Replacing valve seals

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ch33kster

Replacing valve seals

Post by ch33kster »

Hi,

Now that the winters months have taken full effect here in the UK I've decided its time to get dirty and replace the valve guide seals, which I think are the reasons for the huge plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust when free wheeling at full temperature.

I am thinking of getting the high performance nitrile valve guide seals ordered from AutoRicambi as I've read that these are better than the standard rubber seals. I was also thinking of getting a set of bronze valve guides to replace the originals since I was working in that area of my head.

I was also going to purchase the High Performance Iskenderian (Isky) valve spring set to replace the original springs which have never been replaced. I will be keeping the original valves, as long as they are straight.

I will replace the head gasket whilst I'm at it.

Is there anything that I should take into account when replacing these? Would I require anything else? and is it worth spending the extra money on these items?

Thanks in advance!
narfire
Posts: 3959
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 2:14 am
Your car is a: 1980 124 spider
Location: Naramata B.C.

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by narfire »

Are you sure it is the seals that are causing the plumes of smoke? I understand tired rings can let oil by and have the same effect.
Leak down test? Around the 13:30 point he gets into the test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc

Hope you didn't get flooded out. My Aunt in Taunton said it was quite a spell of rain.
Chris
80 FI spider
72 work in progress
2017 Golf R ( APR Stg. 1)
2018 F350 crew long box
mgbgtn

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by mgbgtn »

Leaking valve seals cause BLUE smoke on startup caused by the oil leaking by the seals after the motor is shut off. White smoke could be caused by water leaking by a blown head gasket or by brake fluid being pulled into the motor through the brake booster vacuum line. If you have an automatic, the motor will pull fluid up the vacuum line that goes to a modual on the side of the auto the governs the shift points. Just pull the lines off and check for oil in the lines.
vandor
Posts: 3996
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
Location: Texas, USA

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by vandor »

If you will be using the stock valves then you don't really need the bronze guides. Fiat used steel guides, and they last a long time.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
blusmith
Posts: 82
Joined: Sun May 29, 2011 3:00 am
Your car is a: 1982 124 spyder

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by blusmith »

Hi. Measure everything carefully and Proceed with caution: I have just rebuild a 1982 2000 and bought a set of bronze guides only to find they were too small and "fell through" the holes on the head. Chris
djape1977
Posts: 985
Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:08 pm
Your car is a: 1970 fiat 124bc
Location: Belgrade, Serbia, eastern Europe

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by djape1977 »

1608ccm has one size while 1756ccm and 1995ccm have diferent sized valve guides
vandor
Posts: 3996
Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
Location: Texas, USA

Re: Replacing valve seals

Post by vandor »

Yes, but the late ones are smaller, so that's not the problem, unless somebody installed an early head.
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
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