough... Once it is out, might give you time to clean and tidy up the engine bay (open another can of worms)
I'd give er a whirl... your call though..
Chris

[focodave]

Thanks for the comments guys.
Here is my intake manifold, cleansed of 33 years of crud and grime.:

[Kevin1]

Looking good. What did you use to clean the manifold? It looks cleaner than new.

[focodave]

by Kevin1 on Sun Apr 21, 2013 4:26 pm
Looking good. What did you use to clean the manifold? It looks cleaner than new.

Kevin,
First, I scraped what I could reach with a putty knife.
Then I used CRC Spray Engine Cleaner, then CRC Brake Cleaner, then a brass wire wheel on a high-speed drill.
Dave

[majicwrench]

Sealing surfaces should not be cleaned with a wire wheel. They need to be FLAT.
Keith

[SLOSpider]

Blah Ive used steel wire wheels and files before

looking good!
I used wire wheel in a can:

[focodave]

Sealing surfaces should not be cleaned with a wire wheel. They need to be FLAT.
Keith

Keith,
I don't know you, so I am not sure if you are trying to engage in a debate or not.
I'll keep my answer simple and short so as to avoid someone misinterpreting the spirit of my response.
I used a very soft wire wheel (brass) and was very gentle.
My preference is to use a gasket scraper, but my scraper was not doing the job (and, yes it is properly sharpened).
I am guessing that the manifold was never removed since the car was new. I am not sure about that, but the gasket was pretty stubborn, as if it had been on the car for 33 years.
The purpose of a gasket is to accommodate imperfections in mating surfaces.
I can assure you that I did not introduce any worse imperfections into the machined surface of the intake manifold, than were already there from when the thing was manufactured.
Theoretically, whether one uses a scraper or a wire brush, some minute amount of metal is removed from the machined surface -- if even on just a molecular level.
Yes, I could have probably used a chemical solution to help remove the gasket, but I contend that if one uses a very soft wire wheel with a light touch, the mating surface will not get destroyed to the point where a gasket will not create a proper seal.
At least not in this particular application.
Dave

[majicwrench]

Dave,
Nope, not trying to debate, I can get kind of blunt sometimes about things. I see surfaces (esp Subaru heads) ruined from "mechanics" with their power gasket removal tools. THe moment I saw that intake I could see the swirly marks in the intake sealing surface and I cringed. Realisticly, as you know, that is not going to create any issues at all on a fiat intake, but still, I do cringe when I see people take power tools to aluminum.
Thanks for putting up with me.
Keith

[DocGraphics]

A trick I learned way back when for prepping mating surfaces is a piece of 320 grit emery cloth (or finer) wrapped around a long, very flat sanding block (I have a piece of hardwood 1X4 I've used for years) to prep the mating surface. It flattens it, gives it an ever so slight tooth for the gaskets to mate too & if the surface is not flat will show the low spots when sanded. I just make sure that I only sand straight strokes in one direction, slightly diagonal longways, then crosshatch back the other way with straight strokes, NOT round & round which may crown the surface & make it seal worse, plus it will remove any gasket/sealer not removed in the prep.

If it does show some low spots & they're slight you can continue to sand them out flat (again slightly diagonal longways works best, keeping the block flat on the surface as you go)

My gramdpa did something like this when he was making miniature steam engines, for the brass sliding valve mating surfaces he would put a pieces of EXTRA FINE emery cloth on a piece of glass & sand the brass part back & forth across IT to get it perfectly flat.