Need some diagnosis help!

[ga.spyder]

Hey guys.I have an active thread here on my f.i. issue.Basically,I was running on 3 cylinders and had narrowed it down to a bad #4 injector. http://wwwe.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopi ... =5&t=20384 Thanks for all the helpful feedback.
I changed the offending injector this morning.Definitely a job for someone with smaller arms and hands!The car fired right up,running on 4 cylinders.Yes!! I buttoned it all up and took it for a ride.Spun gravel thru 1st and 2nd gear leaving the driveway,tach right up to 5000.Drove for about 10 minuted ,gassed it in 3rd up a hill and the cylinder kicked out for a moment then came back after I let off.As I kept driving it got worse to where I was on 3 just like before.Same issue,same cylinder.The new(aftermarket,Autozone) injector isnt firing.I have 12 volts at the plug.WTF? Could it be the relays? ECM? It is for sure fuel related ,the ignition and compression check out fine.Suggestions? The new injector looked a little different but it seems to have sealed well.I sprayed ether around and no change in rpm.I am stumped and more than a little bummed.

[So Cal Mark]

I'm betting the connector is faulty

[vandor]

> Could it be the relays? ECM?

No. If either was bad none of the injectors would work.
I could be the wiring or the connector.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks guys .I will look there next.I hadnt even considered the connector.

[bradartigue]

Thanks guys .I will look there next.I hadnt even considered the connector.

Email sent to you -

The Bosch connectors can be had from any Porsche, Saab, VW, BMW dealer or parts place, just tell them it is for an L-Jetronic fuel injector. I'd replace all four (replace the suspect one first and try it out, then do them all, these things tend to wear at the same rate). Also change the temp sensor connector.

If your wires are corroded more than 1/4 inch or so then get the pre-wired type, otherwise get the crimp-in. Pre-wired look better if you heat shrink over them afterwards.

[majicwrench]

ANy parts store should have the connector and pigtail, I can get you the ## in the am if you need it.
Usually you ca wiggle the connector with engine runnign and make it come and go.
Keith

[ga.spyder]

I tried that Keith,and it didnt seem to make any difference.I will see if I can find one locally,and try that.I thought I had it fixed! The car was running great and then all of the sudden,under load,it just kicked out.Has to be something with the current.
Thanks for the email,Brad

[ga.spyder]

Got a pigtail locally.No change.The injector doesnt appear to be firing.The injector I bought looked a lot different than stock,but the seals were in the same basic position.I am wondering about it now.I ordered the proper one from Mark and will go from there.Very,very frustrated and at a loss if that doesnt work.

[majicwrench]

You are changing a LOT of stuff on whims and assumptions. What make you think inj currently not firing?? Did you actually watch old inj out of head to see if it sprayed fuel?? Did you check for power at inj connector before you cut it off?? If you did, did you then make sure it grounds to fire inj?? This is really a simple system, just have to work slow and keep double checking yourself. Don't change parts unless you know they are bad.
We all feel your pain..
Keith

[ga.spyder]

Keith,you are absolutely right.I have been throwing a lot at it.I am frustrated and stumped.Bear in mind this car does track days,auto-x's ,mountain runs,etc...and I have never had a big issue until now.I wanted to rule out ignition and head gasket first,which I did.They seemed more likely than fuel.I think the new injector has quit firing,because I can listen to it with the stethescope.Nothing.The curious part was that after I first intalled it,the car was running good on all four.After a couple miles,under load,I was back on 3.The injector(which I have taken back) looks much different.It did fit into the port but I could pull on it and move it around after it was in.Not a tight fit.I tried to get the old injector to fire using a hose and the cold start valve,Never got it to spray.Bad inj. or bad test setup?...no clue.I have always shown current at the connector,before and after changing it.Could you explain the''make sure it grounds to fire injector'' I didnt do that and dont exactly understand.I felt that getting the proper inj. in there is next. I thank you and everyone for trying to help me get it right.All suggestions are acted upon.I will overcome....eventually!!

[majicwrench]

> Did you check ohms across inj before you took it back?? Did you watch it fire before taking it off??
You should be able to get a good inj to spray, but you need a set=up that will provide pressurized fluid and then power and ground to open injector.
Do me a favor, take the old connector (the one yu cut off) add a good lenght of wire to both terminals, now put an alligator clip, or some way to secure it to battery term, even vise grips. Now secure one wire to battery post, either one. Plug old inj into connector. Now yoiu have one wire hanging. Touch it to other terminal briefly. YOu should hear a tiny click from inj. Now take a hunk of hose that will fit secruely over inj and is long enough to reach your mouth. Now blow. As you touch wire to fire inj, you should be able to blow thru inj. It may blow some fuel, safety glasses, fire ext right?? IF it fails this test, can you access a known good inj and repeat test to verify?
Ground...without reading back, have you used a noid lite to verify current and ground?? ECM/ECU provides ground for injectors, just 12v to connector is not enough.
Not sure just what the fuel rail is like, but at this point I would bet you have three inj installed and one empty port. If that is so, can you briefly turn on fuel pump and make darn sure fuel flows into #4 inj?? FIRE EXTINGUISHER.
When you get new inj, can you plug it into harness and fuel pressure and watch it spray before you install it completely?? Work slowly, verify what you are doing. Hang in there.
keith

[lanciahf]

Craig,

Check your grounds the Bosch Injection provides a steady 12 volts to the components but switched them on and off via a ground.

Simple test on #4 injector find which side is hot, use a paper clip and provide a ground to the other side, but only momentarily, the injector should click.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks guys.I will keep at it.I am heading out of town, for the weekend ,after work tomorrow.The new injector will be here by then,and I will start in on the car Monday.I will try all these tests to verify.I took back the new injector,so I dont have it and I didnt check the ohms...I should have .I also havent checked with a noid light,but I can borrow one.The grounds are something I havent really given any thought.I will now!