Engine Stall within seconds

[rdavidson52]

Oops! I was just trying to picture the relay, and I think it may have 5 connections.

[rdavidson52]

Where is the multi-relay supposed to be located? The relay I am talking about is pretty small is size, a little over an inch square, right next the coil, mounted on the compartment wall within an inch or so of the top of the wall.

Thanks

[So Cal Mark]

dual relay is under the glove box

[rdavidson52]

Thanks Mark

[rdavidson52]

Getting to the Multi-relay, or ECU was somewhat more difficult on mine as the initial owner had the dealer in Dallas install an A/C system at purchase.

Removed the connector and used a simple, lighted circuit tester. Reading through the posts and notes, I believe I unerstand that 88d provides power directly to the fuel pump and 88y supplies fuel pump feed, at least, that was reading about an '82 system. I am supposing it is the same for the '84 and '85 Spiders.

At any rate, the only pin (pretty small at that!) which showed power was 86a.

Would you think that means the relay is, or has gone, bad?

Thanks,

Robert

[rlux4]

88d is the power to the fuel pump, but the dual relay needs two signals for it to close the relay to that terminal. They come from the ignition switch (one unfused 12V and another fused line. And it gets a signal from the AFM when the flap opens.
Here's a diagnostic for the dual relay if you don't already have one:
http://www.wcmotors.com/personal/Fiat%2 ... agnostics/
I got this from Kelly Dicker (KD) at Wine Country Motors, an all around great guy.
Ron

[rdavidson52]

I had a little time a couple nights ago and went through checking power at the relay again. The other day, I was concerned the single pin showing power seemed pretty low. This time, I wasn't able to get any evidence of power, so, I ordered a new relay. Received notice today it should be delivered from today thru the 18th. Didn't make it today.

[So Cal Mark]

if the power TO the relay seems low, I'd use a voltmeter and ensure you're getting 12v from the ignition switch

[rdavidson52]

Checked the circuit tester bulb and found it is only 1.5V, so I think it may jist provide a low level light.

However, I checked the ohms on the ignition pick up. Apparently, it is supposed to check out at between 700 to 800 ohms, and, this tested to 167 ohms. While performing a few repeated tests to ensure consistent results, after about three tests it started dropping. In a short while it dropped down to zero. I have no doubt it is the original to the car. The internal (of dizzy) wires were shedding their wrapping and the wires are frayed.

I have ordered from IAP a couple of days ago and expect to receive, perhaps by the end of the week. That would be great as my Daughter's party is this Saturday. As a backup, she may have to use the Miata MX-5 I got her for photos with friends.

Thanks for all the input folks!

Robert

[giuliot60]

Hi Robert. I just started having an idle issue after the car was running really well. I had a coolant temperature sensor connector issue that I replaced, but now it starts but doesn't idle well. My plugs were black after I pulled them today. I'm going to replace them and hopefully that will help. But I'm curious to see what is causing your issue, so I'll be following the post.

Good luck.

[rdavidson52]

Daughter's party is over, I'm mostly recovered from over 200 teenagers and the DJ's music system. Got some time this morning and installed a new fuel filter and the ignition pick-up. Had installed a new multi-relay early morning before the party prep.

Started it up, same running issue. There has got to be something simple about this. I had hopes it was a grounding issue, then the relay, then the ignition pick-up.

Just before removing the injectors to be cleaned, it ran. Poorly, because of the gumming up of #3 & #4 injectors. But it took me around a couple of blocks while I tried burning through clogging of the injectors. Put it back together, and this issue of not running after a quick start and running of several seconds, assumed to be a result of a cold start.

Any chance it could be related to the fuel pump? Any other ideas?

Thanks,

Robert

[majicwrench]

Certainly it could be fuel pump. But, this is a huge BUT, if it fails consistantly, why not TEST SOMETHING!!!!!!!!!!!
Hook up fuel pressure gauge and watch pressure as it dies. If pressure stays up, it's not fuel pump.
I have lot of ideas, but ideas don't find issues. Testing does. Test fuel pressure as above. Hook up a timing light and aim it so you can see it when you start car, does light flash as car is dying?? Hook up noid light to one inj terminal and hang it up so you can see it.
keith

[giuliot60]

Hi Robert.

I resolved my issue, mostly, but still need to get her running better. She seems to be running rich, and ay be because of my vacuum advance not working or related to the fact that I still have some of my turbo wiring connected although the turbo was removed. Check my post to see what I did (I did several things) to see if any of what I did helps. It may be your Aux Air Reg. I cleaned mine with carb cleaner then wd40'd it, pulled my idle control adjustment screw, which was very dirt, cleaned it and reset it, plus a sea foam treatment, and a few other things. It seemed to work, but I was basically following the diagnosis procedure (http://www.angelfire.com/wa2/fits/index.html#ljetguide) that someone posted, and Brad Artique's guide, except I didn't have an ohm meter. Essentially what Keith is saying.

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=20467

Good luck.

[majicwrench]

OK, that is not what Keith said. But I will say, It is NOT your AAR. It is NOT your idle control adjustment screw ( not sure just what screw that is) Sea Foam is NOT going to help. None of those things will keep the car from running.
Keith

[giuliot60]

Sorry. What I meant to say is TEST your items like Keith said (he's got a lot more experience than I do).

I started testing items, using the diagnostics guides available, as best I could without an OHM meter, and was able to get my car to idle because it would stall after a while. Not exactly the same issue as Robert's, but with my very limited experience, it seems similar.

The idle speed adjustment screw is right next to the Throttle Control Sensor, opposite the Accelerator Linkage Stop Screw. It won't keep the car from running but it wouldn't hurt to clean it, as it helps with the idle.