heater valve replacement in process

[TX82FIAT]

Folks, noticed the tell tale coolant on the passenger floor this morning on my way to coffee and cars San Antonio. This is the first time I put the heater on in a year. Used a 90 degree copper elbow I had in the garage to bypass the heater core so I could still drive the car. Started reading the older posts on this topic and my concern is not the contortionist position of my body but the lack of space to get at the 10mm nuts. Some people trim some of the plastic near the one bolt. Not concerned about the process other than access to these bolts. Any suggestions? Is it easier if I take out the center section of the console and drop the heater box? I'd like to do this without taking out the center console if possible.

[rlux4]

I can't help you on the console question, mine is the one piece leather covered model and so it had the whole thing had to come out. I don't see how you could do the job with it there though. The thing I want to bring to your attention if you're not already aware of it is the studs on the heater core. Be very careful taking off those two nuts, most likely they're stuck on pretty good and it's very easy to break off a stud. Soak 'em good with a penetrating oil before you try to loosen them.
Ron

[vandor]

I never really had problems with those bolts/nuts. They are hard to get to, but nothing that a 1/4 sockets set with a wobble could not handle.
If you need more clearance you could unclip one side of the heater box so you can lower/wiggle the heater core some.

[narfire]

The thing I want to bring to your attention if you're not already aware of it is the studs on the heater core. Be very careful taking off those two nuts

I agree Ron. I read here years ago that after the penitrating fluid, see if you can tighten the nuts the minutest amount before undoing.(don't break them off!!) If you can break the corrosion, they will come undone easier.
Brake bleeders were the same.

[Exit98]

Like I previously posted on my 76 the last 10mm was a pain, could only get maybe an 1/8 of a turn with an open end wrench. Csaba says a 1/4 in. drive but there was no way or room for me to get anything on there but the open end. That's why I trimmed the plastic afterwards.

On my 76 there was no need at all to remove the consoles or lower the heater box. I'm no mechanic, and it was a bit of a PIA but it went fine. My valve to heater core bolts weren't frozen though, thank goodness.

Problem is, once you fix the valve you might find your heater core is bad. That's what happened to me. Hope you don' t have that issue.

[TX82FIAT]

Well, sprayed liquid wrench Friday night and again Saturday night. Sunday night, first bolt to heater core came out just fine and was rather clean. Second bolt turned really easy..... broke in half with no real force telling me this was going to go anyway. Odered a new heater core to be safe. I live in Texas... do I really need a heater. I guess it is part of being able to say everything on the car works.

Looks like I'll be able to attach the new valve and pipes and slide the heater core in from the bottom. If anyone has any picks of the heater box apart with the core being fed in from the bottom that may help.

[Weelan]

My heater core is bypassed, but my car isn't nearly as nice as yours. My top doesn't seal perfectly anyway, so I don't see much point in the heater here in SA. Haha

[TX82FIAT]

Project creep... The jute pad along the trans tunnel is full of antifreeze like a sponge. Looks like the valve that was the leaking was what i could. The heater core must have had a very slow leak as well. I suspect the heater core was bad for some time and the valve just failed recently. The failed heater core was not noticed because i really dont use the heat more than once or twice a year. It may be a good practice to just turn the heat on every couple months to circuate the coolant and identify it there are any issues.

I guess now is as good of a time as any to take the seats out, take out all the old padding, POR 15 floor and install new insulation and carpet.

[Weelan]

Haha, that's some good project creep. Taking the seats out should help with the heater core change quit nicely though right? Give me a call if you need some help.

[TX82FIAT]

Heater failure is a blessing in disguise. Pulled out the seats an pulled up carpet and started cleaing. A small rust hole behind the passenger seat and a rust spot under the drivers feet. A couple other smal rust spots and a little external rust starting on the fuel line. So... started scaping off the tar.. huge PITA... Looks like a cleaning, rust treatment and POR15.

Floor pans are sound so the work now is ging to save me some problems in the future.

[narfire]

That is a great example of project creep...
Glad you caught it..

Wonder what will happen if you have to change the spark plugs....

[Exit98]

Looks like mind did. A very satisfying project. Good time to replace the carpet too if the old one's used up. Here's the link to my floor restore report: http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 30&t=18105.

Take pictures, good luck.

[dinosabella]

great topic, great tips, my passenger compartment started gushing coolant seconds after I dropped off a date this past summer, had she still been in the car she would have surely suffered serious burns to her perfectly pedicured sandaled feet.

What had happened was the fan belt broke, water pump stopped, water boiled and the radiator valve didn't pop so the next weakest link in the system was somewhere around the heater. I will be tackling finding the problem this coming weekend.

[TX82FIAT]

The overflow tank should have filled and possibly overflowed first. This is a good time to check your floor pans. I should be done with this change over the weekend since all parts have been delivered. just waiting on a new carpet from stock interiors.

I was looking at the 16mm hoses and thought of a possible alternative to replacing the short heater pipe with a new 5 degree bend pipe or cutting the pipe and using a hose with an enlarged the hole through the fire wall with a new grommet. What does everyone think about cutting an inch out of the short pipe and using about 3 inches of 16MM or 5/8 flexible coolant hose inside the cabin with a couple hose clamps. You would have a hard pipe then hose then hard pipe going through the firewall to join with the hose in the engine bay. This fix would only cost a couple bucks if you have a short pipe in good condition.

I have the short pipe wth the new bend and will use that but was thinking this quick fix could be done in a couple hours with no need to oder new parts outside of the valve if your core is still good.

[socaltino]

I have the short pipe wth the new bend and will use that but was thinking this quick fix could be done in a couple hours with no need to oder new parts outside of the valve if your core is still good.

Could you post a diagram of your idea. I can't quite picture it in my head. I'm currently having heater problems. My valve is not leaking and I see the shaft on the outside is turning, but no hot liquid is getting to the core. I have an idea that maybe the core is clogged, or the shaft that turns the valve internally is broken and the valve is stuck closed. Thanks.