Anti freeze leaking into passenger side - Help

[giuliot60]

Hi all.

I've been enjoying some nice weather here in Charlotte and driving the car a lot.

But today I started getting an anti-freeze leak into the passenger side dripping down the heater control cable. Fortunately, it started a few minutes from home and did not experience any engine temp change from normal.

Any ideas before I start digging? Heater core or a hose connection?

[rlux4]

Could be either. But a word of advice if/when you do the repair. Be careful of the two mounting studs at the heater valve, don't force them much, they're prone to breaking off.
Ron

[Exit98]

Most likely a bad heater control valve. That's what is was on mine anyway.

You should be able to tell by looking. Its a PITA but not as bad as I thought it would be. You need a light and you have to lay on the passenger side floor with your head in the footwell. Push the seat all the way back. I changed it out without pulling the lower console.

Of course once I fixed the valve and ran water through the heater core that was shot too, but I took care of that when I did my floors. Much easier than.

Good luck.

There's a bunch of threads, just search "heater valve". The third bolt holding on the valve, closest to the firewall is nearly impossible to get to. On mine there was an "ear" on the black heater box that almost completely blocked access to the bolt. I could get less than an 1/8 of a turn at a time with an open end (10mm I think). Once I got it off I took my Dremel and cut off some of the ear so next time it will be easier to get to.

[giuliot60]

Thanks Ron and Exit.

I'm pulling all the stops and hitting the main Spider sites, here, Facebook, and Mirafiori.com.
Someone else on FB also said since it's leaking outside the center console it would suggest a heater flow switch and/or gasket.

Did you have to pull the upper console out Exit? Where did you get the switch?

I guess I'll be missing out on some good weather driving,

G.

[htchevyii]

You're just going to have to dig in and see what's wrong. It is most likely just the valve, but there's a 50% chance,(from my experience), that the studs on the core will snap off, requiring heater core replacement. If you don't want to miss any driving and aren't too cold, just loop the heater hoses together and drive.

[Exit98]

Someone else on FB also said since it's leaking outside the center console it would suggest a heater flow switch and/or gasket.

Its the heater control valve. Here's a picture:

http://www.autoricambi.us/product/HE6-4 ... rol-Valve/

You can get it from Auto Ricambi or Mark at Allison Automotive. When you push or pull the heater cable (behind the shifter)the cable opens and closes this valve, letting hot coolant run through your heater box. Once you get down there and take a look you'll see what we are talking about. If you just need to replace the valve you don't have to pull the consoles.

ANd as htchevyii says you can just bypass it if you need to. You won't have any heat though.

[giuliot60]

Thanks Doug & Trey.

I may just bypass until I get the new part. It was 73 today, so I had the top down. Supposed to be in or near the 70's until Sunday. Good to know I don't (hopefully) need to pull the console.

So I'm assuming, for the bypass, I just need to get a PVC or metal coupler. What is it 1/2 or 5/8 inch?

G.

[131]

So I'm assuming, for the bypass, I just need to get a PVC or metal coupler. What is it 1/2 or 5/8 inch?

Just get a piece of hose and run it from the head down to the pipe at the back of the block on the exhaust side.

[giuliot60]

Thanks. That could work Mick, but then I'd have to buy a hose instead of a coupler. I think the later would be cheaper, since it will be temporary until I get my part. Which considering the speed at which we get them here in the states, it may be here before I make a decision about bypassing the system.

Does anyone know the inside diameter of the hose before I disconnect them?

[giuliot60]

BYPASS UPDATE: I didn't have a coolant burping "Tee" so I bought one to temporarily bypass the heater core by connecting the feed and return hoses. Once I have the heater valve resolved I'll install it into the return hose.

[Exit98]

That'll work.

[azruss]

To add to your problems, all the antifreeze that leaked out has now soaked thru the carpet and pad and has settled into the edges of the sound proofing. from there, it will do a very efficient job of rusting out your floorboards. pull the edges of the carpet and backing where the floor meets the tranny tunnel and the door tubes and blow it dry with an air gun.

[giuliot60]

That'll work.

Yes Doug, technically speaking. I just tried and I was able to get the heater control valve hose off, but it's really difficult to get to the core hose clamp screw. I have the replacement HCV unit coming in a couple of days, so I decided to wait and replace it without bothering to bypass it. Besides, it's currently drizzling so what's the point. So I'll use it as it was intended.

I then went inside the car and started to remove the HCV nuts. What a pain! The bottom right nut that connects the unit to the heater core is so close to the plastic of the heater unit that it's impossible to get a socket in there, but I cut away at it with a utility knife and was successful. The upper left nut is accessible, but it wasn't coming off that easily so to prevent breaking the stud, it's soaking with some PB Blaster on it.

Someone on mirafiori.com suggested removing the unit from the heater core connection first then pull the HCV and short pipe out (first removing the hose connected in the engine compartment) for easy access to the nuts, but I was able to get the bolt that was closer off with an adjustable and my fingers. It came off too easily so it must not be an original nut and bolt.

Not much I can do until the nut soaks and the valve comes in. Stay tuned.

[giuliot60]

To add to your problems, all the antifreeze that leaked out has now soaked thru the carpet and pad and has settled into the edges of the sound proofing. from there, it will do a very efficient job of rusting out your floorboards. pull the edges of the carpet and backing where the floor meets the tranny tunnel and the door tubes and blow it dry with an air gun.

Thanks Russ. I know. Fortunately, my carpet is not in great shape and the section under foot is missing, I just have mats down. It will be clean up and dried. I'm glad this happened before I replaced the carpet. There is a good side to everything.

[giuliot60]

HEATER CONTROL VALVE REPLACEMENT UPDATE:

Today I replaced my heater control valve. Bought the replacement valve from Auto Ricambi. The replacement valve is not identical to the original, so the short heater pipe needs to be modified, or you can buy a modified short pipe from AR. I recommend the later. Don't ask me why I know.

Also added a coolant "burping" T on the heater core hose, since the coolant was partially drained. Topped her off, burped her several times until I was able to get the fan to come on, let the fan go through 4 cycles, and gave her one more topping.

Everything's working normally, and there doesn't appear to be any leaking.

I'm a happy Spider owner again.