73 Fiat Spider 2.0

[BEEK]

by the way, the engine number is not the number cast into the side of the block, it is stamped above the oil filter housing or above the drivers side motor mount in later efi blocks

[SLOSpider]

IF YOUR EXHAUST MANIFOLD HAS A O2 SENSOR IN IT , IT IS FROM A EFI 2.0

Took a look at it today and it may have been added. I forgot to take pics but will tomorrow. Not a lot of progress as I had to do some rewiring of the distributor and fuel pump. Go the rear trans mount back in and the motor mounts sitting back in place. Not looking forward to trying to get the washers and nuts back on the bottom, PITA!

PITA items on spiders
Starters
Clutch Cables
Rear shocks, sometimes fronts
Crank nuts
Lower motor mount nuts - reinstall
Shift lever remove and install
Rear Axle snap rings
Nuts to hold light switch dimmer and wiper speed switch.

Also got new fuel lines on the pump and new filter installed. Drained the old gas even though it smelled ok I know its 2 years old and with new filter and injectors why risk it. Coil some what moved to the right side but needs better mounting. Charging battery so when I get new fuel tomorrow we might be able to see if she wants to run. I still need to see why I didn't have power to the pump when I first brought it home. I don't know if they ran it off the AFM or just was the stock wiring, that is if the 73 had an electric pump. Seems its hit or miss between the years that had them.

If that all goes good then reinstall the radiator and driveshaft and get her back on the ground for a test drive.

[Weelan]

actually the lower motor mount bolts are fairly easy. if you look at the mounts from the top, you can see you have just enough room to get the washers and nuts back on, then go get the wrench and go at it from below.

Unless you already knew all this. haha.

Another tip on engine mounts is that if you position your head below roughly the middle of the oil pan/crossmember intersection (helps if you have a flashlight), you can see the bolt and eventually the socket when you get it on there correctly.

[SLOSpider]

Thanks Ryan. Its the whole getting the flat washer and the lock washer and the nut all in the same place and trying to catch a few threads while my mangle arm, which I broke 3 times, and cadaver held down shoulder, I cant turn and get into places I did pretwenty something. Doesn't help with the FI manifold, hoses and wires in the way too . By the time Im done bitching about it it could already be done

[Weelan]

I gotcha, putting them on from above should be doable for you still. I was able to put the washers on and balance them to not fall off when I reached for the nut and put it on. That way you might be able to do it one handed. That's what I did.

[SLOSpider]

Bad news. When trying to remove the crank nut before I used the impact the pulley was turning. Being I thought I had a 2.0 that wouldn't hit the valves I didn't worry about it. But when I went to install the 2.0 timing belt it was too long and THEN figured out I must have the 1.6 motor or 1.8 in it. With no block numbers I don't know what it is. Well got after I started to worry about the valves and sure enough went to start it and it didn't sound good, spun too free. Checked timing marks and ok and removed pugs and all I get is 30 psi on one cylinder. Damn!

So now I don't know what to do. I have a 1.8 in the back yard I know runs. Or I can get a used 2.0 up above San Francisco area or a rebuilt 2.0 for about 1600.00. I wish I was a drinking . I don't want to redo this head with new valves cause I think that is just throwing money away with the lower compression 1600. Plus I did notice some run out play in the front crank when I was removing the pulley.

I could pull the head off the 1.8 put it on this is a 1600 motor I might as well just install the whole engine. Im getting pretty wore down at this point. So far I have only wasted some oil, intake gastket and front seal money on this mistake.

[narfire]

Ok a knee jerk suggestion...
Take the head off and have a look as to what is going on. Takes about 1-1/2 hours or less. The bottom end look(piston tops) good? If it is a 80 mm bore then perhaps Auto Italia might have a 1600 head. If the 84 mm bore then perhaps consider taking the head from the 1800 in the back yard depending on the valves I guess.
The now 1800 short block, perhaps consider rebuild/re-fresh that if and when time ($$ ) permit.
Just a knee jerk reaction as to what I might do. Take a weekend to re/re heads

[SLOSpider]

Thanks Nar. I think Ill do that in any case it will make getting the engine out easier. Think Ill go get some smokes and lunch and tackle pulling the head off before dark thirty.

[SLOSpider]

Ok so maybe jumped too fast. I pulled the head in less than an hour only to see that the valves looked ok. I haven't tried to poor some fluid down them yet. The bore measures 83.5? so maybe it really 84 1800?

If you have been following the intake camshaft was redilled and I thought it was due to loose pin hole. But no I find that it actually moved the camshaft to a different location. WIth the other spare intake pulley installed and set at its mark it seems I had some valves open at the same time:





When I reinstalled the pulley that was redilled and set it to the white mark on the rear someone made valves seemed to be correct and not finding overlap in opening of valves.





Photobucket is messing up and not resizing correct but I think you can get the point. So now Im wondering WTF. I thought all cams and gears were the same for all the Fiat engines. Are there different pullies for an FI 2.0?

How in the world am I suppose to know the correct index or degree of the intake cam to make sure the marks are correct? I think the valves are ok it was just a intake pulley problem but not sure what I want to do now. Minimum would be put it back together with new head gasket ( whatever size I need to order????) and use the old pulley with their marking. I think tomorrow Ill look at the spare engine intake cam position and maybe that will clue me in. Errrrrrr

[BEEK]

i need a few more pictures and i can tell you exactly what you have. first if you can take a picture of the engine serial number and series located just above the oil filter housing, that would be perfect. also take a picture of the drivers side of the block. take a picture of the top of the head.

from what i see right now, i would say you have a 2.0 head on a late 1800 block or a 2.0 block, but 1 thing is interesting is the lack of alternator mount stud on the drivers side. thats why i want the other pictures, and to see what size the crankcase vent is

[BEEK]

both valves will be open during the overlap phase of the exhaust stroke. this uses exhaust flow out of the cylinder to aid in pulling the intake charge into the cylinder

[SLOSpider]

Beek there is no numbers that's part of my problem:

[SLOSpider]

The head numbers match that of a 2.0 head.

Problem is why is the stock intake cam pulley not lining up and they had to drill a new dowel hole to reindex the intake cam? Different cam out of something? 2.0 FI take different intake pulley?

[BEEK]

that is an 1800 block, with late pistons in it, should be a 78 model, 132a1 .o4o.6

[SLOSpider]

Ok so I knew I propably couldn't sleep without knowing so I looked at my spare 1800 engine, thank god I have it. With the redrilled pulley on the 2.0 head and lined to their white mark, the intakes are pointing in the same position \. When I install the at the factory dowel hole its almost 180 out of sync. So Im wondering could someone have put an exhaust camshaft in there and would that explain whats going on?